Wraps on arrows?

cornfedkiller · September 26, 2011, 07:45:00 PM

Hey fellas-

New to the forum, and new to traditional archery. Just ordered my first recurve the other day, and Im looking forward to learning how to shoot recurves and maybe do a little small game hunting, stump shooting, etc..

Anyways, I have a question about arrows. I am going to shoot carbon arrows, and Im wondering if I can use arrow wraps like I do with my compound arrows? I dont see why not, but you guys are the ones to ask..

Also, what feather size do you guys suggest? 3 or 4 feathers?

Thanks guys!

DannyBows · September 26, 2011, 07:53:00 PM

I use wraps on all my carbons. It makes it much easier to re-fletch, and I like bright colors like chartreuse or Pink for visibility.

I prefer to use 4-4" feathers, usually shield-cut or parabolic. Experiment, it's part of the fun, and you'll find what flies well for you and what look strikes your fancy.

Welcome!

LONGSTYKES · September 26, 2011, 08:02:00 PM

Ditto with DannyBows, I always wrap my carbons and I also shoot 4 fletched 4" feathers.

Shawn Leonard · September 26, 2011, 08:36:00 PM

I myself use wraps and shoot 3-5" feather or 3-4" Feathers. Put as much helical on them as your arrow and jig will allow. Shawn

cornfedkiller · September 26, 2011, 08:39:00 PM

Thanks guys..

And do you leave your carbon arrows full length, or do you cut them?

Onlyaspike · September 26, 2011, 08:43:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Shawn Leonard:
I myself use wraps and shoot 3-5" feather or 3-4" Feathers. Put as much helical on them as your arrow and jig will allow. Shawn

X2 on the wraps and fletches.....Dont worry about cutting your arrows until you bare shaft tune....you can work on point weight and shaft length then.

cornfedkiller · September 26, 2011, 08:58:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Onlyaspike:
X2 on the wraps and fletches.....Dont worry about cutting your arrows until you bare shaft tune....you can work on point weight and shaft length then.

And Im assuming that is after quite a while once I am shooting it accurately and consistently?

And can you give me a quick overview/summary of what bareshaft tuning does/is for and what changing point weight and shaft length does with a recurve? Or a link to somewhere that it is explained?

Man I have alot to learn :confused:

LostNation_Larry · September 26, 2011, 09:39:00 PM

Bare shaft tuning is a method of tuning your arrow for the best flight from your bow with your draw length. Whenever you change your arrow, by changing the shaft, the length, or the point weight (and some other things) you change how that arrow responds to the bow. When you have a perfect setup you will find the arrow flies well even if it does not have fletching on it.

Your assumption is correct. You need to practice quite a while before you try bare shaft tuning. If your shooting form is inconsistent, you will not be able to accurately judge your results.

DannyBows · September 26, 2011, 10:03:00 PM

That recurve will be fairly tolerant of arrow spine as it'll be cut close to center-shot. Personally, as you're a new shooter, I wouldn't mess around with bareshafting at this point.

If you give the specs of the bow, such as draw weight and your draw length, the folks here can get you close with what arrows to use. Then get some field points in different weights so you can experiment to find what gets you good arrow flight.

By the time you are ready to do some hunting you'll know enough to tune some arrows to perfection.

cornfedkiller · September 26, 2011, 10:12:00 PM

My draw length is 28", and Im shooting 45# (for now)..

I was planning on using gold tip arrows, since thats what I shoot with my compound, and I really like them...It looks like they are suggesting I use 5575s. Sound right to you guys?

Spectre · September 27, 2011, 12:20:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Shawn Leonard:
I myself use wraps and shoot 3-5" feather or 3-4" Feathers. Put as much helical on them as your arrow and jig will allow. Shawn

x2

Shan · September 27, 2011, 12:31:00 AM

Tuning

this helped me out a lot. Good Luck!

Shan · September 27, 2011, 12:32:00 AM

click on the bow tuning page at the top

David Dumke · September 27, 2011, 12:44:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by cornfedkiller:
My draw length is 28", and Im shooting 45# (for now)..

I was planning on using gold tip arrows, since thats what I shoot with my compound, and I really like them...It looks like they are suggesting I use 5575s. Sound right to you guys?

As long as the fletching you use isn't designed for a compounds fall away rest, you can use what you want really. As for the shaft choice I don't know. I had a guy cut and fletch arrows for me recently. Arrows fly great now i am just waiting for my new string and the fine tuning begins.

Thebear_78 · September 27, 2011, 01:30:00 AM

I'd stick to 35/55. Those 55/75s are really stiff. Try 35/55 and get some 125, 150, 200gr heads to try. I'm betting the 200s on a full length shaft will be the ticket. I Also HIGHLY recommend getting the weight tubes for those gold tips. The 5gr per inch tubes from 3 rivers. That should get your total arrow weight to the 500-550 range with 150gr heads.

americanhunter7 · September 27, 2011, 02:04:00 AM

Here ya go fella....A couple of links to help you out.

http://www.tradgang.com/docs/trad.html

http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm

Hope these help you out.

John

Onlyaspike · September 27, 2011, 05:00:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by cornfedkiller:
My draw length is 28", and Im shooting 45# (for now)..

I was planning on using gold tip arrows, since thats what I shoot with my compound, and I really like them...It looks like they are suggesting I use 5575s. Sound right to you guys?

Id start with the GT 35/55 Trads....Im using a 165 gr point and my shaft is 29.5" on my 45# Dorado....Im not saying this will be perfect for you but it should be close to a good starting point.

cornfedkiller · September 27, 2011, 08:23:00 AM

Thanks for the tips guys..

Are those 3555s going to still be working alright for me when Im able to move up to like 55#, or am I going to have to get new arrows then?

According to the gold tip site, the 3555s are a pretty weak shaft for 45 lbs at full length (and would only get weaker with a heavier point up front), but I'll take your word for it..

cornfedkiller · September 27, 2011, 09:01:00 AM

Oh and thanks a ton for those links - I learned alot!

DannyBows · September 27, 2011, 01:12:00 PM

Jake, read this excellent thread by Shawn Leonard, it'll cut your arrow selection learning curve by years.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=107227

I have a bunch of Carbon Express ThunderStorm 3050's. I got them for shooting with lighter bows. Carbon Express advertises them as 'Youth' arrows. After reading Shawn's post I went to work putting them thru some 'new' paces.

I am shooting them right now out of my new Bama Expedition, 53# at my draw, with 250 grain points, for a total arrow weight of 530 grains and they are flying like darts. I haven't figured FOC, but they have plenty.

I planned to hunt with my AD Trad Lites, but these 3050's give me great arrow flight with a heavier head, with only a 10 grain heavier arrow, so it's a toss-up now. I prefer the heavier head, so I'll probably use these CE's.

I don't why it never occurred to me that since carbons are marketed for compounds they would be so different for Trad bows, but after reading Shawn's post it was one of those 'smack the forehead moments' as in 'Duh'! Thanks Shawn!