Has anyone had success at dipping GameGetter shafts the whole length and having the paint stay on after being shot into bales and 3 d targets? If so what paint did you use?

I have not dipped full length.  But I do have two notes to make on prepping the shaft before dipping.
First, if using a solvent to clean always use acetone rather than lacquer thinner as lacquer thinner leaves a film and acetone does not.
Second, do not touch the cleaned shaft with your fingers as they will leave oils.

The only paint I ever used on aluminum (not shafts) that stayed on through much wear was appliance epoxy spray paint.

Bohning paints were designed for use on aluminum shafts. Cleaning well is paramount to a good dip job. Use Acetone as mentioned above or MEK.

I have had pretty good luck using the Bohning Fletch-Lac paints for full length dipping.

The paint is very durable and some I dipped 40 years ago still look pretty good.

Charles.

For years I used an industrial vinyl lacquer, which required the manufacturer's thinner. It was specifically designed for aluminum and metal instruments. The local dealer was VanWaters Rogers. It had great coverage even with a thin coat. I think it was offered in light grey and white, the only negative. The local company changed or was sold. My supply dried up. You might find it by searching online, or with a paint company.

To clean shafts, I used what Easton recommended and the aircraft industry used, AJAX. Cheaper and better than anything else, use a paper towel Ajax and water, rinse and let dry. It etches, cleans and leaves no film. Do NOT use just any powdered detergent, they are not the same.

Ajax works great, just wear cotton gloves so when you handle the shaft, it doesn't pick up oil. Otherwise wash your hands with it before handling the shafts.

Bohning, it is a bit expensive, and toxic, but looks good and comes in a variety of colors, making it hard to beat.