Here you go... slot your shaft, drill two holes, and use brass welding rod or steel for pins.

Thank you Kirk.  Would that be wood you were figurin for the shaft?  If so, I'm just assuming it is a simple peened head on the brass, then once it spins true glue it to hold in place?

This is what I enjoy about this site.  So many guys willing to share their knowledge.

Thanks for the thoughts and nice comments guys.

I like the idea of slotting the head and welding in a fieldpoint. Makes it a screw in!

Scott

I was thinking of modifying a field point also and welding it on. Looks really good Mike, like the weight too.

Mike...I'll start saving all my dull blades for you!    
Seriously, nice work!!

Thanks Jared.  We will see you and jr. At the wild game dinner in a few weeks if not before.

You know something.... if you took a glue on field point and put it on the shaft first.... then used a thin grinding wheel to slot the steel field tip that would be a lot stronger.

if you broke the shaft, you could always slot cut another shaft and insert it using hot melt glue.

I may have to try this myself.  

Dean Torges gave me a few of these heads.  They have no tang.  I slotted the shaft, epoxied it in and wrapped with .020" stainless safety wire.  It looks kinda thin and prone to bend at the front of the slot; just some holes like the Abowyer trade heads might be better.  It did its job without folding, tho.

During lunch today, I decided to work smarter (not harder) and used the bandsaw.  Looks like I now have a new habit I need to learn to kick.    

Thats great thinking . Lets see them on some arrows . And one with red on it.      

Mike, the way I haft trade points is to cut a single bandsaw cut in the shaft to the depth you want. Then taper the end of the shaft like for a glue on point.  Now fit the point to the slot using sandpaper. I like to use pitch glue for hafting because it is easy to adjust later with a little heat.   You can use 2 part epoxy to hold the point then wrap behind the point with sinew(the best) or strong thread, for about 1".
 If you drill two holes in the point along where the shaft will be you can use them to tie the point better to the shaft.
 You can see the holes in these Abowyer heads and the sinew wrap.

I thought this was a great idea, especially since I have lots of old blades. Had to give it a try and one made in less than an hour. welded feild points in for a screw on. Stick welding them isn't the answer but if I had a TIG machine I would never buy another broadhead. Thankis for the GREAT idea.

Here I am looking at old spoons to make heads out of and the whole time I have a pile of old saw blades staring me in the face  

Thanks for tuning on the light bulb.

I took the 6 I made today and after giving them a single bevel edge, I used SO's idea and used the search feature on here to teach myself how to file in a Tanto tip.  Once mounted, these are going to Kauai with me and hopefully deflating a few goats.