HH bug got me ... Part One!

[ChrisM]

Originally posted by Pat B.:
I'm jealous Kyle!

Out of curiosity what is your bow weight?
You handle it well.

That is no lie it looks like he is shooting 20lbs.  Smooth to anchor and no bow movement at all.  Looks great to me.

[khardrunner]

Mike, it looks like you only have a couple options that make any sense to me. 1) shoot 3u. 2) learn the new sight picture. I would not change your anchor as I would think that would mess things up drastically.

I'm RH and R eye dominant. I shoot LH because of shoulder issues. I've been shooting LH since march (which certainly explains why I have as much work to do as I do :-)). I am still working on the sight picture thing. It's pretty good as long as I let the sub concious mind take care of things. It's not perfect and I expect to get it better.

Pat... the bow is 50lbs @ 28 inches and I draw right at 28.5 which is where I have my arrows cut to (BOP). I worked up from 25lbs in march to over 60 last month (barely shootable), but 50lbs seems to be my magic #.

[swampthing]

Krunner,
      Smooth like diarrhea, just let it flow.  Who says white people don't have no rhythm?

[khardrunner]

Thanks for the kind words guys. If only I could shoot half as accurately as you guys do!

[MT Longbow]

Mikebiz,try this:  Tip your head and bow to the right (CANT) try various angles of tipping. I am the same as you right handed, left eye Dom.

By experimenting with different clock positions with your anchor solid and head tipping with the upper tip of the bow you are changing how much your left eye lines up over the arrow shaft. The most lined up vertically you could get would be  bow flat at 90 degrees, then your left eye would be in the vertical plane( obviously you won't lay your bow flat) but just for demonstration purposes.  I find that with my strong dominant eye about 40 degrees from vertical , or  mid way between 2 and 3 on the clock position helps really remove my left shots comming from my split vision being dominated by my left eye.

Long explanation, but just try keeping your form good, anchor solid and tipping the top of the bow, along with your head and some upper body to maintain alignment ( I lean over at the waist just a bit, like leaning into it, ) and see what you get ,

Just trying to help.  It has really helped my on my longer 35-45 yard shots and now I just look at be target ensure I'm canted properly and leaning a bit into it and let er go.  Groups are nice and tight.  When I find myself not doing this and shoot more straight up and down with the bow and head tip at 1 o'clock, I will get shots migrating left.

[Jon Powell]

Kyle,
Thank you and Nate for that explanation of the low shoulder. The screw gun suggestion helps my poor visual mind grasp the idea.

[mikebiz]

Thanks guys.  I appreciate all the help as always.  MT Longbow, I already cant my bow, always have.  However I haven't played around with various positions of cant.  I usually have it around the 1 o'clock position from vertical. I'll mess with leaning it over even more.  I know Howard preached that canting the bow reduces the angle of sight along the arrow.  John Schulz told this to Gene Wensel when he missed a bear once.  Wensel shot with the bow vertical.  Schulz told him something to the effect of next time you see that bear, lay that bow over on its side and you'll get your bear.  Apparently he tried it and scored.

Hey Kyle, I say stick with that 50 pounder.  It will kill pretty much all NA game.  Plenty for anything deer sized and smaller.  You're draw is very smooth and effortless.  I wouldn't go up to sixty unless you want to kill a moose or something.  The only thing that going up to 60 will kill you is your form.  In my shooting I have found that being overbowed by as little as 5# really destroys my form.  And I shoot light bows from 35-50#.  If I have another bow built someday it will be at 45# @ 25".  Yeah I'm arm length challenged.    

Kyle what kind of bow is that?  I'm sure you've mentioned it before, but there's way too many posts to go through at this point.  

And how do you know any of us shoot more accurately than you do?  We all just talk about how accurate we are.  No pics or vids to prove it  

[MT Longbow]

You bet Mikebiz, I think we all do cant the bow , but for me the difference between 1 oclock and 3 is substantial on the target.

For me I need to ensure I'm moving my head with the bow asI lay it over,  That is a big deal and sometimes can get away from me

[MT Longbow]

Originally posted by MT Longbow:
You bet Mikebiz, I think we all do cant the bow , but for me the difference between 1 oclock and 3 is substantial on the target.

For me I need to ensure I'm moving my head with the bow as I lay it over,  That is a big deal and sometimes can get away from me

Sorry for the double!

[mikebiz]

I agree MT L.  When I do lay my bow over I try to lay the head in the same position.  I have found that when I do cant more, moving the head also drops the drawing shoulder into a more parallel position with the ground, thus creating a straight line from arrow tip through bow to drawing elbow.  Anyone who has an issue with having the drawing elbow rising above the parallel should try canting and leaning the head.  I should rotate the drawing shoulder down into better position.

As much as I love seeing pics of everyone's beautiful Semi-longs I much prefer all this form talk.  You guys are a wealth of knowledge for those of us still working things out.

[Brianlocal3]

Khard,
You have inspired me to post a video of my shooting.  Plus, I have a new Mac and need to learn how to use the photo and movie software so here is my perfect chance.

I do not shoot "Hill Style", I just shoot how I shoot and this is what works for me.  But, I like watching others form videos so I thought I make one.
http://youtu.be/OVSSGMAdJho

http://youtu.be/Uuuml9ezqTI

one is a right side view  , and one is  a left side view.

[Brianlocal3]

oh and shots were only at 18-20yds

[Brianlocal3]

Nice post Charlie

[khardrunner]

I can't wait to watch the videos guys! I'll get to them.

The bow is a Schulz Trophy Hunter that Nate Steen just did some work on for me... so it's customized by Steen, built by Schulz.

I'm assuming you are more accurate based off of my own shooting haha!

[Brazos]

Looking for y'all's opinions on what qualities you would like to see for a more target oriented Hill bow.  Right now I have a 50# & 60# HHA 68" bows.  I would like to have HHA build me another bow in the 40# range.  I pretty much do not shoot my 60# Wesley Special anymore and would like to settle in on a 40# bow for the off season and my 50# bow for hunting season.  I was thinking about trying a 70" bow as I hear they are more stable.  My draw is 26.75-27".  HHA model wise I was thinking Tembo if I decided to use colored glass but I like pretty wood veneers so maybe clear glass w/ two wood veneers over two cores of boo.  If you think one HHA model is a little better suited for target work over another say so.  Again this bow primary focus will be off season target work and at least one 3d shoot (want to shoot the TX State LB Championship this year in may).

[khardrunner]

By the way Brian... Nice purchase with the Mac... I'm an addict myself!

[Brianlocal3]

I am becoming a Mac addic myself. So simple, yet advanced at the same time

[mikebiz]

Any of you guys use a Howard Hill Archery Deluxe Armguard?  It's the one with the metal speed hooks.  I was wondering if it's easy/quick to cinch up and how you actually tie it off to keep it from loosening.  

[Charlie Lamb]

I used one years ago and didn't care for it much. Kinda picky about getting it laced "just right" and a little slow as well.

I like something simpler with elastic.

[Brianlocal3]

Well, the Wesely is sold, and my order is confirmed with James at JD Berry for a Vixen.  Oh the joys of having so many great bowers!!!