When using aluminum to use for footing carbon shafts ,do you just cut a piece of aluminum over the carbon shaft using the carbon insert or do you not use the carbon insert and use a insert that fits the aluminum?

Slip the footing right to the end of the shaft and use the carbon insert

They are bomb proof i haven't damaged an arrow since doing it.

Cut the aluminum shaft to length. I use 2" for the front, 1/4" for the nock collar.  Then debur the aluminum piece. I use a round and flat file.  When done deburring, I clean all aluminum pieces with acetone, then clean arrow shaft with acetone. I apply the gorrilla glue epoxy using q tips to the inside of al shaft and outside of carbon, taking care to wipe away excess.  

The I don't touch for 24 hours and my shafts are invincible!

I just footed some carbon's for the first time and they a awesome!! I shot one of them into a concrete block just to see how tuff they where, let's just say I'm still shooting that arrow! I'm going to start footing all my arrows.

Great! That was just the in formation I was looking for. Thank you all!

I have been looking into going this route also. Will have to try soon. I did a search and found LOTS of posts about footing carbons so there is definitely plenty of info here.

Slip the footing right to the end of the shaft and use the carbon insert

Try not to use a piece that is longer than the insert, maybe an 1/8th inch tops, otherwise you just move the weak spot back to the end of the aluminum footing. I usually cut mine about an 1 and a quarter. The footing should go over the inserts as well not behind it. You can chamfer the footing if ya have to so it does that. Shawn

You are, as usual, correct about your statement, Shawn. More is definitely not better in this instance. I use 1" pieces because it's easier math.

I use about 1". That keeps it about the same as my insert. I see no benefit in more and this much doesn't add so much weight as to change tune much. I don't let it get on my rest. That makes a change to my tune if I get it back too far.  I use brass inserts and hot melt so I keep my footing at the back or the insert.

I haven't heard about this yet. I shoot Gold Tips. What size aluminum shaft would I need to fit over the carbon shafting?

Informative thread!

sheephunter.....I use 2117 on my GT 3555 Trads, I have to sand the shaft just a bit to get them to slide on. They slide right on a black GT 3555.

There was a list floating around with the aluminum shafts that correctly matched up to the carbon shafts.......anyone have it handy?

I think this is the "chart" you are referring to from a thread in 2009, posted by Charlie Lamb:

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000098

Shows the alum shaft sizes that pair with different carbons.

Thanks for the help guys! Truly appreciated! That right there is why this is the greatest sight out there!

QuoteOriginally posted by Shawn Leonard:
Try not to use a piece that is longer than the insert, maybe an 1/8th inch tops, otherwise you just move the weak spot back to the end of the aluminum footing.

this may be true.
but i've been thinking......        
the balance point of the shaft is it's center of gravity right? as the arrow is moving forward the part of the arrow that is infront of the center of gravity (COG) is being pushed along and the part of the arrow behind the COG is being dragged along. wouldn't you want to move the "weak spot" further to the rear of the arrow because when the arrow strikes something the COG would have less leverage on that point??

would the half way point between the tip of the arrow and the COG be the best spot as that would put the fulcrum ("weak spot")half way between the resistance and momentum forces??? that way neither of them would have a lever longer than the other.