I`ve ran a search for bare shaft tuning carbons and came up with everything but a 101 course in doing it. Well, that`s what I need, a 101 course in tuning carbons for my 45# Savannah. Can someone please give me some detail or maybe point me in the right direction to a web site for this. I`m dying to shoot my new arrows and don`t wanna screw this up.   :rolleyes:  

          Burch  

Check this tuningtips out and good luck:)

http://www.brackenburybows.com/Tuning%20Tips.htm

If you are right handed:
Shoot a bare shaft into the target from about 20'.
If the shaft enters the target with the point to the right and the nock to the left, the shaft is too weak. If the point is to the left and the nock to the right, it is too stiff.
If the shaft is too weak you can correct by shooting a lighter point or by cutting the shaft shorter. If it is too stiff, you can shoot a heavier point, impossible to add length to the shaft. Or you can switch to a stiffer or weaker shaft if you can not correct as stated above. If you are left handed, the opposite is true on how the shaft enters the target. The easiest way to remember this is if the nock points towards your stronger arm it is too strong, if it points to your weaker arm it is too weak. A right hand person has a stronger right arm, left hand person has a stronger left arm. That is about as siple as I can give it.

I have Goldtips. When cutting these down do I cut the insert end or the nock end ?

If using a bag target it can lie about the angle.  A layered target or a bale works best.

http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html

QuoteOriginally posted by texbow2:
 http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html  

I can tell you if you draw 28"s a 35/55 GT should tune up well but you will need a lot of point weight. I would say 29.5"s and 275 point weight will be darn close. You could get away with a .600 spine and 29"s and 175 grains up front will get ya close too! Shawn

Cant get any simpler than John said. Well said.

QuoteOriginally posted by burch:
I have Goldtips. When cutting these down do I cut the insert end or the nock end ?

You can cut either end, but it is simpler to cut the nock end.  If you cut the nock end all you have to do is pull out the nock, cut and push the nock back in. If you cut the point end you have to remove and replace the insert each time.  Not hard, just more time consuming.

what kinda glue do you use for inserts on these Goldtips ?

Insert Iron  

works well for me

I rough up the inside of the shaft and then the insert and use SLOW CURE epoxy. I've never lost a point.

O.K. i`m in the process of shooting fletched shafts and bare shafts. I need to cut the insert end because most of the wobble is on that end. I glued the inserts with a dab of fletching glue in hopes of it holding just long enough to get through this but nope it came out after the first shot. So how do you keep the insert intact while tuning the arrows ? If I epoxy those in it`s a done deal.
      Burch

If your target doesn't grab the arrow too hard, then a wrap of plastic food wrap around the insert will hold it in. Painters' tape has served me well, also, used the same way.

Killdeer

QuoteOriginally posted by Killdeer:
If your target doesn't grab the arrow too hard, then a wrap of plastic food wrap around the insert will hold it in. Painters' tape has served me well, also, used the same way.

Killdeer

I`ll give her a try Killdeer

QuoteOriginally posted by texbow2:
 http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html  

Doesn't get any easier and clearer then this.
Eliminates all the varibles of target material, poor release, nock fit and a bunch of other things that effect trying to get perfect bareshaft flight and causes false readings/conclusions.

This is about as good as I can shoot. I ran my testing at 15yrds. The shafts hit pretty close as far as grouping goes. The bare shafts hit about 2" right and 2" low, nocks high. I need honest opinions good or bad please.

 

QuoteOriginally posted by burch:
This is about as good as I can shoot. I ran my testing at 15yrds. The shafts hit pretty close as far as grouping goes. The bare shafts hit about 2" right and 2" low, nocks high. I need honest opinions good or bad please.

 

You're good to go, but if you're going to hunt with that setup I'd throw some BH on a couple of fletched sgafts and see how they group compared to the FPs..

Also, my draw length is about 28 1/2" I`ve cut thses shafts to 29 3/4". I`m wondering if I cut them to 29 1/2" will it tighten up my group or spread it out.