Sharpening Simmons on Wood Shafts

[NBK]

Picked up a half dozen Safari 160's with the intent of putting them on some wood shafts.
My question is do you sharpen them prior to gluing onto the shaft? and if so, how do you then sharpen in the field?
Anybody who removes them from the shaft to resharpen?  Seems counter-intuitive, but looking at Landshark's method and also the rada-wheel it seems like taking them off would almost be necessary.
Thanks.

[LCH]

I use the screw ons and sharpen them on the shaft with the steel master and the razors edge and jewel stick. LCH

[Biathlonman]

Rada wheels while on the shaft

[CDorton]

I use screw ons and sharpen with the rada with them still on the shaft.

[NBK]

Thanks Brad.  Do you have to turn the arrow around and pull through "front to back" to get the back third of the blade? or can you just pull the whole thing back to front.  Also, did you have to change the factory bevel prior to using the Rada?

[Kris]

Hi Mike,

I was going to send this to you and now seems like a good time (per our discussion at banquet).  This may or may not work for you but I use it to touch up mine on the shaft (even though this is a carbon and un-screwable).  Also this is a Centaur Big Game head but the concept is the same.

I cut a 8" PVC pipe in half and screwed it to a board.  I then adhere wet/dry sandpaper to the curvature (radius) of the pipe by wetting it.  I then pull or push my BH over the abrasive and fix the angle of the blade by only using my hands.  It helps to blacken the existing bevel with a magic marker to evaluate your angle of engagement.  Not precise but it does hone to a very nice edge when you acquire "the touch".  I typically start with 400 grit and move to 600.  Sometimes I finish with my paper wheel grinder and rouge.  Note:  no wet/dry paper on "jig" in photos.  I also hold the BH when sharpening with both hands to establish the correct angle; my handhold in photos is for clarity.

Its not something one would likely carry in the field, obviously but you could certainly have it in camp.

For field touch-up, I use one of those very small, Mill Bastard, triangular files.  Using the narrow tip, I file as I would any other BH.

Food for thought perhaps.  Not perfect but another tick for your bag.

Kris


   
   
   

[Charlie Lamb]

You don't have to change the factory grind when using the RADA.

If I'm careful I find that I can get so close to the back of the edge that I don't have to worry about turning the head around.

[CDorton]

I sharpen mine on the rada pulling back to front.

[Mr. fingers]

Smiths BH wrench it's cheap and it works in the field. It worked way better than my accusharp.

[ChuckC]

Hold the arrow and pull the RADA.  Reverse it or whatever you need, but pull the device, not the arrow.

ChuckC

[Blaino]

I use a 1/4" chainsaw file and hit the back half with an AccuSharp. Lots of ways to skin a cat though....

[Biathlonman]

Just got them a week or so ago. Haven't tried flipping them around yet, rada seems to work fine just pulling back to front.  The RADA is cheap, try one!  I'll buy it if you don't like it.

[NBK]

Thanks brad.  We will just put it as a down payment on the next bow I will buy from you!  (Guys got great taste).

[Biathlonman]

Just put up a beautiful t/d shrew in the classifieds, I'll throw in a rada for you...lol

[steadman]

Like said, rada for field. Works real well!