The thing is you don't have to cut the sight window first. Can do it after glass is glued on.
For blades I use bi-metal for everythin 6/10 variable pitch. Resaw till they show dullness then use them for fiberglass. Prolly not as good as carbide but works. Never seen a blade once hits glass will cut wood good again

I have been using that method for years.  I have never had an issue.  Only drawback is it predetermines which will be the top and bottom limb.

Cut some glass !  This idea was posted here some time ago.... apologies iam not sure who's idea it was but i thought i would try it since i haven't invested in a carbide bandsaw blade and wanting to strengthen my risers ,Cutting out the sight window and temporarily replacing it to apply glass back overlays has been working very well, thanks for the idea .

I had a one piece longbow Cocobolo ebony handle and bocote limbs made last year. I have shot several and they are all great bows. Can't go wrong no matter what you choose. I wish they still made the one piece recurve. I live close to their shop so got to go in and check everything out. They are good dudes.

Been using a black widow glove for the most part.

Have a Bateman. Ended up with two to find the right size. Index finger is loose on the one than fits best. Need to soak it water and let it dry while on hand. Got an extra glove that is a large and just sitting around unused.

American leathers was kind enough to send me two glove sizes to see what fit. Sent back the too large one. Other than shipping no extra cost. Index finger is also loose. Need to do the wet glove to dry thing on that one as well.

No adjustments needed with Black widow glove.

        

Tiller for three-under to better allow you to significantly enhance vertical stability ranges from even tiller to approximately negative 1/4" tiller. The positive tiller has you pushing towards the bottom limb. One quarter inch negative tiller is typically reserved for string walkers. I am not a string walker and 1/8-3/16" negative tiller is best for me.

I use a veneer saw also, way to go.

Excellent shot and camera work.

First post here    I have been lurking in the shadows for many years. At least since 2005 or -06 I guess, but I only registered as a member last year. Thought it was about time I said something...

Why not use the proper and best tool for the job... a Veneer Saw. These come in a few variations, but here is a link to a traditional one by Lee Valley - https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/111446-pax-veneer-saw

I have used a lot of veneer for different projects and was trained to use such a saw many many years ago at a cabinetmaking school. In cases when such a saw was unavailable (as in broken or extremely dull), I have used a Utility Knife with disposable blades like Kirkll, but I find that this also (like the rotary wheel cutter) easily can follow and run out along the grain. You have to be really careful to avoid that.
The Veneer Saw is a lot easier to use, and do not follow any grain. It simply just cut across along the line you guide it to.

I see that Chuck Deshler use one when he cuts veneer for a Two Tracks Ogemaw hybrid in a video on YT – search for "Hand Building a Longbow" by Full Quiver Outdoors on YT.