Compound shooters seem to like them as short as possible. Even dangerously short sometimes, in my opinion.

Medieval archers shot arrows up to 36" long, the common draw length was 30" putting 6" of arrow sticking out the end.

Given that your arrow is properly tuned, how long do you like your arrows compared to your draw length? Is there a reason you like it like that? What are your reasons?

I cut them till they are tuned-the length means nothing as long as they are perfectly  tuned, and of course not too short.

Because of the way I aim, the arrow & point length affect my sight picture. I strive for an arrow that will tune at 27.5 or 28" total. This is 1.5-2" beyond the back of the bow.

I do what Bjorn does, trim a little off at a time till they're shooting good and have never paid any attention to length

Mine are 29.5" with a 26.5-27" draw. That is the length they tuned the best for me.

I try to keep them at 31 -30,75", thats 0,75-1" longer than my draw
First i need that for broadhead clearance, second i like to have them all at the same length so that my sight picture stays consistent.

Full length GT Trads in both 1535 and 3555 and tune with front end weight with nock is 30.25". I have about an inch in front of the bow with that setup at my draw length and anchoring middle finger to corner of mouth. They're almost too short but they do fine.

Woodies are different. I usually have to trim those to try to get good tune, so, that can vary a little but usually no shorter than 30" BOP. That's cutting it close if broadheads are used.

You fellows with shorter draws are lucky in my eyes. It allows for more variances. Plus, when looking at the TG classifieds I see many arrows I look at only to see they are already cut too short for me to even think about buying.

Right now it's a 30.5" arrow for my 27" draw, they tuned out just right at that length & the weight that is up front.

With my 30" draw length, it doesn't matter what spine of aluminum arrow I'm shooting. They are all 32" BOP. Never shorter, never longer.

1/4" longer than my draw length - the woodsman touching my bowhand knuckle is my draw check.  

29.25" arrows and my draw is 26.75", because that is the length that my arrows are tuned the best with my setup. Plus, I like 2" of aluminum footing on the end too. My specs are in my signature below:

Forever unless they break....lol

   

PS: Sorry, I just couldn't help myself...lol

I tune my arrows and let that determine their final length.With wood and aluminum you can pick a spine to finish about an 1" longer then you draw.But with carbons,they don't come in as many different spines so length is not important to me as long as they shoot the way I want.

30" arrows for my 29" draw.  I don't shoot carbons so tuning isn't an issue (more choices with wood and aluminum).  Without getting into the definition of "instinctive" shooting, I believe sight picture (including arrow) matter, either consciously or sub-consciously, no matter how you claim to aim.

I have a 28" draw and like to get alum arrows tuned that will be at 28.5"-29".

Mine are tuned well at about 31 inches. I left them that long when I made them a year ago as I was just starting to get back into archery, and I figured that my draw length would probably increase as my form and strength improved (which it has). Plus it gives me a little extra weight and lots of clearance for a broadhead.

Cutting an arrow too short from my experience has been one of the things that limited the set up from being as forgiving as possible.  For many years I would cut arrows too short and not shoot as well.  It is not that a shorter arrow is going to shoot terrible, but if you are looking for the "best" or optimum forgiving set up, then shorter arrow, IMO is just not as forgiving.  

I take an arrow and do a check to see where it has the least amount of vibration.  Where that point is behind the arrow point is where I want the last point of contact with the shelf or end of the arrow rest.  This is usually from 2.5 to 3 inches behind the back of the point.

To check you take an arrow and rest it on the edge of a table.  Take your left hand and hold the nock.  Take your right hand and pull down to make the arrow bounce. Where the least vibration is, is the point you want touching your rest.  Really need a youtube video of this!

This is about right for me...
 

I shoot CE 4560 with a 29" draw.  I leave them full length and load up the front until they fly good.  I also use the tip in my sight picture, so full length fills the bill for me.

Best arrow length could be a short or long discussion. Factors such as anchor, type of sighting method, trajectory and other factors could all add their own twist.
Just my take:
1st you don't want arrow too short to compromise safety
2nd the arrow must fly tru
Then, your individual preference takes precedence  for your personal  site window at yardage's  you practice and plan to shoot in the field.
      Example: Tested one inch shorter arrows for kicks two days ago – I was then grouping four inches high at 25 yards. While it was nice and easy to compensate at the longer yardages, the site window was much larger than I prefer for close shots. Other's needs may dictate the desire for a longer arrow.