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Taper jig questions???

Started by KILLER B, February 12, 2009, 11:57:00 AM

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KILLER B

I am going to make a tapering jig but have a few questions.  First i am tapering the point end to add glue on field tips.  I do not have any idea of what the proper taper should be to get my dowles ground right. I read on another thread about how to make a taper jig and it says to use a shaft you know is the right size you want.  I don't have that. I was thinking about pushing playdough into the field point to see what the taper is.  I am open to any other idea that could help.  I want to try and avoid the trial and error method.  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Sticks and stones break deer bones.
One final word -Ramalamashamjam-

metsastaja

Les Heilakka
TGMM Family of the Bow  
Some times the uneventful nights are just as good if not better than the eventful ones

macbow

Killer B, What do you have for a sander to use with the jig?
If you have a disk sander I have a jig that works well made from aluminium. It was made to use with my shopsmith table and disk sander.
If you have the disk sander this jig could be modified to fit another table.
I'd bee willing to part with it for postage since I have something else to use.
Ron
United Bowhunters of Mo
Comptons
PBS
NRA
VET
"A man shares his Buffalo". Ed Pitchkites

Orion

Killer B:  The point taper is 5 degrees and the nock taper is 11 degrees.  It's the same on both field points and broadheads.  

I just made a couple of taper boards out of 3/4-inch plywood with a stop on the point ends and use them on my table saw with a sanding disk.  Use a protractor to get the 5 degree and 11 degree angles to mark the angle on the plywood pieces, then cut with whatever saw you might have available.  Good luck.

Montauks

What is life? It is the flash of a firefly in the night. It is the breath of a buffalo in the wintertime. It is the little shadow which runs across the grass and loses itself in the sunset.

Crowfoot, Blackfoot warrior and orator

KILLER B

Macbow i appreciate the offer but i only have a palm sander.  What i am talking about is the jig in the link Montauks posted.  Orion that is more what i was looking for. I like the idea of having it adjustable with materials i already have.  I thought about the three rivers ones but i would need to buy more than one since i plan on making arrows from several different size shafts.  I think i will measure the 5 degree and 11 degree and check it with playdough.  Thanks
Sticks and stones break deer bones.
One final word -Ramalamashamjam-

macbow

KILLER B A good way to test is to have a scrap shaft and grind the point and test fit and adapt as needed.
Ron
United Bowhunters of Mo
Comptons
PBS
NRA
VET
"A man shares his Buffalo". Ed Pitchkites

Fletcher

Killer, the posted jig is for tapering the rear end of the shaft, and doesn't do the nock or point tapers.  A disk sander is by far the best for N & P tapers.  My mind can't picture a good way to do this with a palm sander.  Accurate and true tapers are critical to good arrow flight.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."


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