Predator kindda

[Crooked Stic]

I got one. Not for sale but might send it to you for copying

[Watsonjay]

I got one. Not for sale but might send it to you for copying

If you're willing that be cool or maybe trace it on paper or something. Id pay for it.

[Crooked Stic]

Your limb alignment string jig thing is cool. I gave been meaning to make something. Like that. Any tips? 2 1/2" cirle, aluminum, 1/2" notch cut to center, rubber or something in the notch?

I wouldn't waste your time with those damn washer contraptions Jay. You are not going to really gain anything by doing it before your width profile has been shaped. I know... I know... this is supposed to give you a dynamic center on your limb. But it doesn't accomplish anything really except possibly damage the limb with the washer.  Been there, done that, and threw mine away back in 2008.
 

If you get your limbs mounted on the riser block and get a straight edge to mark your center line before you shape the width profile, that's all you need. Just keep the tip width an 1/8" -3/16" wider than finished width, and cut your temp string notches shallow before stringing it up. That right there will tell you which way you need to adjust for perfect alignment.

You want your dynamic centering to be adjusted AFTER your width profile and rough tillering is done. 

All I ever do with those tillering blocks is see witch limb is stronger.  As far as damaging the limb have not done that yet. Agreed leaving the tips wider and filing deeper to get them pulling straight. Them even the sides up.

[buckeyebowhunter]

Your limb alignment string jig thing is cool. I gave been meaning to make something. Like that. Any tips? 2 1/2" cirle, aluminum, 1/2" notch cut to center, rubber or something in the notch?

I wouldn't waste your time with those damn washer contraptions Jay. You are not going to really gain anything by doing it before your width profile has been shaped. I know... I know... this is supposed to give you a dynamic center on your limb. But it doesn't accomplish anything really except possibly damage the limb with the washer.  Been there, done that, and threw mine away back in 2008.
 

If you get your limbs mounted on the riser block and get a straight edge to mark your center line before you shape the width profile, that's all you need. Just keep the tip width an 1/8" -3/16" wider than finished width, and cut your temp string notches shallow before stringing it up. That right there will tell you which way you need to adjust for perfect alignment.

You want your dynamic centering to be adjusted AFTER your width profile and rough tillering is done. 

All I ever do with those tillering blocks is see witch limb is stronger.  As far as damaging the limb have not done that yet. Agreed leaving the tips wider and filing deeper to get them pulling straight. Them even the sides up.

I dunno Kirk I feel like before using the tillering blocks I was way off even filing shallow string grooves and then adjusting. But I'm also still using the Bingham style drill jig and I know it's not very accurate for bolt and pin holes. I feel like the tillering blocks get me a lot closer to dynamic center before cutting in those string grooves and then very little deepening of the grooves after. Everyone's process and tools are different though.

I have damaged the tip of one bow with those blocks but since then I tape them up real good and be very gentle attaching and removing the blocks.

[Kirkll]

Your limb alignment string jig thing is cool. I gave been meaning to make something. Like that. Any tips? 2 1/2" cirle, aluminum, 1/2" notch cut to center, rubber or something in the notch?

I wouldn't waste your time with those damn washer contraptions Jay. You are not going to really gain anything by doing it before your width profile has been shaped. I know... I know... this is supposed to give you a dynamic center on your limb. But it doesn't accomplish anything really except possibly damage the limb with the washer.  Been there, done that, and threw mine away back in 2008.
 

If you get your limbs mounted on the riser block and get a straight edge to mark your center line before you shape the width profile, that's all you need. Just keep the tip width an 1/8" -3/16" wider than finished width, and cut your temp string notches shallow before stringing it up. That right there will tell you which way you need to adjust for perfect alignment.

You want your dynamic centering to be adjusted AFTER your width profile and rough tillering is done. 

All I ever do with those tillering blocks is see witch limb is stronger.  As far as damaging the limb have not done that yet. Agreed leaving the tips wider and filing deeper to get them pulling straight. Them even the sides up.

I dunno Kirk I feel like before using the tillering blocks I was way off even filing shallow string grooves and then adjusting. But I'm also still using the Bingham style drill jig and I know it's not very accurate for bolt and pin holes. I feel like the tillering blocks get me a lot closer to dynamic center before cutting in those string grooves and then very little deepening of the grooves after. Everyone's process and tools are different though.

I have damaged the tip of one bow with those blocks but since then I tape them up real good and be very gentle attaching and removing the blocks.

Even using those old bigham drilling jigs, the trick to getting your limbs straight is to get them mounted on your block with location pins established, use a straight edge to find the center, then do your width profile using a pattern. If you want, double check them with a center string line.

 These fiberglass limbs rarely have a different dynamic center if the limbs are laid up right.. If you are having limb twist issues even though you laid everything out and profiled them straight. The odds are you either have your limb pads out of square, or your limb thickness is different from side to side.... Or you may even have a slight twist to your form. There are many , many ways to screw up a perfectly good bow.

always, always...always check your stack on each side for uniform thickness. many times a couple lams may need to be flipped to get them right. THAT right there will throw your dynamic center off.... but once its profiled you wont be off near as far as testing full width limbs.

what ever works for ya...   that's my take on it.

[buckeyebowhunter]

Your limb alignment string jig thing is cool. I gave been meaning to make something. Like that. Any tips? 2 1/2" cirle, aluminum, 1/2" notch cut to center, rubber or something in the notch?

I wouldn't waste your time with those damn washer contraptions Jay. You are not going to really gain anything by doing it before your width profile has been shaped. I know... I know... this is supposed to give you a dynamic center on your limb. But it doesn't accomplish anything really except possibly damage the limb with the washer.  Been there, done that, and threw mine away back in 2008.
 

If you get your limbs mounted on the riser block and get a straight edge to mark your center line before you shape the width profile, that's all you need. Just keep the tip width an 1/8" -3/16" wider than finished width, and cut your temp string notches shallow before stringing it up. That right there will tell you which way you need to adjust for perfect alignment.

You want your dynamic centering to be adjusted AFTER your width profile and rough tillering is done. 

All I ever do with those tillering blocks is see witch limb is stronger.  As far as damaging the limb have not done that yet. Agreed leaving the tips wider and filing deeper to get them pulling straight. Them even the sides up.

I dunno Kirk I feel like before using the tillering blocks I was way off even filing shallow string grooves and then adjusting. But I'm also still using the Bingham style drill jig and I know it's not very accurate for bolt and pin holes. I feel like the tillering blocks get me a lot closer to dynamic center before cutting in those string grooves and then very little deepening of the grooves after. Everyone's process and tools are different though.

I have damaged the tip of one bow with those blocks but since then I tape them up real good and be very gentle attaching and removing the blocks.

Even using those old bigham drilling jigs, the trick to getting your limbs straight is to get them mounted on your block with location pins established, use a straight edge to find the center, then do your width profile using a pattern. If you want, double check them with a center string line.

 These fiberglass limbs rarely have a different dynamic center if the limbs are laid up right.. If you are having limb twist issues even though you laid everything out and profiled them straight. The odds are you either have your limb pads out of square, or your limb thickness is different from side to side.... Or you may even have a slight twist to your form. There are many , many ways to screw up a perfectly good bow.

always, always...always check your stack on each side for uniform thickness. many times a couple lams may need to be flipped to get them right. THAT right there will throw your dynamic center off.... but once its profiled you wont be off near as far as testing full width limbs.

what ever works for ya...  that's my take on it.

I'd say it could be any combination or all of those issues you've mentioned so I totally agree with you there. I'd also say the issue with those Bingham jigs is finding a centerline by hand on the riser, I feel like there's no way to get a perfectly centered line by hand. So the tillering blocks give you some room to make a mistake there.

For years I've wanted to get a drill jig machined that would allow me to drill limbs and risers on their sides, just grind em to width, clamp em to jig and drill. But I'm still here using the Bingham jigs 

[Jegs.mich]

Most of you guys have a lot more experience than me and many gave advice while I was building my first bow. I used a binghams kit but the jig was missing so I built one at work. This is what I did to establish center knowing that a .010 error in center location is .125-.187 of location at the tips.
Anyhow I scribed absolute center with a height gauge on the drill fixture. When centering the fixture on a limb I measure to scribed line from the edge of the limb top and bottom of the fixture to get the best alignment. I'm sure this is nothing new just the way I went about it.

[Watsonjay]

Most of you guys have a lot more experience than me and many gave advice while I was building my first bow. I used a binghams kit but the jig was missing so I built one at work. This is what I did to establish center knowing that a .010 error in center location is .125-.187 of location at the tips.
Anyhow I scribed absolute center with a height gauge on the drill fixture. When centering the fixture on a limb I measure to scribed line from the edge of the limb top and bottom of the fixture to get the best alignment. I'm sure this is nothing new just the way I went about it.

Sold, I'll take one. 😜

[Crooked Stic]

So I decided I need a bow with a kingwood diamondwood riser. Being stablecore is much cheaper than carbon twill I decided to double up under the glass. Makes a pretty stable limb.

[Crooked Stic]

Done 44@28 60 in.

[Watsonjay]

Pretty bow. Like the stripes in the wedges. Is it me or does the top limb pad look like a shallower angle? 

[Kirkll]

Done 44@28 60 in.

That's the best looking bow I've seen you build in years Stic!   

[Watsonjay]

So seriously. Is the top limb pad at a shallower angle. Seems like a good way to pretiller for 3 under and string walking. Adding more pressure to top limb so it reduces the difference when drawing lower on the string??? Or are the the same and I'm overthinking again?

[Kirkll]

So seriously. Is the top limb pad at a shallower angle. Seems like a good way to pretiller for 3 under and string walking. Adding more pressure to top limb so it reduces the difference when drawing lower on the string??? Or are the the same and I'm overthinking again?

If you are string walking, just stay with an ILF rig so you can adjust for it....You start changing limb pad angles on a bolt down limb you are going to end up fighting it to get your limbs balanced.

[Watsonjay]

So those limb pads are the same angle?  They don't look it. Thought it might have been part of the predator design

[Mad Max]

Looks like a Howatt El Dorado   Nice work stick

[Pat B]

That's an interesting bow, Mark. What are the specs?

[Mad Max]

That's an interesting bow, Mark. What are the specs?

Picture from the Internet bow I found years ago.