It's the vinegar in the mustard that does it, so clean your blade with alcohol to remove oil, then soak the blade (not the handle) in a jar of vinegar for a while, an hour or two probably. Blade will darken, turn dark grey.

After this happens, dry it till it's smooth to the touch, put a light film of oil on it, and sharpen. Good to go. Keep using the knife. Don't leave it wet.

All my knives are carbon steel, I live on the gulf coast and don't have much problem with rust. If you use a carbon steel knife every day, it will develop a patina on it's own, but it takes a while. If small rust spots show up, just clean them off. If you don't use it every day, just wipe it down where it's dry and light film of any kind of oil. Doesn't take much oil. Just wiping with a slightly oily rag is enough.

Great thread, thanx for sharing.

I like them that way too. Do what the others said about preventing rust and you should be o.k. to go... and you'll enjoy getting it razor sharp.

Heck, it matches the bows we carry... they're not those sissy city slicker chrome knives... they're traditional steel bushman's knives! LOL!

Non-stick spray (PAM) works ok also.   You have to use a knife every once in a while though if you use the spray or it will get sticky.

Carbon Steel will rust.  Always has.  Always will unless you take steps to protect it.

I use Butcher Block conditioner on all blades/handles that go out of the shop.  It works great, food grade and all!

I dont think Jedimaster left a thing out I wouldn't have said. I wish I had one, my son-in law loves his.I pick on him about wearing it to church but the two are inseperable.Hope it works out that way with my girl!!

I use Fiebing's Mink Oil paste on my personal carbon blades and also on all of the knives that I ship out. It's the stuff made for waterproofing boots. The heavy paste stays on the blade better and last longer than oil.

One more thing worth mentioning,never leave a knife in a damp or wet sheath. Also blood is highly corrosive,wash well after skinning dry and put a light coat of Vasoline on the blade. I'm also in the company of the "if it wont rust,I dont want it" crowd.

Actually sometimes rust is pretty cool!  This one was purposely rusted with Laural Mountain browning solution to make a newly forged blade look like it was excavated up from the Green Mountain Rondevu site     All the above treatments will help control  rust.  I lightly cover my blades with Mothers car wax when not used...but a little rust on a high carbon blade just adds character.  tippit

 

 

I use mineral oil on all my knives. It's especially good for knives used in food preparation where you wouldn't want to eat 3n1 or wd40.

Most pocket knife collectors will recomend mineral oil.

Agree with developing a patina on carbon blades. I've found over the years that it will develop naturally such as the rust you have described. Rather than remove it, I polish it lightly with very fine steel wool then oil it to stop the rust action. This patina will build with each use over time. All of my carbon blades have this grey patina and no longer rust unless allowed to stay wet.

Yep get the patina and it will be fine.  I hate stainless it is a bugger to get shaving sharp as it will "gaule".  Carbon blades are all I use or will buy.

QuoteOriginally posted by GMASIUK:
I use mineral oil on all my knives. It's especially good for knives used in food preparation where you wouldn't want to eat 3n1 or wd40.

Most pocket knife collectors will recomend mineral oil.

That is a good point and here's another tip:

I always carry a carbon steel Case pocketknife, and on rare occasions I get wet, or I'm out in the woods and fall in a river or something, and my knife stays wet for a long time in my pocket, etc.  

When this happens, I fill a small bowl or jar with mineral oil (the laxative mineral oil you get cheap from the drugstore) and drop the knife in, and let it stay under for a few days or even a week while I carry another pocketknife.

When you take it out let it drain a few days and then wipe down good.

My carry knives have bone handles, and soaking in mineral oil is good for any knife that has stag or bone handles.

All good tips, yes, carbon is the reason.

But, don't overlook the sheath, if used! Storage can trap moisture, and cause more harm than protection. If leather sheath is used, try putting something like Motana Pitch blend, inside.

Also, using a sharpie, like on my exposed broadhead edges, or a dye can help, too.

Oxidation will effect all exposed surfaces, even stainless.

Buy and use some good ol' Plum Brown, and then clean/oil the blade after use. Problem solved.

Regular exposure to deer, turkey, squirrel fat usually does the trick.  :D  


Rob

I make and use carbon knives.  They all will rust.  My advice is to rub a small dab of oil on the blade after each use.  If you do this your knife should remain rust free.

Yeah, the patina is good!

We have a few knives from my wife's Grandmother, one paticular, a Forgecraft..hi-carbon! this knife is probably over 50 years, young! Oh and what an edge it takes!

It is stained from tip to tang! Just like a fine seasoning on a cast iron skillet!  

What has been discussed is called "forcing" a patina.  And folks are correct its the vinegar/acid in the mustard that works the magic.   Cheap ole yellow mustard works fine.  The mustard seed itself simply acts to keep the vinegar from evaporating too fast before enough oxidation takes place.

You can get a little creative with it was well.  I forced a patina on one of my knives by crumpling up a wad of plastic kitchen wrap (Saran Wrap), dipping the wad of wrap in the mustard and dabbing this on the blade.  Made a cool pattern and turned the bright steel to a dull gray with a neat pattern.  Of course you could use a brush and make tiger stripes or any other pattern you can imagine.  If you just use plain vinegar just dampen some paper towels. Wrap the blade with the damp paper towels and check on it every half hour or so until you get the patina you are looking for.