First Bow Build - 64" R/D Longbow (KennyM Design)

[LUMEN]

Hey everyone,

I've been working on building my first longbow based on one of Kenny's designs. The goal for this build is a 64" R/D longbow; ideally in the 45-50# range. I might be getting ahead of myself, but I'm hoping to build something that I can hunt with this September. I'm planning on making several bows between now and then. This first bow is going to be made with relatively inexpensive materials as I've never done this before. I haven't finalized the material selection for the bow just yet, but I couldn't be more excited to get going! Big thank you to KennyM for the excellent information and resources that he provides.

I may end up rebuilding the form once we get our CNC machine up and running again. I'm having a lot of fun tinkering around, but I'd like to make sure everything is as close to perfect as possible.

Step 1: The Form

I picked up a 10' long x 11-7/8 x 1-3/4" board of LVL for the building of the form. The board was run through the drum sander to remove any serious rough spots, and then rough cut on a bandsaw following Kenny's design. After making the rough cuts the form pieces were measured,marked, and shaped with a spindle sander. Of course this required a whole heck of a lot of measuring, and hand sanding after the fact to get things smooth and even along the length of the form.

More to come soon! I'd like to have the form and hot box finished this weekend if time allows.

Thanks for stopping by!

Patrick 

[Stagmitis]

Never skimp on”relatively” inexpensive materials on your first build-thats smart!!! like maple cores, black glass- pretty don’t mean chit if you have poor string alignment 

[Kirkll]

Watch that form like a hawk for straightness.... That LVL material doesn't handle sanding them down well. They like to warp easily if you resurface or thin them down to 1.5". Seal it well with shellac and  store it flat with weights on it if you can... I'd highly recommend edge banding it too

.02 cents worth

[LUMEN]

Never skimp on”relatively” inexpensive materials on your first build-thats smart!!! like maple cores, black glass- pretty don’t mean chit if you have poor string alignment 

Yes sir! I've got black glass for this build. I'll likely be using maple lams on the limbs. I've got a ton of well seasoned ash, oak, and walnut as well. I might combine those for the riser. Once I figure out what the heck I'm doing then I'll try making something pretty.

 

Watch that form like a hawk for straightness.... That LVL material doesn't handle sanding them down well. They like to warp easily if you resurface or thin them down to 1.5". Seal it well with shellac and  store it flat with weights on it if you can... I'd highly recommend edge banding it too

.02 cents worth

Thank you sir! I appreciate the advice. I'll weigh them down. My woodworking shop is climate controlled so I'm hoping that helps a bit with the warping. RH is kept low, but I'll get some weights on top of the boards. Right now they're being stored flat. I'll get some edge banding and seal everything off. Once I get the CNC up and running I'll rebuild this form as well.

[Kirkll]

Excellent.... The LVL makes great form material that seams to stay pretty straight as long as you don't sand the factory finish off. once you cut your shape edge band the end grain with hardwood of some kind with epoxy or even Uni Bond 800 is good glue that will withstand heat.

If you are only using 1.5" glass and lam material, you can still use the 1.75" wide form. Just use a router on each side in spots where your zip ties hold it in place... It works excellent. if you need photos let me know. i've posted this before somewhere on the forum.    Kirk

[Watsonjay]

Excellent.... The LVL makes great form material that seams to stay pretty straight as long as you don't sand the factory finish off. once you cut your shape edge band the end grain with hardwood of some kind with epoxy or even Uni Bond 800 is good glue that will withstand heat.

If you are only using 1.5" glass and lam material, you can still use the 1.75" wide form. Just use a router on each side in spots where your zip ties hold it in place... It works excellent. if you need photos let me know. i've posted this before somewhere on the forum.    Kirk

Ive seen you and others recommend the zip ties. It seems that the tie being a firmer plastic would put little lines in the glass from extra pressure there?  I know you guys are pros, I just can’t wrap my head around how it doesn’t. So far I only use the packing tape with the strands in it to do the same thing. Maybe one day I will have the nerve to do it like you guys.

[Kirkll]

One word answer….. pressure strip…. Well two words……

You put your metal pressure strip over the glass, THEN the zip ties…with stainless steel pressure strips I leave mine in with 50-60 PSI in the hose with no issues.

[kennym]

One more word- if you are worried about the glass dents, put 10lbs in the hose, wait a few minutes and cut the ties and pull out. Everything stays put for me then. I think that bit came from Kirk or Big Jim, not my idea but I pirated it...