Greetings All,

I'm getting ready to find the correct spine carbon for my longbow.  I've never messed with carbons before so this is a My question;  What glue do you use that makes easy removal of the insert as I will probably have to shoot, remove insert, cutshaft, then reglue the insert in my quest to find the correct length/spine/tip weight combo...

I'd hate to screw up the shaft by using the wrong stuff...

Thanks in advance.

Happy hunting,
Jason

I just responded somewhere else to the same question, maybe you. I cut from the nock end and I wrap Saran Wrap around the insert and shove them in tight and shoot into a homemade bag target so I can retrieve the points if they come out. I do this as I experiment with inserts too.

I've used different insert glues with about all the same luck. currently useing Insert Iron(bohning) product I believe.

If you know you plan to remove you could just use a touch of glue intead of gluieng the entire insert and then once you know for sure then reglue the entire insert.

Biggest thing is be carefull applying heat when removing them.  I put a target tip in a vise then heat the tip and threads of the tip, then screw on the arrow and give a second or two for the heat to transfer to the insert and slowly twist arrow. If it don't feel like it'll let go the apply heat to the very tip on the point staying well away from the carbon and the insert. Trying to heat the insert will for sure dmagae the carbon cause the flame is just to hot to get that close to the arrow.

Jason............

If you are tuning bareshaft, glue the insert in permanant and cut the nock end of the shaft, remove the nock and recut till you get where you need to be. OR If you use lo-temp hot melt you can remove them easily with a little heat, just heat the point, not the shaft.

A touch of hot melt til you get them how you want them...

one very tweakable method is to epoxy in a 25gr aluminium insert and then use a combination of adapters (aluminium 25gr or 42gr - or steel 75/100/125gr) and glue-on points (100 to 190gr) or screw-in points (100-300gr).  

this will allow total front end weights of 125gr to 325gr.  

all these adapters and point weights make for a great little carbon "front end test kit".  once the right front end and total arrow weight is discovered, settle on type of insert, adapter, glue-on and/or screw-in point of your choice.  this is the one super advantage of non-woodie shafts - lots of easy to use choices for points.

how cool is that?  i say way!   :D


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i use the hot melt glue sticks. like the ones you buy for a hot glue gun. heat up with hot glue gun or a candle when gluing in the inserts and the heat with a candle to remove. thats what i use for testing purposes and for hunting purposes.

Tried the new Bohning Blue hot melt made for carbons on my broadheads this year. Worked great and if you use glue-in glue-on inserts like i do it allows you to remove them and use the arrows with normal inserts after hunting. Got it from 3Rivers.

Can probably save you a little money getting them up to the proper weight and gives them great FOC. I use 100 grain 6-mm. 243 bullets. Just epoxy them behind your insert. Works great and helps with the archers paradox.

Insert iron, removes with heat

one very tweakable method is to epoxy in a 25gr aluminium insert and then use a combination of adapters (aluminium 25gr or 42gr - or steel 75/100/125gr) and glue-on points (100 to 190gr) or screw-in points (100-300gr).

I agree with all that EXCEPT....almost no one has any of those adapters in stock right now.Badger does have some 100 gr ones.I'm not sure what that is all about.

The plastic wrap trick works well, and what I used to do until the low temp hot melts showed up.

We have every adapter weight in stock right now except 125's if you want to go that route.

Hot melt and insert tool.