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BHTGdogs · February 03, 2009, 08:56:00 PM

70" ntn 1 7/8" at the fades tapering to 9/16" at the nocks starting 12" from the tips. Should I be able to get a 70lbs. draw weight at 28" draw with this lay out?

Carbon Caster · February 03, 2009, 10:00:00 PM

Sounds very doable to me. Just make sure you keep her DRY while Tillering. I would put her in a hot box to keep the MC down. How long of a rigid handle section were you planning? Sounds like the Abominable Snow Man (BIG WHITE BEAST)!

BHTGdogs · February 03, 2009, 10:10:00 PM

its a four inch handle going two inches till the fades. I think you just named the bow thats a great name.

Pat B · February 03, 2009, 10:13:00 PM

It is definitely doable. I would leave the tips thicker and later reduce the width to 1/2" or less to reduce physical weight. You may even be able to reduce the length and still get your weight. Pat

BHTGdogs · February 03, 2009, 10:24:00 PM

The stave has some bumps on the back not knots just bumps will this cause any problems?

shamus · February 04, 2009, 07:04:00 AM

QuoteThe stave has some bumps on the back not knots just bumps will this cause any problems?

nope.

your design sounds fine (modified meare heath it seems) but you may want to narrow the tips a little bit more. Perhaps a few hairs under half an inch.

John Scifres · February 04, 2009, 08:46:00 AM

That is slightly overbuilt but a safe design. It will probably hand shock you if you don't narrow the tips quite a bit. Go for it. Post pics.

DCM · February 04, 2009, 09:20:00 AM

It will depend upon the density of the wood and your ability to control the moisture in it. You definately have enough wood to start, at least for an experienced craftsman. When you get the bow up to say 20" of draw, you should be able to tell if you have extra wood. If you haven't seen more than say 1/2" of set to 20", you could probably take 1/8" off the width end to end. Might cost you 2" of draw length, or there about. And if you get away with it you'll pick up at least that much in cast. I guess my point is a layout isn't necessarily the last word. In fact, it's just a guess to get one started. How the bow reacts to being worked, and near the end of the project how the bow shoots, should guide the design, in terms of width, of the finished bow.

BHTGdogs · February 04, 2009, 11:43:00 AM

This stave is still green I am just roughing it out then Im strapping to a caul with 4" of reflex to dry. I have made a couple selfbows before and I always tried to get to much out of some of them and well bad things happen. So this one I made a little over built just so I would have one that I can use till my hedge dries. Got some mullberry and ash I got some questions about too. But will save those for another post.

DCM · February 04, 2009, 01:08:00 PM

"a little over built just so I would have one that I can use"

Been there, done that. Sound logic.

George Tsoukalas · February 04, 2009, 01:28:00 PM

I think we need to ask how long your non bending handle area is, BHT. Didn't see it anywhere but its length impacts total bow length. Jawge

BHTGdogs · February 04, 2009, 01:42:00 PM

it will be 8" non bending handle

BHTGdogs · February 05, 2009, 04:30:00 PM

If I thin the stave to 5/8" through its total length excluding the handle will this leave me enough wood for 70lbs?

BHTGdogs · February 05, 2009, 10:58:00 PM

really need help guys so I can get this thing strapped to the form before itdries too much thanks

Pat B · February 05, 2009, 11:30:00 PM

I never check thickness on a bow. I reduce the thickness until it will bend 4" at floor tiller then do my heat bending or clamp it to the caul to cure. I don't care what thickness it is at any time. I remove wood until it gets to where I want it to be, even for final tiller and weight. The actual thickness doesn't matter.