I am shooting 63# @ 32 inches bob lee signature recurve with 150 grain tusker heads. I really like these heads and know that they are not to blame. When I shoot the broadheads I can see my nock kick up and the shot is ALWAYS low. I have read OL Adcock and tried every nock point from 1/8 to 5/8 and it is always always low. I am very angry and cannot figure this out. My field points fly really great at 3/8. Why is my nock kicking up when it has a broad head on it???
DK
I am also shooting 3 under.

What are the shafts and are your heads and field boints the same weight? Whats your fletching like? you can always try adjusting the nock point if the arrow is spined correctly for the bow and head weight.

Keep moving your nock up and down and see if you can get it to go nock low. If you can't it's in your form. Put a piece of masking tape on shelf and see if you can see any arrow contact.

i had consistent nock high problems off the shelf due to my release style.  i am so consistent i didn't want to change.  i went to a brush rest and retuned.  now i can shoot a bareshaft up to 40 yards!

33 inch beman 300 field points are 145 and Bh are 150. I shoot 5 inch shield but feathers left wing.
DK

5/8" isn't all that high really. If you start at 7/8" or so and work your way down you won't get a false nock hi reading. Some guys need 2 nock pts. I use 2.

I would say start your nock point about 1/2 high than go from there. Your arrows sound stiff though for that bow. I would think a 340 with that point weight would be a better match for you. I agree with Onewhohasfun 5/8" is not high that's exactly where my tomahawk likes its nock point.

All right, I just got back in and raised my nock to 3/4. At 20 yards my field points are still driving nails. My broad heads no longer kick up but still hit 5 inches low everytime. according to the OL Adcock I need to lower my knock point to bring the groups together but when I get below 5/8 the nock starts to kick up. I have shot 1 million arrows so I need to stop for the day. I guess tomorrow I will try 7/8. What does 2 nocks do for you? Keep in mind I am fairly new.
Thanks for the input guys,
DK

Two nock points will keep the arrow from sliding down the string as the string moves forward under power.  There is a nice video that shows it, maybe some one can post it.

If the nock end of your arrow was slipping down the string, you might end up with the arrow bouncing off the shelf.  Raising it up far enough to prevent the bounce might leave you with a nock point that is too high.  Either way you end up with the arrow leaving the bow nock high.  Have you tried bare shafts?

If you are shooting three under though, you might need a pretty high nock point.  My favorite recurve is tillered split finger and I need to get the nock point up 7/8" or so to tune well shooting three under.

Dkdc, Sometimes the arrow will slide down the string at release. If the arrow slides down far enough it will bounce up off the self. A nock point below the arrow will prevent this. You don't want the two nock points to pinch the arrow, leave just little play. You may also want to check to see that your broadheads are spinning true. Good luck to you.

Have you tried shooting a group of bareshafts with the exact same specs as your group of fletched arrows to see how they group differently. You may need an even higher nocking point though as I use a 5/8" high nocking point shooting split fingered.

A Broadhead arrow and a field point arrow are NOT the same animal even when the BH and field point are of the same weight... The dynamics and stress upon release effect the arrow spine... So one MUST tune for broadheads...

Some people THINK their arrows shoot the same, but (they) don't... Did you spin your broadheads? Do they "spin true"? Are you shooting a group of broadhead arrows or just one arrow? It's easy to get turned off and confused at this point. Don't give up. It will come together soon enough. The answer will be a simple one...

... mike ...

Did you start with bare shaft to fletched tuning?  Since I started using this method, I have not had any issues or need to further tune with broadheads once I had the bare shaft to fletched tune perfect.  

If you can't get the arrows to tune no matter what you are either having form error issues or spine issues.

i will start with some bare shafts tomorrow. I spun my heads on a cutting board to check for wobble, but that was it.
I dont want to shoot a group of heads because I might hit my other arrows. Should I shoot them as groups?

I agree with Ragnarok Forge 100% once you bare shaft tune you probably will not need to even bother bh tuning.

There is something very wrong. I just shot a bare shaft at 20 yards and the nock kicked so high the arrow hit in front of my target and went under it. That was after I raised my nock up to 7/8. I am totaly lost. The broadhead shot a little higher though.
Dk

You don't want to shoot broadheads as groups! I should have said... Have three arrows ready... Shoot one, pull it out. Shoot another, pull it out and so on... As someone posted above... Your shooting form might play a hand in this...

Who Said This Trad Stuff Was Simple?!  

... mike ...

If you nock is riding that high and the arrow is hitting that low, it's most likely that the nock's kicking off the riser.  If your arrows were spined correctly and your nock point was just set a little high the nock would leave high but the arrow would correct it self and should hit relatively close to your other arrows.  Try raising your nock point to 1" and putting a second nock on your set up below the arrow.  If the nock rides high but the arrow isn't shooting lower that your field points move the nocks down an 1/8" and shoot again.  As Mcground said earlier, your BH tipped arrows will shoot stiffer than the same arrows with same weight field points.  I'll often shoot a fp that's 25-30 grains lighter than my BH's when tuning or bareshaft with a fp until it's acting slightly weak.  Fletching and sticking the BH on the end nearly always leaves me with a perfectly tuned arrow.

I have tried to shoot carbons but none work for me, cannot bareshaft tune them, aluminums fixed that problem for me.

Did you check for contact on the shelf? Most likely on the outside edge.