So ya all want a BBO build?

[Bowjunkie]

Roy, you know how you jack me about my long-winded posts? Yeah well, you can't say SQUAT ever again.  That was the longest post I've ever seen! 

[Roy from Pa]

LMAO

It takes a while to explain things about limb timing.

I'm getting just like ya bro:)

Feel free to add anything ya think I may have over looked.

Just keep it short, like 2,000 words or less:)

Maybe explain the static versus dynamic points and why?

[Roy from Pa]

This a video of a previous bow tiller.

You can see it has a long string on it but it's not at any kind of brace, I pull the string down to hook up the pull rope..

Sometimes a bow just tracks the line from the very first pull on the tree, sometimes:)

My tree cradle was setup different back then, the ends of the cradle were cut at an angle and the angle of the cut riser sat down in it. I changed it to a flat cradle because all the pressure was on the top and bottom 1/2" section of the grip area.

https://youtu.be/UWFJ7e7DlVc

[williwaw]

Maybe explain the static versus dynamic points and why

yes, that would be nice

[Roy from Pa]

I use a compass and scribe lines down the edges of the limbs, as I get closer to the tips I make the gap smaller.

[attachment=1]

I use the fine side of a farriers rasp and rasp from the belly to the core lam, stopping at the edge of the core lam.

[attachment=2]

I got a little sick when I came upon a pin knot after removing some wood, have no choice but to keep going and pray it doesn't cause a failure. This is the biggest problem making wood bows, the lams looked perfect till I did the facets and out it popped. DAMMIT...

[attachment=3]

Got the riser roughed in pretty well, it will be finished at final sanding.

[attachment=4]

[attachment=5]

[attachment=6]

[Roy from Pa]

I do facets on the bamboo side too just like the belly side, I don't mark it cause the rind is like wax and so I just eyeball it.

Always rasp from the boo towards the core lam, if you rasp towards the boo, there is a good chance of causing a splinter in the boo.

After rasping the facets in, I smooth them up with a cabinet scraper, then sand with a long sanding block with 220 paper.

I round off the edges of the belly facets on the belly lam then scrape and sand smooth.

[attachment=1,msg2945662]

[Roy from Pa]

Tips only roughed in.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Here it is all ready to tiller. The line in the middle is for 3 under tillering.

[attachment=3]

First pull on the tree rope and it is tracking right on the line, that's perfect.

[attachment=4]

[Roy from Pa]

After that, had 3 beers in the shop, then came in and ate dinner, had a glass of wine and leaned back in the recliner and missed half of the football games. LOL

[Flem]

Looks nice Roy
Do you think the mechanical advantage from using 2 pulleys might affect the actual poundage reading?

[Roy from Pa]

Nope. The poundage at the bow string is what it actually is, the poundage I am pulling at the second pulley is the old mans poundage:)

When I scale the weight, I hook the scale right on the bow string and pull the scale down by hand.

[Flem]

Duh! I don't know why I was thinking the scale was not on the string
Think I better have another cup of coffee

[Roy from Pa]

I understand:)

[kennym]

Somewhat like a glass bow build...  NAH - nothin like it except rasping toward the core so ya don't splinter it. 

Gonna wrap the pin knot area wif balin wire ?

[Roy from Pa]

Gonna wrap the pin knot area wif balin wire ?

Ifin I can find pink balin wire:)

[kennym]

Ya could use zip Ty's but baling wire is more trad ...

baking wire might be too...  LOL

[Buemaker]

 

[Flem]

[attachment=1]

[Roy from Pa]

 

[Mad Max]

Lookin good Roy

[Mad Max]

More More More