i baught a dozen somewhat expensive shafts that were a bit to stiff and i had to go up in point weight to get a good bare shaft tune and have about a 23% front of center weight. i am not to great of a shot but am wondering if this is to high foc for good accuracy. thanks for any info!

Nope, if they are carbon ya can go even higher. It has also been proven higher FOC improves accuracy. Shawn

Nope, and high FOC also helps with penetration.

No such thing as too high...good stuff starts happening. I just made some up that are 17% without a point! About 27% with....O.L.

Just about right.

When someone tells you it's to much, just show them how they fly!!!and Hit!!!!!!!!

I agree with all above, but am curious as to what sort of shaft system you have that would provide that much FoC. Certainly not wood, unless they're footed with ironwood! Extreme FoC only becomes a negative to arrow flight once you're out beyond any reasonable trad instinctive range. Since some of the really heavy heads are big as spear points, the can windplane and be very hard to tune. But "extreme" FoC, like all before have testified, is not at all extreme and a purely good thing. If they don't fly, it's likely the head size or shape, not the FoC. dave

Dave I have shot carbon withas much as 425 grains up front, like the Carbonwwod 5000 cut to 29"s out of my 60# recurves. Shawn

i have 31.5" easton epic 400s with 3, 5" feathers, a wrap, and the hp insert with a 200 gr head.  i may go with a 250 as soon as they come in the mail.... the heads are easy to make when you use glue on heads with scew in adapters.  for exapmle if i use 250s, i can use a 125 gr screw on steel adapter and a 125 woodsmen head and i have a head that is normal size with abnormal hittin' power! when using 75-125 gr adapters and 100-190gr heads, you can make any weight head.

I'm running Sitkas with internal brass footing, 125 steel bh adapter and 160 heads. Yep, wood is hard to do but can be done, first start with footed shafts with something heavy. I've got some footed with cocobolo and they're too pretty to shoot...Taper them in the back and you can make a drilling jig to drill a 1/8" or 3/16" about 2" into the tip and glue in aluminum, brass, steel, or even tungsten (thanks Pete), then taper as normal. Using those tricks you can get wood arrows in the 18-20% range. Folks talk about all the reasons tapered shafts seem to shoot well, I'm convinved it's the better FOC..O.L.

With carbons, I think 20% is a good start, 25% is on the right track, and 30% isn't too much.

Some believe that those high FOCs make non-carbons "work too much."  Maybe so; I don't know.  I've never added as much point weight to wood -- never had to.  I shoot some aluminiums from some bows in the 20-25% range.  But carbons really settle down when you load up the point weight.

One thing I want to add: for me, carbons seem to fly better when they're about 1-1/2" or 2" longer than what your would wooden field-pointed shafts would be.