Bitzenberger/Fletching

[kat]

I had the same problem when I first started using mine.
The more I used it, and adjusted on it, the better it became.
You can get the feather to lay flat with the right adjustment of the upper and lower knobs.
IMO it is well worth the learning curve.

[Yellow Dog]

Need to get it adjusted correctly. No need to modify the jig or clamp. Here's pics of my set up for LW helical on GoldTip 5575's. It takes some tweaking but once you find the right spot all is good. I would think just reverse the settings for RW.

 

 

 

[Sean B]

X2 what Yellow Dog said.  Once you figure it out, it works great.  Been using mine for over 20 yrs

[iohkus]

Originally posted by Dog Walker:
   

Originally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently  always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
  Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.

Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge?  Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting. [/b]

Sanding AT the bevel, yes, not sanding OFF the bevel. First, check your clamp by laying it on a flat surface (as if you were setting it down onto a shaft). If you can see no light between the clamp and the flat surface then there is no need to sand the clamp. If there IS light showing, lightly sand, on a flat surface, (holding the clamp vertical) until there is no light showing. You may have to re-establish the knife-edge bevel with a file. Sanding your clamp won't ruin it (at least it didn't mine).



 In this pic. the bevel is still there all the way across the edge of the clamp, it just doesn't show because of the way the clamp twists.

[Yellow Dog]

Once you get it set up correctly you can go from skinny carbons to big fat aluminum's without having to touch a thing. It's all about getting it set up to the centerline of the shaft.

[iohkus]

Originally posted by iohkus:
 

Originally posted by Dog Walker:
   

Originally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently  always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
  Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.

Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge?  Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting. [/b]

Sanding AT the bevel, yes, not sanding OFF the bevel. First, check your clamp by laying it on a flat surface (as if you were setting it down onto a shaft). If you can see no light between the clamp and the flat surface then there is no need to sand the clamp. If there IS light showing, lightly sand, on a flat surface, (holding the clamp vertical) until there is no light showing. You may have to re-establish the knife-edge bevel with a file. Sanding your clamp won't ruin it (at least it didn't mine).

 

 In this pic. the bevel is still there all the way across the edge of the clamp, it just doesn't show because of the way the clamp twists. [/b]

Look at it this way, you're not setting your clamp onto a surface that has a hump or dip in it, but onto a straight flat surface.

[iohkus]

Sorry about the double post.  

[Scattergun2570]

Originally posted by longstiks:
For a R helical start with the top knob all the way to the right and the bottom one all the way to the left and work in slowly from there till you hit the sweet spot and the whole quill sits on the shaft
Denny

Are we saying that I can achieve this with the quill flush against the clamp?

[Scattergun2570]

Originally posted by iohkus:
 

Originally posted by Dog Walker:
   

Originally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently  always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
  Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.

Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge?  Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting. [/b]

Sanding AT the bevel, yes, not sanding OFF the bevel. First, check your clamp by laying it on a flat surface (as if you were setting it down onto a shaft). If you can see no light between the clamp and the flat surface then there is no need to sand the clamp. If there IS light showing, lightly sand, on a flat surface, (holding the clamp vertical) until there is no light showing. You may have to re-establish the knife-edge bevel with a file. Sanding your clamp won't ruin it (at least it didn't mine).

 

 In this pic. the bevel is still there all the way across the edge of the clamp, it just doesn't show because of the way the clamp twists. [/b]

seems crazy to have to modify the clamp like that. and yes there is light under the clamp when I put it on a flat surface,,calling Bitzenberger tomorrow to see what the deal is.

[Dog Walker]

Thanks iohkus. Funny, owned Bitz's for 40 years but never thought to do that.  I will check my clamps later today. Makes perfect sense, tho.

[bow doctor]

This is how I got my bitz's to all fletch alike. Set clamp so it makes contact with shaft. Install feather, make sure there are no gaps. After you have fletched arrow and all looks good, I take a scrap piece of that particular size arrow,wrap with masking tape and scribe a line along clamp,keep for future use. As you do different size arrows and make adjustments do the same with them.