Quote from: Orion on Today at 04:52:21 PMI've been wearing progressive lenses for years without problems, at least not the problem you describe.  I'm far sighted and the top section of the lenses don't have much correction, just a little to cleanup the vision. I don't think I tilt my head down inordinately to use this section of the lenses.

I do notice that I will get a blurry picture if I don't turn my head enough toward the target, in effect looking sideways thorough of the lenses rather than straight througn them.  I consider this a good thing.  It reminds me to turn my head more toward the target.

I believe you are on to something here. I can usually get a dozen arrows off wearing my glasses, without blurring. Pretty sure I'm not keeping my head down enough when things go blurry. My lenses are relatively small so they get into the progressive section quickly and a very small head move at distance makes a big difference. As you say, it might be a good thing and a reminder to keep my head right!

Pretty slick trick!  My brain was thinking along the lines of a makeshift collet.  Where there's a will there's a way.  I just watched a guy with 1 arm shoot with a mouth-tab! Prayers for you.

Using a thumb ring by chance?

Quote from: Otto on Today at 05:09:06 PM

Quote from: BAbassangler on Today at 11:31:28 AMI disagree. Linseed oil is natural and works on wood regardless of its purpose and will accept many topcoats.
Mind is open though. Do you have experience negatively affecting an arrow?

I've refinished several walnut gunstocks with Linseed oil.  Hand rubbed, 10 coats, and it makes a beautiful finish.    The trouble is, it takes FOREVER to dry.  On something like a gunstock, it's gorgeous and worth the effort.  For arrow shafts, that juice ain't worth the squeeze.  MinWax Tung oil or any kind of poly is MUCH easier to work with and dries overnight.

You're right about squeezing juices; it may take longer if it soaks in much.  Boiled linseeed oil evaporates much quicker.  Don't know why they call it boiled, I think it's just mixed with mineral spirits.

Hello everyone.I recently joined this forum and am really enjoying reading the posts. Tons of valuable knowledge on this forum. Well being new I should introduce myself with a little info about me. I'm an old guy. I've been shooting and hunting with longbows and recurves for 58 years except for a 2 month stint with a Browning Compound bow back in the early 1980's. Quickly woke up and got rid of it. LOL Although I own lots of aluminium and recently carbon arrows, I have always preferred wood shafts. I have tail tapered my shafts for many years because in my opinion they fly really good. A recent very bad health diagnosis has meant I can no longer draw my collection of recurves and longbows. I ordered a short laminated Turkish style recurve in 40# weight just so I could keep shooting. Now to the title of this thread. I found through historical research that barrelled shafts were customary for this style bow.When making arrows for it I tail tapered the shafts as usual by turning them in an electric drill and running then in my sanding jig. Tapered from 11/32 to 9/32 over 10 inches. The front taper to 5/16 over 6 inches was much more difficult. Researched extensively on the net for how to hold the small 9/32 end in the drill without damaging it. Everybody's advice was to wrap many layers of masking tape on the end of the shaft to avoid drill chuck damage. I hated that idea and needed to come up with a simple shaft holder. What I did was buy some 1/4 inch heavy rubber gas line. OD.was over 1/2 inch and wouldn't fit my chuck so I screwed a 5/16 bolt 2 inches long into a 3 inch length of the tubing and then cut off the head. Chucked it in my drill, inserted the 9/32 shaft in the other end an voila. It works so good I thought I would post it here in case someone else can benefit. Very sorry for the too long post.

I also had Lasik, so my distance vision is great - I have a cheap pair of reader bifocals with clear glass on top and my reading strength on the bottom. Works out OK in the tree stand if I need to read or see something up close.

Quote from: buckeyebowhunter on December 27, 2025, 09:49:58 PMI'm not sure you can actually get rid of it entirely, but as someone mentioned there are a lot of band aid type remedies and drills that can alleviate the symptoms.

I've found that a clicker will almost immediately entirely eliminate it for me, that is until my brain learns to anticipate the click. If my shooting is suffering horrendously I will use a clicker but almost as a last resort. I despise having them on my bow, not only are they ugly but the crutch idea bothers me for some reason.

I've found that the pressure of hitting a target is what spawns TP for me. The more I want it, the worse it gets.

If I really bare down and talk myself through each phase of my shot I can almost always make it happen, this requires a ton of mental focus that can get downright exhausting and tricky to do on game or in front of crowds. This is part of the reason I don't shoot as much 3D as I used to, TP can definitely suck the fun out of something that should be so simple and enjoyable.

Negative.  TO is entirely curable.  MANY years ago...maybe close to 30 yrs ago, a fellow on here named Jim Casto published his method to kill TP and it worked for me.  It is a slow process.  If I recall, it takes a few months.  But it's not a bandaid.  It is a permanent cure.  I'll see if I can locate it and post it.

Hooks, hanging from the rafters in the basement.

This debate has been going on since the first caveman knapped a 3 blade head.

Quote from: BAbassangler on Today at 11:31:28 AMI disagree. Linseed oil is natural and works on wood regardless of its purpose and will accept many topcoats.
Mind is open though. Do you have experience negatively affecting an arrow?

I've refinished several walnut gunstocks with Linseed oil.   Hand rubbed, 10 coats, and it makes a beautiful finish.    The trouble is, it takes FOREVER to dry.   On something like a gunstock, it's gorgeous and worth the effort.   For arrow shafts, that juice ain't worth the squeeze.   MinWax Tung oil or any kind of poly is MUCH easier to work with and dries overnight.

I've been wearing progressive lenses for years without problems, at least not the problem you describe.  I'm far sighted and the top section of the lenses don't have much correction, just a little to cleanup the vision. I don't think I tilt my head down inordinately to use this section of the lenses.

I do notice that I will get a blurry picture if I don't turn my head enough toward the target, in effect looking sideways thorough of the lenses rather than straight througn them.  I consider this a good thing.  It reminds me to turn my head more toward the target.