I have made many an arrow using wood and aluminnumniumn "Never could say nor spell that word correctly"    Anyway I want to put cap wraps on my Gold tips and not certain I need to do anything to the shaft first as to  prepping it ? Also I have read somewhere that the inside of the shaft needs to be brushed and I need a bore cleaning brush so glue will stick and these are 15/35 G.T. and not certain the best glue or brush size to purchase to use on them...I will also be fine tuning these by cutting one at a time and see how it flys before I cut the rest...Santa brought me a Easton Elite cut off saw and that won't be a problem as to cutting them till I find the right combo...Just basically want to try a glue that I can remove the insert and cut several times then find a glue to use that will hold permantly when I'm finished..Any suggestions will be much appreciated.. Thanks and God Bless,
                                 Keefers <><

Keefer,
I clean the inside of the shaft with alcohol on a Q-tip. As far as a glue for temporary use, you  might try just using Saran Wrap around the insert.
Or you can also try a small amount of hot melt. Just be careful when removing the insert. I use heat from an alcohol burner on a screwed in insert to loosen the hot melt.  Don't apply heat directly on the shaft.
Or you can always cut down the nock end, and leave the insert alone.

I use carbons because it is easier to pronounce.  

You could also use cold melt (the blue stick) if you're worried about too much heat.  I've been using it lately and haven't had any problems yet.

I just cut the nock end when bare shaft testing.
I've also had my best luck using Gorilla glue for  installing inserts. But you can't get the inserts out EVER.

Joe,
Just regular gorrila glue? Wow I can get that anywhere..Once I get them tuned to my draw legnth that may be what I'll use...They make a Gorrila super glue also..Would that be what you were referring to or the other glue?

Yeah, I had an epiphany one day while pulling inserts for trimming,"gee, why not just pull the nock and cut that end". real great when your insert is epoxied.

In a cordless drill I use a .30 cal bore brush in and out again, then swab with rubbing alcohol. If you think about trying something like a Carbon Express Heritage, I use the aluminum inserts for the 150's and 250's but need a 100 gr. brass insert to help with weight up front for the 350's. I love having all components interchangeable. My 150's are 450-475gr. depending on which bow in the lower 50lbs, 250's are about 575 - 600gr. and the 350's about 740gr. My main bows poundage runs 58-60lbs at my draw, which is about 27.5", shafts are apprx. 29.25 front of shaft to nock. There are helpful posts on this sight to foot them with aluminum and make them stonger than anything you can buy that I know of.

Joe hit a homerun..............

Install the insert permanantly and cut the knock end to tune.

Sent you a PM Keef.

I do the bare shaft planning method, so I use 3 fletched and 3 bare and compare group locations. That elminates being able to cut it off the nock end.  

I have used 5 min epoxy in days of yore... and heat (alcohol burner only) applied to a field tip will allow you to twist out the insert and dunk the shaft in cool water. I've been shooting some of those carbons for 5 yrs with no visible effects...

Kinsey Outdoors used brown stick hot melt... never cleaned a thing! Sold hundreds of dozens/year of them done that way and guys would shoot them into masonite back stop within minutes of us cutting and putting in inserts... only heard of 2 ever pulling out!

I dunno... only been doing it about 10 yrs...so your milage may differ.

Thanks everyone for all the imput...The only problemm with me cutting the nock end is I like the graphics with the weight marked on my G.T. so I'll need to cut the insert end  untill get to what works best...Thanks again!
                                Keefers <")))><