I just figured how to do a single V footing on my shafts.  I took full length Doug Fir and footed 6 of them with some walnut that I took from a tree we cut down 4 or 5 years ago.  They actually came out awesome.  My question is...Do I need to increase my point weight now form the 125 gr I was shooting?  I know, go out and try them, but I thought I would gather the minds that have ready figured it out.  

Also, does it matter how much footing you have infront of the splice or is it a matter of preference?

These shafts should be next to impossible to break because of doug firs strength and walnuts hardness combined.

Thanks in advance

Mike

Wow I would like to see those I would try 3 at a time and swich field tips till I found what I liked I belive you would be ok staying with that try weighing a shaft with the footing and with out it and see twhat the differance is you might need more or less depends on what you like I guess

Mike, with this heavier wood upfront you've already added more point weight. You've also got the added stiffness of the footing. So, I would first spine these shafts again and see where they're at. Let us know what they come in at. Then we will have a better understanding of how much point weight you'll need. Also need to know what bow you're shooting these out of, etc. The footed shafts I have I bareshafted them and cut from the back(of course) and found I could use the normal 145gr or 160gr heads I like to shoot...don't remember how the spine was effected though. Love to see a picture of these.  

Well actually douglas fir has a specific gravity of .36 on average and black walnut .41.  So walnut is a little heavier and a little denser but not a lot.  

Osage is .86 or example and ipe is about 1.0.

The bigger the number the heavier and denser the wood.

Mike

I cut them to be 2" to the BOP.  I will post some pictures tonight, because I have no idea how to do it from an iPod.

Are they nice enough to sell?  Not at all, but for my first attempt at footing, these 1/2 dozen are awesome in my book.  It took me 2 hours total to do it.  I came in a half hour early, tapered the shafts, and glued and clamped everything up, then at first break and lunch I planed them down to roughly where they needs to be.  During second break I chucked them in my drill press and sanded them down to finished diameter.  I used a homemade no-go gauge to get everything the same diameter.

If someone would like to post pictures for me, post your email and I will send them to you.

I sent you a PM Mike. I think you better do a tutorial on the other part of that dozen!

I just sent them to ya Snag

VERY NICE!

Tried resizing it but it got to blurry...sorry.

Let's try this again.........

Thank you.  When I get home later tonight I will post them.  We just had a watermain break, so it will be a little while.  Why they need a carpenter for a watermain break is beyond me, and especially on a holiday.  But the way I look at it, if I'm in Michigan and working life's not to bad.

You got it.   Thank you very much Snag.

Very nice!!

Hap

Very nice job Mike. I used to do this to my woodies when I'd break one right behind the point. Sure saved me a bundle on new shafts.

Wouldn't have expected these to turn out so nice. Great job! Will really shine finished w/urethane. I'd like to know how you did it?

I will do one more next week as a tutorial with pictures for all of you.  It was actually very simple.

Every one of them when i tapered them spun true with no wobbles.

Those look Great!

Pretty awesome looking job Mike    

great job Mike....

I'll be watching for the tutorial Mike! Always wanted to try this. Maybe you can inspire me to try it. If you need anymore help posting pics just let me know.  Thanks, David