From 1994-2014, I shot right handed...and was a bit of a snap shooter, but I made anchor and did well shooting about 6" groups or so out to about 20 yards or so, and could shoot further but was not consistent at further distances...that is UNTIL I wanted to be more deliberate and improve my grouping for consistent performance. Well, after shooting 10,000's if not 100,000's arrows over all those years, I had so much muscle memory that it was very difficult to change my style...and I got "target panic" as I approached full draw battling the last few inches of draw thinking, "don't let go at anchor." And while some days could do okay, other days I really struggled, and before too long it seemed like things really went south as I battled it and I could not over come it.

Since I am slightly left eye dominant (when I draw a bow, I can see the arrow under whichever eye I am drawing over and eye dominance is not a sight picture issue for me like it is for some), I decided to switch to shooting left handed, and have never had an issue. I can shoot fast or slow and have complete control. I have been shooting this way since 2014.

I have some old archery equipment that is right handed (back quiver, an armguard that has a compass on the top visible side of the forearm, that when used on the opposite arm is useless as it is on the bottom side)...and well, I wanted to try to shoot right handed again and figured with all the time off, I would be able to. Well...nope, those old neurons still remember "autofire." LOL.

I could always just say screw it and just shoot left handed, and in fact I do plan on shooting left handed 90% of the time, but I would like to overcome the issue even if just for personal reasons.

For those of you that beat the target panic battle, what helped you do so? Thanks.

NOTE: Photo of me and Bob Wesley back in 1998.

      

Onestringer has wraps up to 10".  Might be worth trying them?

Wow great info and pics,,,, how about a dealer someone mentioned pine hollow?

I was originally referring to a bowyer that sid these cloth skins as a 150.00 option,,, but now im wondering about putting a couple sets on bows i have. 

I sure am.

Still looking for BCY X material?

Here's a couple with sun on em.

Positive Tiller: Top limb distance is greater than the Bottom limb distance (common in Olympic recurves). (Example - top limb tiller is 7-1/8", bottom limb tiller is 7")

Neutral Tiller: Top distance = Bottom distance (equal). (Example - top limb tiller is 7", bottom limb tiller is 7")

Negative Tiller: Bottom limb distance is greater than the Top limb distance (bigger gap at the bottom). (Example - top limb tiller is 7", bottom limb tiller is 7-1/8")

Quote from: M60gunner on December 11, 2025, 01:44:13 PMI am confused by what the difference is between "string walking " ,"fixed crawl" and "point on" means in realation to shooting various distances? I can see advantages but in a hunting scenario I may not know the exact range. Help

string walking = having the arrow nock held onto the string with a pair of string nock points so that the actual 3FU grip can be applied anywhere below those nock points ... the arrow point becomes the aiming "sight".

fixed crawl = setting up a bow so that at least one string arrow nock point will be "point on" at a specific distance, the forefinger of the 3FU grip will always touch the arrow's nock.

In both of the above, there typically will be negative tiller to the bottom limb in order to compensate for its increased draw.

Fixed crawl means that you find a string location somewhere, maybe 1/2", below the normal string location, such that if you grip the string there you can aim point on at your desired hunting distance, maybe 20 yards.  You mark that location by serving down to it, or putting a separate string nock there, so you can find it easily in a hunting situation.  Typically, if you chose 20 yards, you would still be in the kill zone if you are standing anywhere from 15-25 yards away from the target.

Point on means the distance where you can use the point of the arrow to aim without gapping.  That is, the distance where you can put the point of the arrow on the spot you want to hit, and you will hit that spot if you do everything else correctly.  For example, my point on without using a fixed crawl is about 45 yards.

String walking is a more complicated way of using a crawl (a variable crawl, so to speak), so that you know for any distance up to your normal point on distance where to hold the string to hit the spot at that distance.  For example, to string walk and hit the spot at 30 yards, I might have to hold the string 3/8" down from my normal hold under the arrow.  This distance is usually measured in stitches on a tab, so for my example, 3/8" might be 3 stitches.  This is a normal way of aiming in bare bow, but most people would think it is too complicated to use in a hunting situation.