amazon. https://www.amazon.com/SOLAREZ-Believe-Lacquer-Sealer-Waiting/dp/B07NBWQ3PN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TN00A17J4RON&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c1W8rQ1kyQgY8zAiDFvTih-Ldaix3KXlQk2_uy4jmD9vuYJJtHkyeueobrIdXApMvSnx7mCeIhL-ISpWyl31trCSkKG0vVTtEBJtjDlWkr2gSwC9DIg9qLPWgla7-EewD91_u-KREHkzmOFOFOlU0jOSYg61Szmi_tZ-dDnglIdHf6RYy5hk-bxjf14W0tJuo2VoI9G94Q_k3SReHdCcZsSaBvBAkx5SfG5vkVeCz_KkIW6u1YReA_jIg5R70WqQcwijxM4eDiGs_aXPZV-lHSwqJsc2FgWry7-U6AHihIk.o8RSZbGiUU29vYlIlndE76XkUfBsbI9GAHAYMTNJ2LQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=solarez%2Bgrain%2Bfiller&qid=1773946721&sprefix=solorez%2Bgrain%2Bfiller%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-4&th=1

Quote from: Bryan Adolphe on March 18, 2026, 12:54:32 AMSolorez does have a few different products this is labeled as grain filler its is actually very thin and the idea is to only fill the crevices and leave very little on the surface , put it under the light or better yet in the sun and ready to sand in a few minutes i use alot of wenge and its been working well I apply it with my finger and wipe the contours of the riser with a strip of stretch wrap, (idea i got from Rob Nicoll its quite brilliant 😊 and then spray my auto clear finish.

So where do i buy some like yours? i can't seem to find it on their website... gotta link?
Wenge is tough to fill just using a lacquer base filler. i've used an epoxy / acetone slurry before, but it's a mess and needs to dry over night.

Quote from: Coach Jones on Today at 12:04:52 PM

Quote from: Rob DiStefano on March 18, 2026, 07:47:41 PMThe goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
 

Are you suggesting shortening the shaft and adding point weight?  Right now my arrows are just over 480 grains and bare shafts fly perfect.  My shooting is good, not new to traditional archery.  Been shooting traditional since 1992 and been bowhunting since 1984.  Just wanted to try some aluminum shafts.

Light holding weight hunting stickbows can be at somewhat of a disadvantage.  If yer holding weight is only 38lbs and yer completed arrow weight is 480 grains, then although the resulting 12.5GPP is a good killing weight it can/will limit point-on max shooting distance (as noted, you stated 12 yards).  Reducing arrow weight (both length and point) could/would allow a longer POA/POI killing distance with a lighter overall arrow, no lighter than 10GPP, more like 400 grains.  Modifying or changing form, how the bow is addressed and used, might also help. 

Quote from: Rob DiStefano on March 18, 2026, 07:47:41 PMThe goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
 

Are you suggesting shortening the shaft and adding point weight?  Right now my arrows are just over 480 grains and bare shafts fly perfect.  My shooting is good, not new to traditional archery.  Been shooting traditional since 1992 and been bowhunting since 1984.  Just wanted to try some aluminum shafts.

I hunted them a lot when I was younger. Now I will take a shot when they venture close enough to my deer stand.
I use Ace blunts or a broadhead if I'm shooting toward the ground. Never cared for fluflu arrows as I felt they drained too much energy from the arrow. Squirrells are tough critters.
Otherwise I used to take a back quiver full of old, misc arrows with blunts on them and didn't care if they got lost. I have too many arrows.

I use Devon two part epoxy when glueing my 4 blades Zwickey on wood and aluminum I just wipe off excess glue with paper towel 

I like a trash bag with a paper plate size hole cut out. As long as you're on target it never wears out  :^)

Congratulations. Let's see the tips too!

Hey thank you for your info on this  , there always seems to people with more information about arrow spine selection in this form of archery , because it seems to be more critical to the way our bow shoots?

That makes sense to me , this my opinion you know how that goes, but I feel people are trying maybe to add Olympic archery form into their shot ?