Ive done a search and cant find a "HOW TO". Im interested in learning how, can anyone help ?

Search "footing carbons"  

Best link is to "Friends call me Pac".

His video is excellent.  

I have footed several dozen and have put collars on one dozen and love it.

I used to foot Goldtip 55/75s with a 2216...now I just get the carbon collars from 3Rivers...they work great..

Friends call me Pac video  
  Yononindo\\'s you tube how to

Here you go.  Hope this helps!

Thanks guys !

For some reason my videos are not working.  I'll see about getting the videos running again after cutting wood tomarrow.

Pac, that would be great! i always thought it is an issue with my PC that i cant see youre vids....
Not that id need them anymore, ive build more than 4 dozen with footings and collars , but its always great to see how others do it, you never know what you might learn.

Hey Pac, First off i want to thank you for the videos.  they are very helpful.  i can see the videos but i have to go back to them in your photobucket account.  The link is not direct to the vids, its to the account itself.

By the way, just did up 10 shafts last night.  I love the toughness of the footing.  I killed my Solana buck with a footed carbon the way Pac does it.

I footed a couple of xc arrows for stumping.  Was out over the weekend and hit a piece of granite just past he target.  The Aluminum insert bent to about a 35 degree angle.  I straightened it as best I could and kept shooting.  About ten shots later the arrow ricocheted again and when I found it the judo and 50 grain brass insert were missing and the aluminum footing was sliding around the arrow, but the shaft was fine and un-cracked.  Footing seems to work well.  Now I just ave to figure out why the JB Weld didn't hold.

I don't have a video but till Pac Man gets his up,I'll briefly describe how I do it.

1.I cut the pieces with a tubing cutter.1" for the front end and a 1/4" for the nock end.
2.I lightly chamfer the inside with a countersink bit,by hand.
3.The rear edge of the front footing needs to be beveled to aid in pulling from targets.I chuck that footing in the drill press(a drill will work),turn the press on and use a mill file to turn the bevel.
4.It is worth taking the time to lightly sand shaft and footing interior with fine sandpaper,before gluing.
5.I glue with a good quality epoxy but there are other glues that would work well also.Apply the glue to the shaft and slide the footing over.This should push excess glue away from the end of the shaft as opposed to gluing inside the aluminum footing which could cause glue to be pushed into the shaft or insert.
6.It is a good idea to let the glue cure overnight or even 24 hours,regardless of set time.This gives it a chance to reach full cure.
7.Footing carbon arrows is well worth the time spent.It will make a tough arrow much tougher.

Going to try to relink the video.  Should be in order as in step by step.

I don't know if this is quite what your looking for but, I epoxy a .246 or 6mm bullet to the back of my insert it takes time to get right just make sure you rough up the surfaces.  Then when i install the insewrt i make sure to glue it and the bullet.  The bullet will just fit inside carbon shafts.  I found this to work well for weight forward as well as stengthen the shaft.


I like it?  

On Easton Axis and Bemans you can use their bar's (broadhead adaptor ring). Work just fine and no glue to mess with. Frank

I had never heard of footing and was trying to add a little weight to the end of my 500 beman ics carbons this past fall. I cut a 1.5" piece of aluminum arrow -- I believe it was 2213. I cut it with tubing cutters so it produced a little bevel on the end. I slid it over the end of the carbon shaft. The bevel on the front end of the footing acted as a stop at the insert, and a little black electrical tape on the rear end produced a smooth transition from carbon to aluminum. When I screwed the broadhead in it held it firmly in place. Certainly not a professional job but it worked fine!

I foot my Gold Tip Trad 35/55's w/ 1" - 1.5" Aluminum 2117 to toughen up the point end & add a little extra weight to the front, I also cut them with a tubing cutter which gives a slight bevel on both ends.



Makes for a very tough arrow