Has anyone tried wiping tru-oil on cedars to seal them?  If so, how well does it hold up on targets?  Does it make the arrows hard to pull?

I have used Tru-oil to seal all types of wood and cane arrows for years. Also use it to seal my selfbows. It will wear after awhile being shot into practice targets but I have never really noticed it causing the arrows to be tough to pull. Perhaps the ultra speed of some bows and certain target materials would cause a problem?

I use it on my recurve takedown limbs that have rattle snake skins, I put it on a couple times a year to recondition them. Good idea on the shafts, I would assume after shooting them in the targets they also may need a recoat from time to time. I use minwax stain on my shafts but may try tru-oil on my next batch of arrows.

I've used either truoil or boiled linseed oil on shafts for years. Never had a problem with getting them from targets wether its 3D or foam.

I have found it to be easier to pull but it is not as durable over time.

I used it extensively and found that it suffered target burn in Delta/MacKenzie targets, as well as with fiberboard backings.  This happens with Minwax polys also.

Killdeer

I found that if you occasionally spray the front end(point to about 10") of any wood shaft with food grade(doesnt smell like regular)silicone they come out of any target easily and it reduces target burn.

QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
I found that if you occasionally spray the front end(point to about 10") of any wood shaft with food grade(doesnt smell like regular)silicone they come out of any target easily and it reduces target burn.

I've used Pam and Pledge in the past. An easy way  to apply it is to soak a rag with the stuff and then wipe the shaft every time you pull it out of a target.

It's the only thing I use on woodies; it's easy, cheap and simple.

Haven't much concern about target burn since most practice is done stumping and rarely at commercial targets so can't really comment on durability on commercial targets, but have found lost arrows over a year in weather and shaft still sealed and straight even though feathers were faded, deteriorated or gone. Refletched the shaft and arrow was as good as new.

From personally experience, it's the only thing I'll every use on wood shafting.

Use it on all my wood arrows.

Not to change the subject but what glue do you guys use for fletching with the Truoil?

Loctite 454 with a dab of Fletchtite Platinum at each end. Haven't had one come off yet. I also scuff the shaft after the Tru-oil has dried. Don't know if this helps fletching to stick - I just like a duller finish to my arrows.

I use Duco. I use it on wood, aluminum and have had no problems with it. Been using it since the 70's or there abouts.

tru-oil, or any resin/poly clear coat will work well for woodies.  there might surely be a target burn issue, as killie posted, but i find these kinda finishes are much tougher than the lacquer variety.  beeswax burnished onto the shaft forefoot really helps with the burn.

fletch tape works quite well with any woodie finish.

Thank ya!

yeah it's cheap and simple and leaves a great finish.  I usually put about 4 coats on and take steel wool to the shafts in between coats.  It also really brings out some beautiful grain patterns.  I would say for the price of some tru oil it's definitely worth it!

I use it on surewoods also and have good results

Thanks for all the responses!  I tried it on some shafts.  It does give them a good look.  Easy to use.