Taper Tools

[ToxophilitePastor]

What are the best taper tools out there? I am having trouble justifying $6.00 for a little plastic tool.

Thanks,
Mark

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I preffer a belt sander and a jig, preferably a stationary belt sander. I've seen some really inovated taper tool jigs set up with a skill saw turned upside down with a sanding disk instead of a blade. and others using a table saw with a sanding disk too...

Those little plastic pencil sharpener tools don't last very long either, but i keep one in my pack or quiver for use in the field....Kirk

[Barney]

Tru-center isn't bad. Been using one for more than 12 years, I think. Just replace or re sharpen the blades every now and then. Just traded for a spare.  

[Jim now in Kentucky]

I have the little plastic tools and use them when I have to, but sanding disk is much better. I have two jigs for the disk, one for each taper.

[Gatekeeper]

What about the metal, multiple hole, hand crank pencil sharpeners? Has anyone tried using one of these to do tapers?

[M60gunner]

Mark,
The sanding jig idea would be the best way to go if you already have a sander or a table saw to use. I have seen plans for the jig in a couple of different DYI threads. A regular pencil sharpener does not have the correct 11 degree angle.
If you do not have acess to power tools you are left with only a few choices, 6 bucks for your own or have the shafts cut and tapered when you buy them. Last time I looked that would be about $3.00 to $5.oo a dozen.

[Gatekeeper]

Thanks Mark

I didn't know about the 11 deg angle.

[geno]

Gate keeper... the 11 is for the nock. It is 5 degree for the point..I use a $100 belt/disc sander from lowes and a jig I made..

[khardrunner]

Can a jig be made using an orbital sander instead of a belt sander?

[varmint]

Woodchuck!!

[KodiakBob]

ditto, Woodchuck

[Traxx]

Gatekeeper,
Is this what yer referrin to?
http://www.arrowsbykelly.com/Fletching_Jigs.html

[Gatekeeper]

Traxx


No I was referring to the kind that we all used in school. I don't know what angle they cut at.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by khardrunner:
Can a jig be made using an orbital sander instead of a belt sander?

I suppose that would work if ya didn't fall asleep while you were doing it....but i can't for the life of me figure out how you'd clamp that kind of sander down....when using taper jigs it works best to chuck the arrows into a cordless drill for a nice uniform taper.

if you do figure it out.... i'd love to see photos....Kirk

[Bjorn]

Your arrows are only as good as your nock and point tapers. A Woodchuck is a sound investment. Or, consider buying shafting that is pre cut and tapered for you.

[Tree man]

Frankly, I have not been favourably  impresed with the already tapered shafts I have purchased. I want to like the Tru center taper tool-it has some nice features but mine has never cut nock tapers well-It even went back to 3 Rivers where Todd played with it and sent it back -cutting at the proper angle but still nibbling fibers off. The little Whiffen tools cut really good tapers but struggle with hardwoods. I recently picked up a Bearpaw taper tool and enthusiastically affirm that it is worth th $6. Having multiple tools helps.
The whole idea behind the jig and sander set up is excellent but I don't have the power tools, don't want to spring fro $130 for a Woodchuck and it is critical when using any of those tools to have the shafts straight before you taper.

[dino]

I've have a true center taper tool and it works really good and is worth the investment if your planning on only doing a few dozen arrows a year.  If your doing more a disk sander is the best option.  Woodchucks are great but you can make your own easily with a disk sander and a block of wood.  3Rivers even has a block that goes on a disk sander if you don't want to make the guide block. dino

[ToxophilitePastor]

Thanks for all the info!!

Mark

[Art B]

Tree Man, sounds like you're not getting much if any blade exposure on the nock end of your tool. Also sounds like just the blade's base is doing the cutting and not the blade. Just adjusted one for a friend and he was having pretty much the same problem as you described. Remove the sleeve from the nock end, and looking directly into it's end, check and see if you have any blade exposure over the blade's base. If not, a little re-tooling is in order.-ART B

[Traxx]

I agree,with Treeman.At the price,of the True center tool,You shouldnt have to Tinker with it,to get it to work properly.I also like the option,of being able to work on arrows,without being plugged in.I dont always work on arrows at home.Therefore,i like the whiffen type,or the type i showed,on my previous post.