Reversing one lam to stiffen limb tip

[Collett5149]

I'm on my forth reverse handle ASL design. My last version shoots pretty good (.006/inch total taper, 3@ .002, 1 para)
Thinking about.007 total taper. 3@ .003/" one @ .002/" reversed with thick end at nocks.
Any feedback greatly appreciated.

[Kirkll]

Is the unstrung profile straight? Or do you have some reflex in the form?

By using the reverse taper you will be adding a lot more mass weight to the limb tips. You may be better off just using an 8" tip wedge to stiffen the tips, and drop down to an .004FT with a narrow profile.

The ASL designs with straight profile unstrung are typically lacking in preload and difficult to build with any decent performance and eliminating hand shock until you start getting up around 60-70# draw weights. The lighter weight bows  are  pretty shocking. Not enough string tension at brace to stop the limbs forward motion.   .02 cents worth.

[Collett5149]

I'm using about a 3/4" backset for my 66-68" forms. 1 1/8" @ fades, 1/2" @ grooves, riser 14 1/2"

[Kirkll]

Honestly... I've never built a bow with an .006 FT. My long bow risers are much longer, and have a reflex / deflex shape. So I'm not going to be much help to you really.

 The only Hill style bow I built that got decent performance at moderate draw weights with no hand shock, had an 18" riser, 004 FT, power lams, 8" tip wedge, and 3" of back set. But.... The HH fan club wasn't interested in them at all, so I quit building them.

    Kirk

[Collett5149]

Thanks, Kirk. I appreciate your time and advice.
Andy

[Kirkll]

The thing about using too much FT in a long 66-68" limb without enough set back or reflex is, they can get whippy tipped on you. The tip wedge helps push the energy storage down where to want it better, and give you a better string angle at full draw.

Your reverse taper idea will help with that too.