As has been said, go with O.L. Adcock's method. Trying to tune based on how the bareshaft flies and impacts the target is next to impossible. If your bare shafts group together with your fletched arrows then you are in tune. The final test is to see if your broadheads and field tips group together. If they group together then don't change anything. As far as your fletched arrows fish tailing. It could be your release. Even a perfectly tuned shaft will wobble some if you don't have a decent release. My release is far from perfect but it is pretty good, but when I do occassionally get a bad release I sometimes see a tiny wobble in flight.

Thanks for the help guys..I am going to try shooting some broadheads at 10 yards tomorrow (the maximum range Id shoot at a turkey) and see what happens..

Just out of curiosity, is broadhead tuning the same as bare-shaft tuning?  If the BH hits left, its too stiff, and vice-versa, and if the broadhead hits high, my nock is too low?

Are you right handed?

QuoteOriginally posted by JBridegroom22:
Are you right handed?

Yes

If your arrow hits left the spine is too light. Adding more weight up front is doing the opposite of what you want. Less weight makes a stiffer spine. Just finished bare shafting my arrows yesterday. Take your time.

500s might be too stiff for #42. papertuning worked for me. Look up paper tuning or bareshafting on YouTube and see if that helps. Hopefully it doesn't confuse you more. Good luck.

QuoteOriginally posted by JBridegroom22:
If your arrow hits left the spine is too light. Adding more weight up front is doing the opposite of what you want. Less weight makes a stiffer spine. Just finished bare shafting my arrows yesterday. Take your time.

The OL tuning says if my bareshaft hits left, my spine is too stiff...or are you talking about if my BH hits left?  Im confused, sorry..

I need to find a .600 arrow to try out to see if thats my problem..My shop didnt have any.

If you are right handed and your bare shafts or broadheads group to the left of your field points than you are too stiff. If you are left handed than stiff shafts would impact to the right of your field tips. I think the 500 spine will work. Don't cut more than 1/8" off at a time and use a heavy point.

Actually,OL says it doesn't matter how well you group.You just shoot bare shaft and fletched and average the results.You can't do it with one group.

If you can move back to 15 yds or whatever,it will help.

The good thing about trying to make your existing .500's work,is,that if you improve form and increase draw length later,you can always reduce point weight to get the right tune.if you go to .600's and a 125 gr head,and later increase draw length,reducing head weight really compromises your choices in broadheads.

Either way,I would want to tune those .500's since you have them.Once you see exactly what they need foe point weight and what their overall weight is,you can make a rational decision as to whether you need .500's or .600's.

Read OL's tuning information,thoroughly.

I didn't use ol's tuning information. It contradicted other things that I read which led to more confusion. I am new at this and am going to be going against what most people are telling you. I papertuned my bareshafts till they flew straight. It worked for me but it's going against what you are being told from most people so I am going to quit confusing you and stop commenting. Good luck. Hope you figure something out soon.
    Josh

Two things come to mind. One is that I find it much more difficult to get perfect bare shaft results shooting off the shelf. But, to me, it is worth the effort. Second, last Spring I tore the rotator cuff in my  bow shoulder. I didn't shoot as much and over time I lost strength. As a result my shooting form became inconsistent. This winter I started to work out using heavier weights and focused on getting the shooting muscles back to where my form, for at least 3 shots, was "normal" for me. Up until then all my efforts at tuning two new bows with bare shafts left me with headaches, as well. For me it was a simple matter of form and strength. In addition, I would say in your case, a lighter spine arrow is called for.  I have also found tuning to be a non static thing. As your tuning and shooting skills get better you will probably find that over time  you will be making small adjustments as things come together. It's really a process and my injury this year reminded me of that. For  now, find a light spine shaft and work on shooting form so you are shooting consistent groups. Once you get more comfortable with your form things will start to fall  into place. That has been my experience.

In my experience...

You CAN have two arrows rigged differently, but to the same dynamic spine in Stu's Calc and they will shoot differently out of your bow.

If you can see your fletched arrows jump, you definitely aren't there yet.

You may save yourself some time by first trying to rig up an arrow that will prove to be too weak in spine and work from there. IMO it's easy to find arrows that are too stiff.

Yes the charts can be that far off. I can shoot .500 spine arrows out of my bow 57@29, and keep my arrows over 30" long with 125's and 50 gr inserts. I can't shoot GT 3555's like that because my gpp would be too light, but they would fly like darts. I shoot cx 150's now. Way less spine than the cal. and charts call for.

And it's easier to work with arrow length rather than point weight, and they don't have exactly the same effect.

QuoteOriginally posted by JimB:
The good thing about trying to make your existing .500's work,is,that if you improve form and increase draw length later,you can always reduce point weight to get the right tune.if you go to .600's and a 125 gr head,and later increase draw length,reducing head weight really compromises your choices in broadheads.

Just out of curiosity, how does my draw length increase if I improve my form?  I dont understand..


Also, I tried shooting my recurve today with the 125gr Bullheads I want to try to kill a turkey with this season, and they flew just fine at close range - nothing erratic anyway.  I just gotta practice a little more so I can really start stacking them up at 10 yards, and I should be good to go!  I'll figure the rest of the tuning part out later..