I just picked up some new Zwickey Black Diamond 2 blade broadheads from a fellow Tradganger.  What angle is the Zwickey factory grind supposed to be?  I'll be using my Lansky sharpening kit, and am debating between 25 and 30 degrees. What angle do you fellas use?

25 should be about right.Black the edge with a marking pen and you will be able to see for sure,once you apply the stone.

I put mine as flat as I can get them. I don't use the lansky guides/jig at all, only the stones. This gets them perfectly shaving sharp. If you need to touch up whilst hunting its also easy to do with any flat stone.

I modify the factory bevel as I feel it's too steep. A good quality file at an angle that just hit the ferrule of the head works for me

Need to work the triple laminate near the tip down with a file (to save on your Lansky stones).  I believe the standard bevel on a Zwickey double bevel is 22 1/2 degrees on a side.

30 degrees is too wide.  Although it can get the head very sharp, you are hindering yourself in trying to achieve "razor" sharpness.

Listen to Jerry (Orion).  The fronts need more work due to the added thickness.

If you have the tools already available, you can cobble up a Lansky grinder, using a Lansky jig to hold the heads as you lay them on a belt sander to develop the starting angle.  It is quicker, but you need to be very careful.
ChuckC

I tried 25 degrees and the heads just wouldn't get shaving sharp. I'm going to try 20 degrees and see what happens.

With the Tru angle system you get a scaring sharp heads in 3 steps at the proper 25° angle.
Also "The Block" is a valid and fast similar system,you makes 2 side for time.

X2 on the Tru Angle system.

If 25 didn't work,I suspect you may not have stayed with the coarsest stone long enough.You have to get the entire edge sharp,full length,with the coarsest stone before moving to the next.

I found 4 Zwickeys here that still had the factory grind and they are measuring 25 degrees.I really thing 20 is to sharp an angle and may lead to a weaker edge.For sure,it will take longer as you are going to take 5 degrees of metal off.

Again,blacken the ground edge before you start and you can see exactly what is happening as soon as you hit a few strokes with the stone.None of those sharpener angles are precisely as marked as different blade widths change the angle slightly.You may just have to stay on the coarse stone longer to get the bevel angle matched to your sharpener.

I'm positive you can get it done with the Lansky if you stick with it.After you get the angle set for your sharpener,they will be a snap to resharpen in the future.Good luck with it.

Mark the edge w/black so you can see. Too fine an angle can make the edge easy to bend & roll which only means it may dull faster. But, you can get the head hair popping sharp at a fine angle.

"Hair Popping Sharp" is what you;re after just to prove you can sharpen. Then, it's only a matter of adjusting the angle using the same process. Suggest 25 degrees is fine for razor edge & longevity. Decide for yourself.

It is NOT necessary to bear down applying pressure. Let the stones do their work in short order. *This is the exact reason you apply black to the edge. When you see the black removed all the way to the edge, the burr is created & has turned under. Flip to the other side & repeat.

BUT, you'll always have a burr that will need attention in one way or another. Ideally, if your steel is real good, you can break off the burr with a leather strap hone or cotton wheel w/polish compound. If not, you'll need to straighten it best you can with the strap or a sharpening steel (micro-fine).

Go to the KME website where you;ll find burr removal instructions. If not, call Ron. He is THE EXPERT at removing the fine burr period! He'll help you no matter what system you have. *Don't tell anybody. I'll help if I can. Sharpened surgical instruments since 1993. I'm still learning. Good luck.

One more suggestion. These edges are easy to see under a 40x scope. I bought one at Radio Shack. You can make one if you have optics laying around. Get something with a wider field of view if you can. You can actually see the edge uneven & rolled which will explain a lot. After sharpening, it will be straight & even.

I agree with the True Angle comments.  However, I remember reading some time ago that the bevel it uses is 22 1/2 degrees.  Can't prove it though. My memory may be faulty and their web site doesn't indicate. Not much difference regardless.