Ok, I HAVE searched, and looked at a LOT of threads here concerning carbon spine, and I think I'll be in the ballpark here, but feedback is still nice...        

I just bought a 64" 52@28 Griffin longbow from TG'r Sean Boyer. Sean emailed me today, and said its in the mail.    

Also, I noticed the CE Heritage 250 diameter is listed as 0.305. Anyone use an aluminum footing, or is it even necessary? I've seen several users post and say they're very durable, but a 1-2" foot couldn't hurt... What shaft size for a footing, if anyone does it?

Hmmmm...if .305 is correct, there wouldn't be an easton shaft big enough to foot with, would there? Or, am I mixed up? (that's always an option)

When I went to the CE Spine Chart, it came up Heritage 250 for 46-51 and 52-57# draw weights.  When I entered the figures to get to that chart, using the only option for a stickbow, recurve, it came up add 7# to your draw weight to enter the chart.  That would make your adjusted draw weight 57#.  It would put you right where you need to be with the CE 250.

Insofar as a footing goes, a 2512 would have a .366" inside diameter.  A 2412 would have a .351 inside diameter.  A 2312 would have a .335 inside diameter.  A 2213 would have an inside diameter of .318.  A 2215 would have an ID of .314.  A 2217 would have an ID of .310.  We're getting close to the .305, so I'll leave it to you to keep searching.  Actually, the 2217 would probably be more than addequate.  I couldn't quit, so a 2219 should work great with an ID of .30575.

Bill

A 2216 fits the heritage 250 perfectly.

I shoot a similar #bow although mine is a recurve(52# ChekMate) and shoot the 150's. I shoot them 30 inches in length with standard inserts and 125gr points. They fly great and weigh in at 498gr. I would think that the 250's would be a bit stiff for your setup. This being said, I would get a couple of each(150s and 250s) and try them before buying a whole dozen.

My rule of thumb on spine charts is that if you are on the bubble between two shafts, go with the weaker shaft. Unless you like shooting a whole lot of weight up front.

Mark

Curt, I can without a doubt say the 250s will not work and the 150s will but ya will need to leave them a tad long at least 29.5"s. You will also need at least 225 grains up front for them to fly well from that bow. I shoot the 150s out of a very high performance recurve cut past center and I shoot them at 29.5"s and 175 grains up front and my bow is 52#s at 28"s and I draw 28.5"s, so close to 54#s. I had a Shrew very simalar to your bow and what I suggested above will be very darn close. Shawn

I should also say that pseman is incorrect on arrow weight they are 10gpi. so that is 300 for shaft 125 for head is 425 and feather,nock and insert and a wrap would weight no more than 50 grains and that would be a lot for 475. Shawn

Ah, good info...was hoping you'd see this thread.

Thanks Shawn

And thanks to everyone else also.

Curtis

Curtis, Shawn is correct on my arrow weight they are only 475gr. What was I thinking when I weighed them on a digital scale instead of just aking him what they weighed. I have another friend who shoots them at 31" without arrow wraps and his scale is wrong also because it said that his were an even 500gr(different scales).
Also, my arrows don't fly good either because I don't have enough weight up front. They wobble all over the place.

For future reference, you should not listen to anything I might tell you about arrows. Especially if they are carbon arrows.

 :rolleyes:  

Mark

Curtis,

I would say, without hesitation, your set-up is IDEAL for the 150's. The 250's will be too stiff, unless you load them upfront with a TON of extra weight. Have confidence in the 150's. You should be able to shoot just about any broadhead on the market ranging from 125 grains to almost 200 grains and tweak the arrows to get perfect flight. I shoot 50# @ 28", arrows cut to 28 1/2" LOA and get great flight from 150 Woodsmans, as well as Zwickey's, 125 grain Magnus, etc. With a shorter arrow like you may have, the 250's will just frustrate you. Just my $.02. You'll likely get a few more opinions. But, if the 150's don't fly like darts I'LL BUY THEM FROM YOU!  

I agree, the 150s are what you need.

Curtis, disregard my second post. Shoulda kept my mouth shut on that one. PM sent.

Mark

150's,  I tried the 250's out of my Predator 53# @ 28  had 300 grains up front and they were still a little stiff at 30".  They were okay at full length but that seemed cumbersome. 150's in the same setup with 200 grains up front are like darts, 12% FOC. DD

Flatshooter has some listed in the classifieds right now that are 29" along with some beer cans. DD

Hehe...I was really stuck on the beer cans for about 5 minutes. Time to sharpen the old blades. ;p

QuoteOriginally posted by pseman:
I have another friend who shoots them at 31" without arrow wraps and his scale is wrong also because it said that his were an even 500gr(different scales).

Wait a minute???  My scales are wrong???  Actually my shafts are 31.5" (not that the 1/2" matters much).  Just weighed mine on my digital scales and they weigh 500gr.  On my Lyman balance beam scale they weigh 504gr.  31.5" shaft to BOP, aluminum insert, 125gr FP, 3 4" feathers.

I'm scratching my head too, if they are 10gpi this does'nt add up.  :confused:

I shoot a 53# @ 28", my draw is 27". I shoot CX 150's cut to 29 1/2" with 260 gr. upfront and they shoot very well.