Thanks, Kirk. I appreciate your time and advice.
Andy

EW Bateman makes a fine glove made from cordovan. I have 3 but am still using the original one I bought in 2012 the others are for backups if I ever lose one or wear one out. I have tried tabs a few times just not for me. The Bateman glove works great and is thick enough for good protection. I do not need or want to "feel" the string I just want a slick consistent release and this one works.

That might work fine.......As far as stack height goes, a new design is always a crap shoot. But you already know that.   What limb design are you using?

Honestly... I've never built a bow with an .006 FT. My long bow risers are much longer, and have a reflex / deflex shape. So I'm not going to be much help to you really.

 The only Hill style bow I built that got decent performance at moderate draw weights with no hand shock, had an 18" riser, 004 FT, power lams, 8" tip wedge, and 3" of back set. But.... The HH fan club wasn't interested in them at all, so I quit building them.

    Kirk

I do have a sled with a built in PL. might be able to use that.

How much have you shot since putting the quiver on?
Years ago when I first put a Selway quiver on my longbow I found that my arrows were impacting 4 to 6" left.
RH shooter. After I continued to shoot my brain reprogrammed and I started hitting good.
Now I can take my quiver off and shoot and put it on and shoot the same with no issues.
The added weight on your bow doesn't allow the same side movement when you shoot.

I'm using about a 3/4" backset for my 66-68" forms. 1 1/8" @ fades, 1/2" @ grooves, riser 14 1/2"

I used to use bow quivers on all of my bows but quite a while ago I haven't been using a bow quiver on my bows. I definitely like the feel of it. I tuned things without using a bow quiver. I'm using a side quiver now .
The downside to not using a bow quiver, in my personal opinion, is that it is not as convenient and "compact" while hunting.
I decided to put on my Selway quick detach quiver , well below the fade outs, and my arrows were definitely not flying the same. The whole dynamic of my setup had changed.
Is there anyway around this because I really don't want to switch arrow setups .

As a self taught archer I have had to search for answers to many aspects of this sport.  With no instructors or coaches, I relied heavily on what I could read in books or online.  When I was trying to figure out my target panic issues there were many bandaid type fixes and lots of folksy remedies. What eventually worked for me (which I found here on the forums) was Jim Castro Jr "system" for basically renovating your shot process.  It seems to be primarily centered around grooving your subconscious to get to anchor and hold before moving to aiming and release.
I could never divide all the small steps of a shot. And Castro's method was built around methodical, repetition and building muscle memory to get the desired pause at anchor before moving on toward release.  It involves a rigorous schedule that must be followed strictly for 63 days.  It worked for me and I still practice with his system.  I must emphasize that the schedule must be followed strictly and completely to get good results.  It seems a bit weird at first but it changed my sloppy shooting technique to a much more controlled, methodical, accurate shot.

Is the unstrung profile straight? Or do you have some reflex in the form?

By using the reverse taper you will be adding a lot more mass weight to the limb tips. You may be better off just using an 8" tip wedge to stiffen the tips, and drop down to an .004FT with a narrow profile.

The ASL designs with straight profile unstrung are typically lacking in preload and difficult to build with any decent performance and eliminating hand shock until you start getting up around 60-70# draw weights. The lighter weight bows  are  pretty shocking. Not enough string tension at brace to stop the limbs forward motion.   .02 cents worth.