As I stated earlier, the slip fit joint is much easier to build, and gives you a truer arrow shaft than a screw together joint. The fit of the insert in each  shaft, insert to insert face, and threads all conspire to make your arrow less than straight. Whereas a slip fit just requires a tight fitting piece of shaft inside and glued on one half to make your joint.

The monopod idea has been done too. 3 Rivers and Kustom King have them.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Hunting+Outdoor+Gear+Accessories+Miscellaneous+HeroShot+Camera+Adapter_c50_s46_p73_i8006_product.html

The slip joint connection would make it easier to build a straight arrow.I think it would lend itself more to aluminums.I'm not sure I would be comfortable shooting an arrow with a carbon to carbon joint,mid-shaft.

The reason I wanted to make the monopod,besides wanting one,was to play with that joint idea.The Victory inserts I had were lighter and more precisely built than the Gold tips.When tightened down on the all thread,the joint was tight and fairly precise.

The Gold Tip inserts would have been useless in creating a good joint.I think the biggest problem isn't the insert fit in the shaft or the thread fit but the fact that the first 1/2" of each insert has a wider (.200")unthreaded section.

This means when connected with the all thread,there is a 1" section of all thread that is unsupported.This can lead to a little lateral play.It wasn't bad with the Victory inserts tightened down,but I could get them to shift slightly if I deliberatly torqued them side to side.

When I built my take down arrows a few years ago,I made aluminum connectors,starting with an aluminum broadhead adapter.This gave me that smooth,wider shank to fit into the insert better.

The problem with my setup was that I turned down the adapters in the drill press by using a file and it wasn't precise enough.I had to keep the two arrow halves straight while the epoxy cured.If I had built them on a lathe,it would have worked much better.Still,they shoot well.

I believe if someone ever wanted to manufacture a TD connector,it would look like the male part protruding from the shaft above,only double sided,1" of smooth shank,.200 diameter and threaded on both ends.This would be one universal connector that would work with every size aluminum and carbon arrow insert that used standard,screw in points.It would be cheaper to make than an aluminum adapter and one size fits all.Oh,and there should be a titanium version too.

This connection system,all aluminum would weigh about 45 grs.

Back when Rambo (movie) came out with the take down arrows. One of the guys who to shoot with us bought a compound bow with the take down arrows, it was a package deal I think Hoyt( not sure).

The arrows came apart like tent poles with the elastic stretch things that kept them together. It's been a long time so I don't remember the size arrows, but they worked great.

Does anyone remember.

Takedown arrows, been done along time!

C.R. Learn, did an article, in the late '80s for Bow & Arrow Mag, about these. A Company in Arizona, made a tenon tool, to attach a sleeve of aluminum, for wood arrows!

Also was profiled a compression sleeve, to attach, 2 sections of aluminum shafts, for said purpose.

I have used, a section of Blackhawk carbons, to connect, 2117 shafts together for fine shootin, arrows! With the components available today, it's an easy do!

I also remember the shock cord, attachments used for takedowns. Like used for tent poles!

Heck, primitive man, used 2 piece arrows!

Nothing new!    

Nothing new indeed, especially regarding the primitive arrow,  with two sections and with exchangeable heads.

I remember reading an article on how to make one from the mid 70's, and other one on TBM from the mid 90's.  

Nothing new.

nope, nothing "new" about t/d arrows.  'cept when applied to synthetic shafting, it's far more doable, practical, and tweakable.    

I've made several of the TD carbon arrows using a plutruded(sp) Beman 400 hunter for the inside sleeve. I made sure to use heavy GPI shaft, like the CX Heritage 250's. My biggest worry was having the female end fracture.

I think the insert version would solve that problem.

Troy

I wanted to make some 2 piece arrows for backpacking, and this is what I came up with, after reading all your comments:



I took 2 point inserts and cut off the flanges.  I glued one of them halfway into one shaft.  I then used the glued-in insert to poke the other insert into the other shaft, which automatically seated at the correct distance so the two inserts would butt up against each other inside the shaft when assembled.  These are Gold Tip inserts, so they are already threaded 8 X 32 on one end.  I cut off a section of an 8 X 32 screw, and threaded and glued half of it into the first glued-in insert.

I was worried that the glue from the second insert would be a mess inside the shaft and make it hard to screw the two arrow halves together, but that turned out not to be a problem.  I just dabbed a little glue on the end of the second insert before I shoved it into the shaft, which spread along the insert as it was being installed.  There was very little glue on the inside of the shaft, which I cleaned up with a Q-tip.

The insert that spans both halves internally keeps the arrow pretty straight when assembled.  Not as straight as an uncut arrow, which doesn't move the gauge on my Arizona Arrow Straightener micrometer much at all, but it is straighter than my typical wood arrow after I get it as straight as I can.

I made the first one bare shaft, so I could compare it with an uncut arrow, which I haven't done yet, but I'll let you know how that turns out.

Does any company make takedown arrows and sell them commerically? With the new restrictions on mailing packages overseas, especially since a 29 in. arrow would be too long, I need to order some made. Any thoughts?

This is a great thread! it should go in the "how to"!!!
Thank you for doing all the testing and prototyping!!
It was a fun read and useful info!!

Thanks guys, enjoyed reading this!

this is a cool thread,how about a 2219 on the front an a 2016 in the rear.It would be like a footed shaft on steroids lol.I would like to see a slow motion film of one of these arrows flying.I was superised to read this really works.

TBM had an article a few years back about making take downs.

You guys are killing me here.Now I gotta get out of my chair ,go out to the shop and make a couple of these for my up coming Hawaii Pig hunt in March.

Oh Yeah,I thought this is a cool thread by the way.I will be using Robs all thread joint idea.I think it that is a great idea.Will see how they fly.

My best friend had made his own by swedging the arrow shaft. No glue in insert.  Fred was a machinist and had a 34" arrow. He had made them to go on hunting trips. This shaft was a 2216. They flew like darts.

Interesting stuff!!!

Thought I would bring this back up since we are talking about take down arrows.

I'm gonna try some. If it works, I'll have some great arrows to take to Africa in August.

I'm wondering.  Left wing feathers have a tendency to loosen/unscrew points.  Might it do the same to threaded insert joints?