Anybody shot a really old osage selfbow?Do they make them today with glass?If yes I mean if anybody has shot one ALL WOOD,no glass.
How do they feel?Accuracy,vibration etc.How much would they worth?

Also I believe that every selfbow is made for a specific draw length and if you draw it more it will break right?So how will I know an old selfbow with no markings for what draw length was made for?I'd really like to take a deer with a bow that varries some history...

The term selfbow means all-wood, no glass, or other backing material. As far as old ones, many pre-fiberglass era (WWII) are still in shooting condition. Many folks have osage bows over 20 years old that are their main hunitng bow still today.

I will add that a selfbow is harder to shoot than a glass laminated bow, seldom forgiving of form errors, may have tooth jarring hand shock or may be smooth as silk, may spit an arrow out like a laser beam or send an arrow down range with a porpoising flight that is slower than molasses.

Every selfbow is different, the makers experience and design play into whether the bow is a winner or looser. Lots of selfbow losers out there.

Eric hit that one on the head....  it can be frustrating for the builder at times but Ohhhhhhhhhh so sweet when it all comes together in a great shooter      

One of my best looking bows rattles my teeth with every shot on the other hand I've got a stick that looks like junk wood that is smooth a silk and shoots lightout????.....get yourself a seasoned stave, hop over to the bowyers bench and find all the help you need to build one.....  it's an experience every Traditional shooter should have.

Every situation (and "old" bow) is different.  Myself....I would hesitate to use an old bow, especially not knowing the history, intended use, amount of use, intended draw length, etc. - especially not "knowing" a whole lot about them as seems to be your case right now.   Have it inspected by someone who does know.   Bows do "age", and some not so good, depending on how it was stored, and various other factors.   A lot of unknowns here.   Just my 2 cents, but I would make the "old" one a wallhanger, and search out a "newer" osage selfbow, if that is what you desire to try out....or better yet build one yourself.    Lot's of folks "try" them, and find out it's not their cup of tea, then are ready to pass them on.   Better safe than sorry.    

BTW, a good rule of thumb, for selfbows or all-wood bows regarding draw length, is that un-backed bows generally are made for at least twice the drawlenght, plus 10 percent, as a minimum.   So for example, if you draw 28 inches, double that would be 56....add in 6 inches and you are looking at a 62 inch bow.    This is a general guideline, but a good starting point.

Eric, If you have the chance to shoot a selfbow off the knuckles, it will be a fun experience and you will get a new respect for those who choose to shoot that way.

I would echo it is not just the shooting and hunting with them that is what's appealing; making them is also where it is at! It is not that hard to learn (but it takes a lifetime to perfect) and does not need a lot of expensive tools. My son and I both learned to make bows and have made some excellent ones with hand tools alone, but more importantly it has been a great father-son activity that I would not trade.

The first doe I took with an osage selfbow I made (along with the string and the arrow too) was the most rewarding game animal I've ever taken.

Trad gang used to be filled with great selfbow hunting stories and I was determined to fill a tag with mine.  It took me two seasons to do it after completing the bow. but was well worth the journey.

I think it's best to know the bowyer and the tillered draw length on a selfbow built by someone else. I've been fortunate to own some nice ones by Mickey Lotz, Dan Gren aka Dano, Jim Fetrow and JD Jones.  Given the opportunity I also wouldn't hesitate to hunt with a bow from Mark Baker or Eric Krewson. I need to thank Eric and John "Hunger Games" Scifres for all the instruction they have unknowingly given me over the years.

I would also like to publicly thanks Eric for all the good advice he gave me through pm.I ve got my eyes on this really old selfbow that I want to bring back to life.Hope I do not throw my money for a wallhanger..

I ruined an old school bow - was probably meant for a 26" draw and at least 30 years old. I found myself with a 2-piece bow unintentionally. I believe it was yew, rather than osage.

As for shooting off my knuckle, I've been doing that with my right-handed bows trying out "lefty" shooting. Expected my hand to be cut to shreds by the fletching glue, but I don't have a mark on my hand. Really awkward, but the sight picture is wonderful. Who says you can't teach an old f*** - I mean old dog , new tricks.

These kinds of threads just feed my soul.  Not to hi-jack your thread Christos, but I have a question for the elders...Does sinew backing negate an all wood bow from being considered a selfbow?

Respectfully submitted,

 

In my opinion a sinew backed bow is just that, a backed bow.
Doesn't mean anything except maybe at some shoots. Usually classified as a self bow.

On the old bow, if you get it bring it along slow. Don't just yank it back to full draw. Pull it a little at a time exercising it to full draw over many, maybe 30or40 short pulls. Then you've given it the best chance to survive.
Ron

Does the rule 8grains per pound minimum applies at these old selfbows as well or you can get away with less?

A sinew backed bow is still considered a self bow. You will want to shoot a heavy arrow out of a self bow, they like heavy arrows. A properly made self bow will have no hand shock and be fairly fast. I leave a lot of wood on the handle to eliminate the hand shock. They will also be deadly quiet.  Out to twenty yards I shoot my self bows better than my other bows.

I saved this old osage bow from a fate worst than death 32 years ago. It was standing in the corner of a friends basement, the bottom limb tip had at one time been in about 2" of water and the rawhide backing had lifted and curled. I cut off a few inches of the old rawhide and spliced in a new piece. The bow is a Ben Pearson probably made sometime in the 40's. It has been spliced from a pair of billets. the bow is 64" and pulls 60#@ 28". I've shot it a lot over the years and it's still serviceable. It's an amazing bow, smooth drawing, no hand shock, very quiet and it returns to straight after it's been unstrung.