These are limbsations. Easy to apply, easy to remove with no residual adhesive gunk left behind. Very durable and they stay put until you remove them.

Really shouldn't be much difference.  Most ASLs have straight grips.  The belly side can be rounded, oval or flattened, but that's the buyer's call if it's being made for an individual. There may be a slight difference in overall bow and grip width, no more than 1/8-inch. Dished and indexed (much less common on an ASL) grips should also be very similar.  If you're having the bow built, you can specify the configuration. If not, there may be as much difference among bows of the same builder as between them. 

My first thought was how dull
Or flat will it look,  ive put real ones on before and they just stand out.  Do the limbsations come off easy with no mess?

What are you planning on hunting with this point?Wait????

I've seen and used real snake skins, the fabric stuff and onestringer's limbsations.  Nothing looks as good as the real thing, but nothing is as simple as the limbsations.  It's been a while since I used the fabric, so I don't recall how it looks compered to limbsations.  I've put the limbsations on pretty much every solid color glass bow I've owned. Up close, you can tell it's artificial, but it looks great and stays put.   

Thanks for sending the rubber bands, Norm. they work great!!

Aside from the size, are there differences between the 3D and the original?  Is one better than the other on  certain bows, or are there other factors that would make one better than the other in a given situation?

Too much of a hassle is relative. It takes just a few seconds to wrap the thread around the arrow and the orange would show up great in the snow to retrieve your first arrow or the game. If you had to have a quick follow up shot just don't tie it on and you won't be any worse off than you were Before you used it.
A great idea in my opinion(using it in the snow)

I also "tanto" 3-blade heads to beef up the point for bone penetration.  A faster way to both sharpen and tanto the tip is with a stationary belt sander (or clamp down a hand belt sander).  After laying down the BH flat on the moving belt for sharpening, slightly tilt up its butt end to best tanto angle the tip - do this for all 3 sides of the BH.

I'd look at the broadhead before getting carried away building arrows. It's simple to test. Take a piece of medium thick leather and push your single bevel stinger thru by hand on an arrow and see how much force it takes. Do the same with a double bevel cut on contact head. If the single bevel more blunt head is lots harder to push thru then there's your answer.

When I was a kid Dad had guys do this at archery shows using a piece of deer leather and a pyramid type replaceable blade head. Then he'd give them a sharp Snuffer. That simple test sold lots of heads for him.

R