Just got a new pair of boots, and I'm curious what the experts have to say as to what the best leather dressing is. I ask because I've been told that some of the water proofings I've used over the years may actually be harmful to the leather. While we are on the topic of leather dressings I would welcome opinions on what is best for other leather goods...quivers, arm guards, etc. I am especially interested in the opinions of those who earn a living working with/making leather products.
Thanks in advance!
Kevin

I have had them all and used them all. In my experienced opinion, Obenauf's lasts the longest and works the best in every way. I think Pitch blend is good and sno seal is also good but not quite as good as the Obenauf's.

I've always been a Pitch blend fan. Havent tried Obenaufs yet......

Montana Pitch Blend...used it when it first hit the market, sold it here when I had the shop open and still apply 3 coats every year to my backquivers and boots.

Not sure if looking for a water proofing blend or not, but I have started steaming leather baseball gloves to aide in breaking in a glove properly for youth baseball players.  Process basically involves steaming the glove in a hot dog bun steamer at 150 degrees for 3-5 minutes.  I use a product called Mizuno Magic Soft to treat the gloves with prior and post steaming.  I know this is not a traditional leather treatment but it is a great treatment to breakin and form leather products just as you want in a short amount of time.  I could see if being useful for arm guards, possbily some foot wear etc.  The main ingredient in the magic soft is liquid parafin.

Your question is a good one and comes up often. You named off several items you are looking to treat. It does not help much because I have no idea what kind of leather they are made from? The type of leather and what kind of use and abuse it gets dictates the treatment.

Most boots like Kennetrek, Lowas or any boot that has a one piece sole and rand can not be treated as boot with a stitched on sole like Whites and the old Danners. Kennetrek type boots can not be heavily greased with animal fat based products or they will delaminate. Vegtable grade dressings are the only way to go. I use olive oil on my Kennnetreks and then seal with Dry Boot which has a cranuba wax in it that lasts a long time. What ever you use it should always be topped of with a sealer to keep the good stuff in and the bad stuff out.

I personally do not use any pine pitch products. Have you ever got pine sap on your hands? Did you like it did it feel good? Its extremly sticky comes to the surface of your leather with heat and friction and holds dirt. If you attract dirt and grit it is like sand paper to your leather. I have found it very hard to remove the old pine residue when it is time to clean my leather. I have seen in high friction areas like where the tounge and lace folds on boots just get caked with the pitch and dirt and sand away the leather. You almost have to scrap it to get it off.

Any wax or pitch in my oppinion on a glove or tab will not aid in smothness but inhibit it. We use a blend of both in hand stiching to lock stitches. When the friction of the thread being pulled heats it up it gets sticky and locks the tread. When you have string slipping across something waxed it will heat it up and cause a stick grippy substance.

If it is veg tanned leather like my armguards oil and a sealant is all that is needed. Most greases are only used on heavy use gear that see a lot of dirt and water. Getting boots wet and then drying them leaches a lot of the nutriants out of leather and grease tend to last longer.

I have a cabinet full of product for leather treatment. They all get used but there really is not one product good for every situation.

Hope this helps. I will check back and see if I can help more.

Scott

I use mostly olive oil on my leather goods. Keeps our saddles and horse tack in good shape.

i made my too-stiff backquiver into a soft, back-conforming beauty with liberal, repeated paintbrushings of canola oil.

i bet it's got at least a cup in it.  

snoseal for boots.

joe

I like Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative (LP)

Thanks to all for the good insights and ideas. It is most appreciated.
Scott, I especially appreciate the in-depth detail of your post.
Again, thanks to all.
Kevin

I tried the Obenhuafs and while it did seem to work, it had a definite, strong fuel smell.  Three or four months after applying, I could still smell my boots from several feet away.  Can't imagine hunting with them.  I tried it out on a heavily worn pair of leather hiking boots that I did not use for hunting.  I have not found one yet that has no scent, but I have not looked lately for one that is scent free.

My favorites are snow seal (non-Goretex boot) or silicon oil.  The snow seal works best if you heat your boots with a hair dryer or a very low setting in the oven.  Once the leather is warm, apply the snowsweal.  Let it soak in and repeat.

The down side of some leather treatments as I understand is they can reduce the effectiveness of Goretex (or other water proof liners) by restricting flow of moisture by sealing off pores in leather.  This is likely more an issue with wax-based products.  Any one out there with a little more knowledge on the issue?

Bowslinger...

Which Obenauf product did you try?

I've used the Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative.

I've thought about buying some of their other stuff...don't really want to buy something that smelled too bad.

Thanks.

There are 2 products out there by a legendary saddle maker from Idaho called Ray Holes Saddle Butter and Dry Boot. Ray developed this product over 50 years ago because he felt there was nothing on the market that was any good. He sold this product in the west mainly to cowboys, loggers and outdoorsmen. It is hard to find in any stores in the east and you have to look in a tack store or saddle shop to find it. I do carry it and bring it to shows.

Saddle Butter is similar to other greases but contains no synthetics, mineral oils, pine pitch or other chemicals. It contains vegtable and pure neetsfoot oils and waxes. Its smell is minimal in the can and once applied disapears. It can be used on all boots but must be applied lightly on boots with soles that are only glued like Kennetrek boots. It penetrates well and gives a great feel to the leather.

I always top coat with the Dri Boot. Its smell is also minimal with disapering after applied.  This seals your conditioner and keeps the water from penetrateing and leaching your oils out. If I put 2 coats on I can get through a hard season of hunting and never have to retreat my boots. The main ingredient that sets this product apart is the carnauba wax which is a expsipve hard wax. I use a hairdryer to work it in and then when it cools it solidifies. It repels water and does not atract dirt. It is the best I have found.

As far as gortex type materials from talking to boot companies that use it they are more concerned with the oils that penetrate leather and get into the gortex itself. If the lether is to heavily oiled it will penetrate to lineings and basicly ruin them. My therory on breathabilty of gortex is inactive it may keep up. Active there is no way presperation can get through a layer of gortex and the leather or cordura and keep you completly dry. Even untreated lether will not let all the heat and sweat just pas through. I think a lot of people over do the amount of grease they use. Sometimes more is not always the best. If you have to much grease and your boots do get wet which they will. It is much harder to dry them out.

I realy think the main deal that is often left out is a sealent. No matter what I build and how I oil it it gets a sealer of some sort. It is the only way to totaly protect leather. The main reason for cold feat in leather boots even if only slightly damp is from evaporation. As soon as your leather has moisture in it and it starts to dry out evaporation takes place and basicly puts your foot in a refridgerator. When I first figured out this was happening I googeled it to see if I was correct. I found the British did a big study about it during WW2. Men basicly getting hypothermia from damp leather boots and it was from evaporation. I think this is a little known fact in the outdoor world.

Hope this helps Scott

I was into military leather from different wars and the product recommended by museums was Pecard's Leather Dressing. I used that on valuable belts and leather products.

Another product I used on my LL Bean boots for the last 35 years was Sno Seal. The bottoms disintigrated before the leather tops did.

I use a $1 wax toilet ring or a can of Automotive silicon , they will stain your boots a different colour but are the best lasting and most water proof options.  The toilet ring wax you put on with a heat gun to melt it into the leather.  If you want more info PM me.

Scott, thanks for the additonal info. The Ray Holes products sound interesting. Here is a general observation as I read the different posts. There are actually two steps we are talking about here; preserving the leather, and water proofing it. I guess I've always known that, but never given it much thought.
Everyone's thoughts are much appreciated on this topic!
Thanks.
Kevin

Kevin--I'd say there are 3 criteria, not 2...You can have well preserved leather that is as waterproof as leather will get, but if your boots spook game, you may as well be a hiker.

Montana Pitch Blend not only doesn't spook game, they seem to like it...From a tree stand, I've watched them cross my back trail many times and, believe me, it evokes only mild, momentary curiosity.

QuoteOriginally posted by Smilingg:
Kevin--I'd say there are 3 criteria, not 2...You can have well preserved leather that is as waterproof as leather will get, but if your boots spook game, you may as well be a hiker.

Montana Pitch Blend not only doesn't spook game, they seem to like it...From a tree stand, I've watched them cross my back trail many times and, believe me, it evokes only mild, momentary curiosity.

Interesting observation,...thanks for sharing.

There used to be a product called Finlans's Bear Grease (made in the USA by the way), but I have not seen it in a long time. If it is still available, it would also be a good choice.