If you are using wood arrows, Bear made a thin metal tool to clean and cut a slot. If your using aluminum adapters or steel, I would use a thin jig saw blade or hack saw to slot them. Before slotting, put the head on to align it then use a fine tip, or felt tip permanent marker to mark the adapter or wood so you can see the area to cut. If you use hot melt glue, use the Bear tool to clean out the slot. I am not sure what inserts you will be adding, but if the slot is a bit wide, you will need to use a drop of hot melt glue to keep the insert from dropping out.

I want to set up some Zwickey 4 Blade Broadheads.  However, when I glue one to an adapter, there's glue all in the "hole" where the bleeders are.  What do you do to keep this area clean and without gobs of glue or does it matter?

Back in 2017, Dave Gordon Jr,  of Gordon Plastics, was looking to fill a hole in his collection of bows. Somehow, the Royal Huntsman, a 54" Gordon Plastics recurve, had never been a part of his assembled bows on display at the company HQ, now located in Montrose, Colorado and I had one. After some discussion,  I sent it to Dave in exchange for an open dialog with him about the history of the company. A couple of years passed and Dave contacted me to inquire if I might know a place where he could place the collection. Gordon Plastics had recently sold to another company and they wanted the bows relocated. We finally came to the conclusion that the San Diego History Center was the best spot for them and the History Center was agreeable so I altered a planned road trip to pick up the bows in Denver from his cousin. The plan was to transport the bows from Denver to Dave's house where we would unwrap the bows and decide what was to go where. I picked up roughly 22 bows, 11 of which were to be donated to the history center. However, being a history nerd, I talked Dave into a stupor and we never got around to unwrapping the bows. Once I got home and unwrapped them, I came across this Black Widow. I immediately called Dave and explained that there were a couple of bows in the mix that I'm certain he didn't intend for me to bring home. Dave didn't hesitate in telling me to keep them for my own personal collection, in return for my efforts.

It's a 40th Anniversary, Limited Edition #87/101, 60", XLA model. Signed on the bow as being made for, Gordon Plastics Inc. At the time, GPI was still located in San Diego. Needless to say, it was a very nice reward indeed!

The goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
   

Used to.  One rig was a Dick Palmer Hunter longbow (basically a ML10 with the limbs reworked to trapezoidal) and wood flu-flus with GameNabber (I think that was the name - might have been TigerClaw) tips.  Also carry blunts when deer hunting and have popped squirrel with them.  One of the best shots I ever made was a red squirrel running along a felled hamlock trunk at around 20 yards.  His tail was on my back quiver for years . . . until I left it where a cat could reach it.  I also loke the glue-on Ace Hex Heads.  Very effective.

Had a neighbor when I lived "closer in" who owned 200 acres behind our house.  He was in his 90's and I had permission to hunt his land so long as I brought him four dressed grey squirrels annually.  He made them into delicious pot pies.


Never had an official call, but at some point someone showed me how to attract them by clicking the edge of a quarter aganst another laid flat in your palm.  Sometimes worked to get them in.  Curiosity, or maybe it sounded like another squirrel chewing nuts?

I have shot squirrels before and my set up was wood shafts with single full feather spiral fletch for squirrels up to 30' to 40' in a tree, farther than that, a 6 fletch with heavy helical. For a head my favorite was an old TradGang invention called a ""nutter, a 3/8" hex nut threaded on the tapered end. I would thread it with about 1/4" of the taper protruding and soak that end with super glue to harden it up. The extended taper would give some penetration as the nut gave the thump.

Congrats on a fine shot buddy!

I should probably add that my average shot distance is right around 12yds.

You should be fine. I'm shooting a full lenghth 1916 from my 37# N.M.Shelton and that arrow in the rib cage equals dead deer
Arrow weight 550gns

No chance of Corey ever going hungry!!