Any hot melt while I am figuring it out.....JB Weld once I know things are permanent.

Gents,
Thank you!
I'll post more when I have made some progress.

Quote from: Cupcake on November 04, 2025, 07:50:31 PMFrom Kirk's voltage reading we can determine what power supply can be used for heat strips.

I had asked a few years back if anyone using heat strips could tell me what voltage and current was applied to the strips but no one could tell anything other than "I set this to this and that to that" and off we go.

So, with 50 amps and 2.43 volts the results in 121.5 watts of power dissipated in the heat strips.  That seems very reasonable to me; 120 watts is a lot of power and when concentrated in the strips will result in a lot of heat.

There are many power supplies that can be used.  I would recommend a 300 watt power supply, but higher wattage cannot hurt.  If you run 12 volts at 10 amps you get 120 watts. 

A quick web search results in a bunch of 0-30 volt, 10 amp, supplies that will work for less than $100.  A higher current supply might be more desirable.  Look for a supply that has current and voltage that can be set.  Any voltage and current combination that gives you 120 watts will work. W = V x A.

BTW Kirk, the way you are using the battery charger is probably why they don't last.  Those chargers want to put out 6, 12 or even 24 volts.  Running at full 50 amp current at such low voltage with other than 110 volts AC on the input is making the regulator circuitry do unnatural acts and something will fail.

I decided not to change to heat strips because I don't make that many bows and my easy bake oven works just fine.

Wow!  I haven't seen you post on an archery forum in years. I remember some interesting debates years ago on a different forum.  How is life treating you?

I'd definitely be interested in exploring a different power supply to heat my stainless steel heat strips.... But how would you control the temp if you are not using a voltage regulator? Electricity isn't my strong suit....  Kirk

You have a good quality string already.  Follow the advise above as to lowering your brace height. Your bow will "tell" you when you have it right.  Play with your brace height adjusting it up and down in small increments and see what your bow tells you.  Also as asked above, what is your arrow weight?

The wood grain is stunning 👍

I just looked at the Oberon longbow online, I didn't realize it was a an R-D long bow as opposed to a straight limbed  ASL type bow.  I have a a Toelke Whip that is of similar design it prefers a brace height of about 7-3/8". So maybe start at 7" and work up from there, that's probably more realistic for an R-D bow.

Quote from: Bearcat1960 on November 05, 2025, 06:32:37 PMThank you Trad_Bowhunter1965 that is what I was looking for and I think I'll give it a try.
Thank you to everyone else for the welcoming posts. I really feel that this forum will be a great place for me. I'll try to fit in and learn the ropes, and will participate when I feel I can add value. It feels like meeting and conversing with new hunters around the evening fire at a hunting camp or having coffee and a bs session with the group of other local oldtimers at the coffee shop.

Are you building your arrows from a board? if so I have a dvd made by Jim and Connie Renfro of Traditional Archery product it covers start to finish if you want it DM me your address,

Like stated above brce high is to high I run mine 6.5", how heavy is your arrow how far down are your string silencers, 

Pretty straight from where you deflexed until the tips is good for the R/D bows. Keep the last 6 inches nice and stiff on either end tiller slowly from the mid limb.  Take extra width out of the tips when its mostly tillered out but not enough to make them start bending too much, can also trap the back as the limb tapers to the tip to get some more extra weight off and get that bow snappy.  Never worked with scrub oak before so take that into account.

WOW!