I have been struggling to get the arrows tuned for my bow.  I find that, while I can shoot a good group, I can't distinguish between week and stiff arrows.  As stated in previous posts I'm shooting a Samick Sage 45lb. @ 28",  Which I measured to be ~52-54lb. at my 30.5" draw. I currently have two sets of arrows, CX Heritage 150's and 250's.  I have point weight all the way to 300 grns., and the shafts are all full length. The bow is strung with an 8 strand D-10 string with two sets of string leaches on it.

I thought I was settled in on 175 grain point weight, but on a whim I tried some 200 grain point weight.  No change in grouping, just slightly lower.  So I went to 225, same thing.  So I wanted to go to the extreme and slapped on some 300 grain points.  I was really looking to see jacked up bare shaft flight, but instead I saw perfect flight.  In fact my first two shots 1 bs the other fletched were touching.  The next two wen just above.  I did notice some tail right on the BS arrows with 175 on them. Can anyone help?  Better yet, anyone in the CSRA/Augusta, GA area have a little time to tell me what I'm doing wrong?  I would be happy to buy you lunch and a beer if you could spare the time.

Thanks,

Chip

With an offer like that, I can't see you waiting long for an offer of help. Can't afford the air fare and I'm too new to archery to offer myself  

I'm not really a huge fan of bareshafting, but I believe you should be looking for orientation of the shaft (i.e. tailing left or right) not the overall grouping.  Shafts with tails to the left indicate weak spine (for a RH shooter), tailing to the right indicate stiff spine.  Also,  a center-shot bow will be much less sensitive to spine.  I don't know if your bow is center-shot or not, but my guess is that it is...

If it were me I wouldn't sweat it too much.  If you get good arrow flight, you're pretty much set.  Plus it sounds like you can use whatever point weight you like, which gives you much more flexibility.

I hope that helps a little.  I'm sure you'll better advice from others...

I am a fan of bare shafting.  When I have an arrow that is to stiff or weak it is pretty apparent.  If you arrows are grouping with bare and fletched you should be good.  How far are you from the target?  If you are close they won't have time to really show a problem.  I bare shaft at around twenty yards.  If your form is not good enough yet to allow a good group at twenty, use the arrows you have (all same length, spine and point weight).  Practice with those until you become consistant enough to get a reasonable group at 20.  Then try to bare shaft again.  Bare shafting is most important to have your arrows tuned for broadheads, so they hit the same place your field points do.

You are doing just fine. If the heavy tipped arrows appear to be flying fine bare then put feathers on a couple and see what you find. In my experience the heavy tipped carbons all fly good unless you are way out of spine range of bow. I shoot 300 up front on all of my carbons.

Theoretically, there is one exact perfect arrow weight/weight distribution for each bow, but most bows will shoot well a fairly good range of arrow weights/weight distributions.  I think we sometimes get our knickers in a bundle over minute differences that have no practical effect.  In short, it's not at all unusual that your bow would shoot several arrows well.  Rather than thinking you're doing something wrong, be happy.  

If the 300 grains up front is what is flying best then go fletch them shafts and shoot em! I agree with Orion, most bows will shoot a pretty wide range of spined shafts.

Thanks, guys.  one other question if I may.  As stated above I have a 30.5 inch draw.  I have noticed after shooting my index finger hurts (the side next to the arrow nock (shooting split finger).  I have also developed a callus on my ring finger.  I think that the index finger might indicate pinching on the draw. I'm shooting a cordovan tab with spacer.  what else can I do to help with this?  Should I consider shooting 3 under?  I think the pinching might be causing some false indicators when shooting bare shafts.

Thanks again,

Chip

I would not worry to much about the callus. I have one too. May I ask what you have done with your shelf? If I remember correctly the Sage has a flat shelf.

You may consider putting a pivot point under the side plate and the base. This will help with the false indications as the arrow will be making contact in a smaller area.

This can be done wwith small pieces of leather under your shelf material and side plate. I reccomend putting straight above the deepest part of the grip.

I'm actually using a nap center rest flipper.

QuoteOriginally posted by The_Count:
I'm actually using a nap center rest flipper.

Well that should work well. Consentrate on your alingment make sure your string pulling elbow gets behind you and straight line though the arrow. That will help with a cleaner release.

Thanks for the suggestions.