Back Quiver Build Along - St Jude...(photos have been restored-)

[Brianlocal3]

Well I moved the strap over more towards center and BINGO!!

Took me 30 sec to solve the headache I've had for a year. Lol

Thanks a bunch.

[Bud B.]

The quiver will let you know Tim how much it wants. Go with even moderate coats at first. Let it sit and soak. The you'll be able to see the areas that need more. Remember the edges and holes will soak more rapidly than the hide face and back. Brush it down inside and out with less on the inside. I pour it onto my palm and then work it in that way on the inside. It's messy but effective. An even distribution is desired, but after a week or two you'd be surprised how it evens out. And yes, you can get too much, as will be evident in your clothing when you wear it. Better to go too light with several treatments than douse it and have leather treating remorse. It'll also looked streaked in places, but give it time to try to balance itself out, then apply more where needed. The strap takes oil much more quickly. So do the laces.


Good deal Brian!! I have tried the lower wearing of the quiver but it just didn't work for me as good as having the top strap centered on the quiver body. I'm far from proficient, but way away from novice.

[Hermon]

Tracking indicates that the quiver should be waiting at my door when I get home tonight!
 

[Bud B.]

 

I have a feeling some arrows will be loosed in just a short while  

[Hermon]

You are correct Bud!  The quiver is great!

When I got off work I hurried home to try it out.  It is the first back quiver that I have had that wasn't a chore for me to get the arrows out of.  

I spent the best part of an hour out shooting with it.  When I finished I came inside to put some leather treatment on it.  Bud said that Neetsfoot oil would work and I happened to have some on hand.  Was pleasantly surprised to find a nice inscription on the bottom of the quiver form Bud.  Applied the oil as Bud said above and went out and shot a little more.  It is already starting to conform to my back.  Will let this coat soak in for a couple days and then give it another application.

Thank you Bud for the very generous donation and the very informative build along.  I will take good care of your creation and enjoy using it for many years to come and then pass it along to one of my grandkids someday.

[Bud B.]

[Azwatasha]

           
lets see a pic Hermon!             please

[Hermon]

I will take a picture tomorrow when I can get some better light.

[Hermon]

Here are a couple pics of the great quiver Bud made.
I have given it one treatment of oil and will do several more over the next few weeks.

[JEFF B]

hey Bud that quiver is awesome real nice work  

[Bud B.]

I hope to see that quiver next to a nice Kansas buck this fall and Tim's next to an Arizona elk.



Thanks again all. It's been real fun. I'm already looking forward to the next St. Jude auction time. I had a great time building these two.

[Hermon]

I'm going to do my best to make that happen Bud!

[SlowArrow]

Thanks for your tutorial Bud!!  I'm researching where to get some nice leather now

[Bud B.]

Forgot to cover the treating...sorry.


Treating the leather:

If the leather is "green" (untreated) vegetable tanned leather, then I like to wet form the quiver before adding any oils.

Wet forming is just what it sounds like. Wet the quiver, not a dripping soak, or a light rub of a damp cloth, but wet it so it's pliable. Wear it when pliable to get the shape you want and use your hands if necessary to form it to your needs. Be careful not to crease the sides where the body begins to collapse, but rather allow the body to collapse with a nice rolled over transition from front to back.

Let dry completely.

When dry, treat it with your favorite leather treatment

Mink Oil paste
Montana Pitch Blend
Neetsfoot oil
Fiebing's Aussie Conditioner with bee's wax (what I use mostly)
Pure Olive Oil

Basically anything that does not have petroleum distillates in it, such as Neetsfoot Compound.

Treat it and flex it. Let the treatment soak in.
Repeat/treat/flex until the desired look/feel is reached. The more treatment you put on it, the darker the leather will get. You can do too much. If you do too much, the treatment will trasfer to your clothing easily.

You can also treat after cutting out your leather parts but prior to punching any holes on your leather. Then after you get the desired soak of treatment, punch the holes and assemble. Treating with punched holes can allow the treatment to soak into the holes more so than the leather surface of the body. It can look splotchy.

I use a cheap paint brush to apply the oil/treatment. Sometimes I use my bare hands.

This is where my wife gets upset occasionally. The kitchen table gets oiled alot. Use old towels as a work surface, if possible, on top of your workbench, countertop, table. Keep the wife happy.

[soap creek]

Thanks for a great build-a-long Bud. Very informative and easy to follow instructions. I had purchased some leather previously and was planning to build a couple quivers, never having built any before, with your help my 1st one turned out great. Your the man.

[Bud B.]

Post up some pics Greg     I just finished one for myself. It was the other half of Glenn's hide for his quiver. Already got it broken in.

Tim sent me a nice pic of him out stumping. Too nice a pic to not share.

[Bud B.]

Posting for Greg - aka soap creek










Well done Sir!!  Very well done!!

 

[soap creek]

I'll bet some of you didn't know we had hillbillies in S.E. Iowa lol. Thanks for posting the pics Bud.

[Azwatasha]

Hey Greg, that is one NICE quiver You built there Sir! Bud is very VERY helpful.He made me an absolute Beauty! Just to let You know, the JD Berry Vixen I got from You is still smoken' them arrows!

Bud,
Got a question for You, I believe I have enough olive oil saturated into the quiver, judging by my clothes, I painted on four coats and it seems to be breaking in very nicely. I'm working the center section, trying not to kink it.
My question is,
with the olive oil, should I still use a leather conditioner for the break-in?
Sorry for any ignorance, but I don't know any different.
Here's to You Bud!                    

Tim

[Bud B.]

You can use either, but once break-in arrives, or just before, you may want to switch over to a waterproofing conditioner, like mink oil paste. But also keep in mind, even when treated with waterproofing, leather will intake rain if subjected to it enough. I got caught in a downpour in Georgia last year. I think my organs were saturated. The back quiver did eventually dry out though. So did I.

Yesterday I put a heavy coat of Neetsfoot on mine that I just built. It was nice and evenly dark brown. Today it's back to the medium tone.

For yours, I'd say back off and begin working the body of the quiver to make it flex like you want. Give it a few days. If after that you think it needs more, then apply more. When it's there, an occasional treatment before hunting season starts is good, but only if needed. I have one quiver I treated so much I haven't put anything on it past that initial break-in. It's still good and flexible and doesn't transfer any oil to my clothing. I made this quiver (in the vid below) out of 7/8oz bull hide and out of the same hide I made one for a friend in NY. He asked about break-in. I made a short vid for him.