Pure Olympic archery form works very well for what it is designed for: shooting arrows from long known distances over flat ground at a bullseye target. Long recurves and stabilizers, upright posture, and long hold times is not a good recipe for hunting.

Traditional archery hunting form was not designed by anyone.  It evolved over many years before recorded history, using shorter heavier draw weight bows unburdened by a lot of gadgets, heavy arrows, and short to non-existent hold times to be optimal for hunting game in rough terrain at short distances where hunting skills can be substituted for long-distance shooting skills.

We can learn from Olympic archery style, as long as we don't become frozen into the parts of it that were designed specifically for shooting with upright posture at long distance targets over flat ground.  For example, Terry Green has taken what is good Olympic alignment and adapted it to the needs of traditional hunting.  I don't know whether Terry invented the expression "Archery happens from the waist up," but this is definitely not something that is taught in Olympic archery training, or in training to hunt with compound bows.  It is a concept that is particularly applicable to hunting with a traditional bow in situations where uptight posture just doesn't work, and it may be necessary to bend, twist, squat and cant the bow.  I have also used this concept to teach disabled people to shoot from wheelchairs.

It's always a good idea to keep an open mind and use what works and reject what doesn't.

Quote from: Ramjet on March 16, 2026, 01:35:08 PMI really enjoyed Gene's seminar on Ishi at the PBS banquet. His collection is amazing also.

It was nice meeting you Ramjet!

Quote from: STICKBENDER98 on March 14, 2026, 03:14:32 PMI can see one of these heading to Colorado this fall,if my big bro and I are lucky enough to draw tags.  I think it'll work just as good for my elk calls. 


Jason

When we were at the PBS banquet last week, we sold at least 6 of them to elk hunters

Quote from: Crooked Stic on March 15, 2026, 08:44:05 AMI see you can buy it by gallons. Is it sprayable. Can it be used under a solvent finish like Krystal?

Stic iam not really familiar with Krystal but i think once its cured and sanded i think you could top coat with most bow finishes. They do recommend applying the least amount of product only filling the grain so I don't think you'd wanna spray it.

I buy it from a specialty finishing shop here hes also the Mirka dealer so i buy all my sand paper ect from him you should be able to find it ... it is made in the usa, i buy the smallest bottle a little goes a long ways i will fill a complete riser one coat with 2 finger dabs of finish .. i used a small flexible auto body plastic bondo spreader and that worked really good flexes around the contours of your riser leaving very little on the surface and fills the grain..... i did a wenge riser tonight 3 coats sanding in between with UV light to cure i was ready for finish spray in about an hour, sands real easy just like laquer.

A friend recently gave me a box full of archery club pins and various belt buckles. It's obvious to see where they came from but I was wondering if anyone might clue me in to why these have the red and white enamel. In a search, I can only find them without the enamel. I thought perhaps it signified a second and third place for the shoot? If so, is it possible to find who won them? The guy who gave them to me didn't know anything about them.

There was an empty plastic case among the bunch with the name Robbie Robinson.

In western WA the grey squirrel is protected. They are a pest along with several other critters. When I had a few bird feeders, the squirrels, racoons and possums would raid the feeders and knock the feeders down, which resulted in a big mess. My two dogs, did not care for the squirrels and were able to catch a few trying to escape over the fence. After I took the feeders down they ceased to be a problem and their fleas were gone too.  If I lived in Eastern WA, where there is no restriction, I would put out the feeders and shoot the squirrels. But, I would rather hunt rabbits. quail, grouse and other small game in season.

I got to him and his display at the Wisconsin traditional archery banquet a few weeks ago. Very interesting for sure.

Quote from: Rob DiStefano on March 19, 2026, 01:52:23 PM

Quote from: Coach Jones on March 19, 2026, 12:04:52 PM

Quote from: Rob DiStefano on March 18, 2026, 07:47:41 PMThe goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
 

Are you suggesting shortening the shaft and adding point weight?  Right now my arrows are just over 480 grains and bare shafts fly perfect.  My shooting is good, not new to traditional archery.  Been shooting traditional since 1992 and been bowhunting since 1984.  Just wanted to try some aluminum shafts.

Light holding weight hunting stickbows can be at somewhat of a disadvantage.  If yer holding weight is only 38lbs and yer completed arrow weight is 480 grains, then although the resulting 12.5GPP is a good killing weight it can/will limit point-on max shooting distance (as noted, you stated 12 yards).  Reducing arrow weight (both length and point) could/would allow a longer POA/POI killing distance with a lighter overall arrow, no lighter than 10GPP, more like 400 grains.  Modifying or changing form, how the bow is addressed and used, might also help.

I guess I am lost on the 12 yd statement, that was someone else that mentioned that.  My point on is 18 yds but bow shoots beautifully out to 25 yds.  However, I would never shoot at a deer at that distance with my bows, even if it was a compound.  I have killed 27 bucks in Kansas and only shot one deer outside of 20 yds.  I couldn't figure why you were talking about form but now I see you confused me with Vesty.  I bare shaft all my arrows to my bow.  I just wondered if you all thought I could tune some 1916 to my bow without going overboard with point weight. 

Blade length is 3.39 inches.

Go to the webiste.....we are giving away the turkey call of your choice with a knife purchase.

I will say it again.....the quality of this knife is amazing. I held it next to another name brand blade that I paid $300 for......our knife wins.