About two years ago I was having trouble getting arrows to fly with out up and down.  They always show nock high.  Ken Beck told me to put on two noching points.  Now, I know why.

Took the Rod Jenkins seminar this weekend.  He was at Lancaster and they took high speed video of him shooting with ONE.  You could see at the instant of release that the arrow slid down the string.  He shoots three under and I'd guess it's worse for split - hence my above problem solved by KB and explained by RJ.

Bowmania

Yup, Ken's suggestion for two nocking points solved a similar problem for me too.  I couldn't get any arrow to fly out of my Widow PSAV without hitting the shelf unless the nocking point was so high that I couldn't get broadheads to fly right at all.  Using two nocking points allowed me to lower the nocking point by almost 1/4", and now the broadheads fly as well as field points.  By replacing those brass nocking points with simple thread wraps I saved unecessary string weight as well.  Win win!

For as long as I can remember I've always used 2 nock locators & once tuned right I've never had any flight issues.

I also like the string nock instead of the brass ones because of weight, & feel.

How far apart should the two nocking point be?

QuoteOriginally posted by medicineman:
How far apart should the two nocking point be?

What I do is set the first nock on the bottom for the approximate height I need it for tuning, then I'll have the one on top just high enough to have a little slack room for the arrow nock "this way you are not pinching the arrow nock when drawn" then adjust both up & down to fine tune the bow to the arrow.

After you tune the nocking point you can use fletch tight on the string nock to lock into place.

I had a similar conversation with Ken a few years ago with similar results. I can't thank him enough.

I've never had any problem with tuning arrows to fly. I've always used "one" brass nock and I've always set the nock height 5/8" high off the shelf. BTW, I shoot split finger. One over, two under.

I like two tie-on nocking points,been doing this for over 15 years.

i use 2. both made from dental floss. it works for me

I use two also.    


Bill

I've just started the tie on a little over a month ago cause my Little Hoots Recurve had one on that Lee did himself...I since made 3 strings and tried different string counts and I served/tied a nock above and below...I noticed the biggest difference in my arrow groups instantly...I'll "NEVER" crimp a brass nock on again and the good thing is you won't tear up your finger tips on the gloves....Now a question for the tie on that uses the 1/2 knot over then under method where most people do around 10 of the 1/2 knots...Do you pull the 1/2 knot super tite or just barely snug and then super glue after you fine tune?  I have noticed I couldn't screw mine up or down with the 1/2 knot method? That's with no super glue if I'm making any sence?  I have to say this thread has really been a great help to not just myself but lots of members here and I think before we all know it we will all have tie on nocks from here on...  

I use two tied-on adjustable also. Keefer, I use the 1/2 knot method and tug them down pretty tight. I use B-500 string material. Sometimes it takes some effort to start them turning the first time. I find that if I don't make them real tight they will sometimes get loose and sloppy. I don't super glue mine, so I need them real tight.

Two tied on knocks keeps things in place and nice flying arrows.  

I never tried two but am willing to try anything once.  Thanks for the thread and good info that flows from it.

Ditto what Night Wing said...
John

Interesting stuff.... Thanx for the tip, will have to give it a try.

Years ago, a fellow taught me how to tie a string nock, but forgot how now since I got away from it and went back to brass nocks because my string nocks kept sliding. Anyone know a pictorial on tying a string nock?

Thanx

I went to nocks above and below last winter after reading a thread on Tradgang and noticed the improvement immediately!

From the "how to" forum - tying on a nock point

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000101

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000078

I use the little rubber eliminator buttons under the nock as my second point.  It works very well and the rubber is soft on my tab, unlike a brass nockset which will chew up a tab.

Cool Bel007, thanx for linky.


Through all the years of trying this and that to learn what worked best for myself, thought I'd tried it all,,,guess not, got some more trying to do...8^)


Thanx much for sharing folks.