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Flu Flus

Started by wisconsinteacher, January 30, 2012, 09:28:00 PM

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wisconsinteacher

Well I am trying to make some spiral flu flu's and used Monkey Grip universal cement.  I put it on the shaft and feather.  From there I waited for it to dry 20 minues and then tried to wrap the feather.  It did not stay at all.  I put some fletch tape on one and tried that.  I am going to let it set up all night and see what happens in the morning.  Any tips or advice?  PLEASE!!!

lpcjon2

I used fletch tight and a small spring clamp and glued at least 1/2" and let it dry overnight. best bet is to take a clamp and attach it to the shaft(no glue) and wrap it around and clamp the bottom and let it sit over night(build up a curled memory) that should make wrapping it easier.

 When you glue the wraps do about 2" at a time and use pins or clamps to hold as you go.it can get frustrating.

 And I dont do the wrap any more, I just put the full length feather centered in the clamp and cut both ends off and glue them like regular fletchings and let them be they work great also.
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

lpcjon2

And Guru has a spiral Flu How to in the How to section on the main page.
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

Bud B.

Make sure the shaft is oil free.

I usually snip some of the fletching away from the quill at both ends and start fletching to the arrow at the top near the nock. I use super glue that dries fast to get it to set quickly. I then use a clothespin to keep it in place until completely dry. Sometimes the clothes pins sticks, but no big deal.

After the attached tip is dried to the shaft I then wrap it with cotton string and spread super glue on the thread for making sure it stays put.

I then use Duco along the back of the quill and then wrap. I clothes pin off the base of the feather. After a complete dry I then file or sand the last part of the quill tip. Then drop some Duco to smooth out the final seal.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Bldtrailer

Use fletching tape and make sure you peel all the quill off then use a cloths pin to hold the ends applying  fletch tight/or super glue (put plastic over the cloths pin to prevent it from sticking) to keep the ends from peeling.
As we get older our bow weight goes down and our body weight goes up, One of Lifes little jokes.
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Wounded Warriors

karrow

i use super glue on mine as well and clothes pin just like Bud B. start at the nock and work down the shaft. just start wrapping and youll catch on quick.
Kevin Day

Rob DiStefano

never liked those spiral fletched fluflu's, prefer a 6 fletch w/4" or 5" full length feathers, slight offset - or full helical for really slowing down the flight.

 
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

stringstretcher

Take and put fletch tape, ON YOUR ARROW FIRST, in the spiral that you want and spacing. Get the quill of the feather down as thin as you can, peel the backing off of the tape, and apply your feather to the tape.  Put some glue on the ends, and you are done.  Lot's easier to put the feather on the tape, than to try and hole the taped feather and wrap it.
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me [some] venison

TGMM Family Of The Bow

Smithhammer

I've had no problems just using regular contact cement. Apply a think coat to the shaft, and to the base of the feather, wait 20 minutes, and spiral-wrap it on. Then I put a drop of GT Arrow Glue at either end of the feather. Easy.

   

As others have said, make sure the shaft is clean first. I do a little light sanding and wipe with denatured alcohol before fletching.

Here's a good link:

    http://www.trueflightfeathers.com/flu-flu.htm

Austin

One thing i'd add is that its MUCH Easier if you grind down the quill, or as the truflight tutorial points out use their specially prepared feathers where the quill has already been ground down. I like superglue, fletch tite or fletch tape (with superglue at both ends) for this job. with the quill ground down this job is 10x easier. I'd never want to try spiral fletch without this step.
Thunderhorn Coup Stick 60" 54@28
Brad Moore t/d recurve 62" 60@30

Smithhammer

Good point. I just assumed you were starting out with spiral cut feathers. If you're not, try them - it's worth it. They will conform to the curve of the shaft and adhere much better, with much less of a tendency to want to revert back to being straight.

Pat B

My spiral wrap fluflus are tied fore and aft and have no glue on them. Works great.  I have used Duco and fletch tape, both with good results. Your shaft does have to be dust and greese free for most adhesives to hold.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Austin

Pat, do you use synthetic sinew or something else to tie your fluflus? How durable are they unglued like that?
Austin
Thunderhorn Coup Stick 60" 54@28
Brad Moore t/d recurve 62" 60@30

Bud B.

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
never liked those spiral fletched fluflu's, prefer a 6 fletch w/4" or 5" full length feathers, slight offset - or full helical for really slowing down the flight.

 
Me either Rob, until I learned that the spirals, for me, slow down super quickly. For aerials,  I have found spirals are the best. For range and better killing distance, effective killing range, the six fletch are better.

I use and make both.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

$bowhunter$

i perfer to REMOVE the entire quill. ive found it MUCH easier to wrap and stay wrapped, then il top it off with a lil thread on the ends covered in glue. tough as nails and sure not to come undone.


steven
"SHOOT STRAIT" - something im still working twards

Pat B

I've been using real sinew for the wraps If you wrap the feather tight around the shaft it is as durable as any others I've made.
 Here is a pic of the one I took to Colorado this past Sept.
 

All 4 of these arrows have their fletching tied fore and aft with no glue.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Rob DiStefano

QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
 
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
never liked those spiral fletched fluflu's, prefer a 6 fletch w/4" or 5" full length feathers, slight offset - or full helical for really slowing down the flight.

   
Me either Rob, until I learned that the spirals, for me, slow down super quickly. For aerials,  I have found spirals are the best. For range and better killing distance, effective killing range, the six fletch are better.

I use and make both. [/b]
i actually don't like how fast the spirals slow down with a good 55# stick bow, makes it harder to judge the shots out to around 30 yards.  a helical six fletch has the edge there, and drops pretty quick past 40 yards.
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

Terry Green

Remember though....any flu flu can be modified to carry further....in more than one manner.    :campfire:
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Bud B.

These show up good in the woods.

I think I'll get pink next time. For my eyesight pink shows up best.

TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

WJackson11x

Here are a couple I did last week. I used some wraps that I had, full length feathers, gel super glue, and clothespins.  The glue sets very fast on the wraps, allowing me to wrap them quickly.  I did prewrap the feathers to get the shape to hold.  I think the wrap is the key for them staying put.  The white and pink are awesome to watch fly to the target. I started at the point end which allows the feathers to lay down a bit, if you start at the nock end the feathers will stand up more.  They stop very quickly, so much I have to change my aiming point at 20 yds.
Wes Jackson

Black Bear 40# @28 60"
1971 Grizzly 45# @ 28 58"


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