I understand what you are saying about the 3 blades not feeling as sharp, but I think they are sharper than you think. The bevel angle on a 3 blade head is, for lack of a better word, steeper. If you test broadhead sharpness by shaving arm hair (which most of us do), you need to increase angle of the broadhead in relationship to your arm when you try to shave hair. Most 2 blade bevels are 25 degrees give or take. Try it and see....I have been wrong before!

Hey folks, looking for a new head for my deer & bear hunts.

I have some VPA 3 blade heads, just can't get em to feel as sharp as I'd like. I have Diamond stones & followed the videos, just something about a 3 blade that doesn't feel that sharp.

Also, I really don't like how the VPA heads rust.

Wondering who all has tried the larger Day Six broadheads? I have the paper wheel, Stickboys on YouTube shows how to get em razor sharp with the bench grinder.

I bought 2 packs of eskimos. way back in the spring. i hunted with them for the season. i bought a scale the other day and decided to weigh my arrows and there was a difference of around 20 grains . i disected the arrows and found two different eskimos. one pack was bigger and 20 grains heavier. is this normal ? one was 132 grns the other 111. one pack was 1.25 wide the other 1 inch. one pack was 2.5 inch long the other was 2.25 long. is this normal for these types of broadheads? Ive never bought tradional 2 blades before. but I did kill a stud of a 6 point. first tradional buck. and my first doe. six point was 4.5 and was bigger than my 130 8 point. i am thankful . best hunting experience of my life , lol. They seemed to shoot the same.

Quote from: Kirkll on November 29, 2025, 10:18:50 PM

Quote from: willi on November 29, 2025, 04:44:57 PM

Quote from: Cupcake on November 11, 2025, 04:26:58 PMIn order to get a higher voltage to work for the heat strip a higher resistivity material needs to be used.  The most prevalent materials in SS all have about 9 x 10^-8 ohms per m²/m.  If we wanted to use 12 volts to run the heat strips the material would have to be about 6x higher in resistivity.

I calculate about 0.2 ohms resistance for the SS from Kirk's data.  If you run 12 volts through this strip it would dissipate 7200 watts and require 600 amps.

To get 120 watts at 12 volts requires 1.2 ohms.  One could place 0.5 ohms resistors at each end that bolt to the strip and their temperature would be put into the strip, albeit at the ends, so it is not likely to heat evenly down the strip.

Nichrome has more than 10x the resistivity of the SS so that is why it works so well.

Now that I have spent a bit more time on this problem and did a bit of math and see that we need a higher resistance material I conclude that with SS strips you need very high current and low voltage.  To use a higher voltage and lower current requires a higher resistance. V = I x R

why not calculate and adjust  the width of strip that will let the battery charger (without the voltage controller) work at 10 amps ?
(assuming the charger has enough duty cycle % at 10 amps for the length of the job)

The SS heat strips in the forms are two different widths 1.75" and 1.5" . Two strips are used. One on top, and one on the bottom, and they work as pressure strips too. For TD bows there are two 36" length strips, or 6' total length to heat up. With a one piece bow form there are two strips 6 feet long.... The longer strips need more voltage to heat them than the TD heat strips.  Adjusting width on the strips is not an option.

Kirk

keeping the widths to fit the forms seems reasonable. As cupcake has mentioned, more resistance is needed to let your charger operate more in its design range. If you do a test and attach all your available SS strips in series, what happens to the indicated amps at the charger?

I bought a handful of low to mid priced ILF components to play with, because I wanted to learn better shooting and arrow tuning techniques...so here's my 2 cents:

I'm glad I stayed with 40 & 45 lb limbs.
19" risers are just fine, even if you can't match them up with short limbs, to suit your draw length.
17" risers with built in deflex, or forward handle, IMO feel and point as well or better than the standard style 19" one I bought. (I sold my Satori clone, maybe bad machining, only able to tune 3 under)

Don't stress about picking the perfect combo for your lb's.  Even string changes can make a difference in spine if your close; same goes for shafts.  Sometimes all you'll need is to buy the stiffest or weakest brand in the same spine.  For ex: Gold Tip 5mm runs weak, and Tradition Only Barebow run stiff (color wrapped).

Yes they can be tedious but worth the effort for a 3 piece toolless assembly.

This might be similar to the Big Shot? I bought it a while ago and love it!  It's a bit like new socks though; awesome when new, but still plenty good enough when broke in.

3Rivers Archery® Stretch Lined Leather Archery Shooting Glove
Code: 51611X

Size: Medium

I usually buy L gloves for work/cold

Beautiful pictures! Thanks so much for sharing them with us!

 

Thank you McDave.  Too old to go back to school, this'll do.  I think I got lost in the 'heavier arrows shed less momentum' world.  Doesn't seem to make much difference at 0-7.  The data for 700 grain arrows seemed to be more of a bang for your buck with ft#'s.  I think I'll carry one of those for CQB ambush points, with a 3 blade.  Thanks again!

      


Jason

Quote from: Roger Norris on November 25, 2025, 08:51:41 AMI ordered a Kangaroo Krossover glove from American Leathers because of this thread. 

I spoke with the SUPER kind lady (I wish I could remember her name) and she said she had some super thin kangaroo left over from something else. She sewed up the glove for me with that....I just got notification that it shipped, full report soon.

Roger, you wont be disappointed!  I purchased a Buffalo Crossover from one of your Shrew Haven cohorts, Ray off the classifieds, it had the plastic inserts in the finger stalls, it was ok, but just wasn't for me.. Sooo I ended up on the phone with Lisa, ordering a new glove without the plastic inserts, but doubled up with leather per their recommendations.  I've been shooting it for the last 3-4 years with zero issues. 


Jason