Now, if there's one thing I like to make arrows out of, it's hickory. Makes a nice, durable, HEAVY shaft that flies well out of my bows. I've got an upcoming trip to hog heaven this Sept, and some heavy shafts would be just the ticket. Enter Denton Hill and Bill at Allegany Mountain Arrow woods. A quick stop by his booth produced these beauties...

 

640-660 grain raw hickory shafts. 85-90 spine. Should make quite the hog killers. If not, they'll sure give the local whitetails a hard time. So stay tuned, because I'm going to try a build along with these...

I will be watching this. I love arrow build alongs.

what he said  

Good start my friend!

F-Manny

Chris, Bring those puppies over, I'll get them tapered for you  

Tap-tap-tap

Bowspirit,  what kind of bow and what poundage are you shooting these out of?

Joe

That's not fair, I am just working on a build-along for woodies.....

Just a few things before I start. I am not toting hickory as the do-it all wood shafting to end all wood shafting, and firmly believe to each his own. There is a reason cedar and fir are the more popular choices. They straighten easily, remain straighter, have an easier to read grain, stain nicer; the list goes on. That said, if you accept that hardwoods like hickory are more work, you can produce a heavy hunting shaft of unmatched durability.
Also, I hope most of you aren't looking for any contest winners. I figured this year I'd make my arrows simple yet functional. No caps or cresting; just straighten, seal, seal again, cut, taper, and fletch. With luck, I'll pretty them up with some nice red...

QuoteOriginally posted by Joe Subler:
Bowspirit,  what kind of bow and what poundage are you shooting these out of?

Joe

62 pound Kaibab longbow. I know these are heavy, but I just like heavy arrows better. It's the trajectory I've trained my brain to. Even my lighter Surewoods just break 700-grains....

I just finished my first set of Ash shafts and they ended up around 650 grains, wouldn't mind trying something a little heavier. Is that a common raw weight for Hickory?

bring it on, chris!    

Chris,
Sent you a PM

Thanks Rob and Ken. Now, on with the show...

If there is one thing to tame a stubborn shaft, it's heat. Low, steady heat. Usually, I can get a set of hickories straight with just some hand straightening. It usually takes a few rounds, but I've been pretty lucky when it comes to just palming the arrows. With this batch though, I've brought out the big guns.
A heat gun would work nice for this, but those of us on fixed incomes can just use the kitchen range. Simply isolate a bend in the shaft, and place it over medium heat, rotating the shaft so the entire section is hot to the touch.



Be careful not to scorch the shaft; any blackening or burning of the shaft creates a weak spot. Weak spots of any kind tend to work against what hickory has going for it. Not to mention, they provide a possible danger to yourself and others around you. If you want, rub some cooking oil on the bend so as to absorb the heat.

Once the bend is hot to the touch, take your palm (protected with an oven mitt of course!) and place it against the high point of the bend. Taking the back end of the shaft in your other hand, flex the end against the bend. Basically, if the bend has the front pointed off to the right, flex the back to the left.

 

Remember, use steady, even pressure. Trying to to too much at one time will work the bend in the opposite direction, and you'll go nuts trying to straighten these.
Sometimes, I like to incorporate a round-necked screwdriver at this point. Curt Cabrera had an excellent post on how to straighten arrows with one in the how-to section. Very helpful.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000060

Stick with it. I like to do all the major bends first, then set them aside before coming back and working on all the little dips and bends. Again, it's all about not taking on too much at once.

Now comes the process of sealing the shafts. Hickory, like all wood shafts, is susceptible to moisture. Hardwoods, however, are even more so. My first batch was sealed with a water-based poly. Sure, it dried fast and cleaned up easy. But that was it for pros. Once the elements found them, those shafts gave me more straightening fits than one would imagine. From now on, my finish is either Tru-Oil or a two part combination of Watco Danish oil and  Polyurethane. Since these shafts will see a mix of stumping, targets, and hunting, I chose the latter, more durable finish.

 

The first thing I do is sand every shaft down with 000 steel wool. Makes for a glossy smooth surface. Then, I taper the nock end before applying the finish. While a close friend is allowing me the use of his sander, I found I could get away with the hand held tool on these shafts. You usually can. That said, a sanding taper tool of some kind works best. I used to use a Woodchuck, and was more than pleased with the results.

 

Chris, Looking Good My friend    )

Once tapered, I apply the finish. The first is Danish oil. I choose to do a natural-colored shaft, but the oil comes in numerous shades.
My favorite method is a homemade soaktube, but for time, I'm just wiping it on as per the directions. Most folks use this stuff to bump up the weight on fir, spruce, or cedar shafts. Hardwoods don't really soak up that much, but I like it because it soaks down deep into the shaft. That's important; poly just sits on top of the shaft, giving a chance for moisture to slip in.



After two coats, I wait 72 hours for them to dry before putting on a top coat of polyurethane. So, it's going to be awhile. Be back in a few days...

I can`t wait to see the result!!    

MAY THE SPIRIT OF FRED BEAR GUIDE OUR ARROWS.

Man, I would love to try some hickory shafts....but my 45# bows wouldnt be very inspiring flingin them heavy suckers very far! Lookin good!