Wood arrow spine question

[Orion]

The fletching straightened out your arrows. That's what fletching is supposed to do.  I think you were over spined from the beginning and the arrow was bouncing off the side plate. Maybe something in your form also contributing to the initial result. Regardless, if they work for you , go with it.

[jono446]

Originally posted by flyflinger:
Had similiar results (posted about it a week or so ago). I shoot 49# @28". Surewood shaft 70-75#.  29" OAL w/ 125 up front has me shooting bullet holes on paper. Tune what works best for you and run with it!

Yeah I thought I was crazy but I'm gonna get the 70-75 spine and point tune if I need to. Thanks for the help I've gotten from everyone!

[jono446]

Originally posted by Orion:
The fletching straightened out your arrows. That's what fletching is supposed to do.  I think you were over spined from the beginning and the arrow was bouncing off the side plate. Maybe something in your form also contributing to the initial result. Regardless, if they work for you , go with it.

Maybe that is the case but I had some 55-60 spine that I shot also and they showed weak all the way through also

[Paul Shirek]

I'd go with at least 70-75.

[Zwickey-Fever]

I had a issue several weeks ago when I went with 5" feathers instead of 4 inch. I backed off two twist from my brace height, problem solved. I also had my arrows whip tail left when shooting with my quiver on. A twist out of my string brought it right back.

[MnFn]

I dont know; the longer arrow in heavier spine was inconsistent in flight for me.
Why do you want a 30" arrow? Is there not enough room left?

[Pat B]

I prefer a longer arrow(30" for my 26" draw). I use mostly hill cane and sourwood shoots for arrows and both are naturally weight forward and fly very well for me. I also like the extra physical weight I get with a longer arrow.

[jono446]

Originally posted by MnFn:
I dont know; the longer arrow in heavier spine was inconsistent in flight for me.
Why do you want a 30" arrow? Is there not enough room left?

With a 29 inch arrow I only have about a quarter inch between broadhead and my finger and I don't care too much for that. I've always preferred a bit longer arrow

[Fletcher]

I'm shooting Surewoods from my Chinook, but with different bow and arrow specs from you.  I shoot 43 lb at 26" and 200 gr point on a 28" BOP arrow.  I paper tune rather than bareshaft and a 62 lb static spine shoots bullet holes thru paper for me.  Adjusting for your point weight and shaft length, I get 69 lb.  Without knowing the actual spines for your shafts (65-70 doesn't tell you much, they could all be 65-66), you may well be underspined.  Shooting better at 29" kinda confirms this.  You could also build the side plate out just a bit and see if that helps.

[jono446]

Originally posted by Fletcher:
I'm shooting Surewoods from my Chinook, but with different bow and arrow specs from you.  I shoot 43 lb at 26" and 200 gr point on a 28" BOP arrow.  I paper tune rather than bareshaft and a 62 lb static spine shoots bullet holes thru paper for me.  Adjusting for your point weight and shaft length, I get 69 lb.  Without knowing the actual spines for your shafts (65-70 doesn't tell you much, they could all be 65-66), you may well be underspined.  Shooting better at 29" kinda confirms this.  You could also build the side plate out just a bit and see if that helps.

Yeah I don't have a spine tester or I would test them all

[frank bullitt]

So are the test shafts marked, with spine and weight? 65-70, 1-66, 1-68, 1-70, no?

I also have a 26" draw and for the last ten or so years, leave 'em long!

Over the years I have worked with a number of people that had confusing results with arrow spines.   i have seen guys come up with some wild things.  for myself when I am going to make arrows for someone else, it is more difficult to predict when there is a lot of extra shaft.  That extra long arrow will react differently for different bows and different people, although it is possible to find a sweet spot, it is difficult to declare it without experimenting.   I have also seen that often arrow flight flight confusions start with a variable release.   An over spined arrow, over length and with an extra heavy point can seem like the perfect answer for someone with a feathered weak release with a high nocking point.  Then down the road the release improves and everything goes wrong, the last thing they think of is that the release just got more balanced and stronger, or if it started out strong, it perhaps got weaker.   While everyone always looks for the mechanical variant, the human variant is at fault more often than not.   i caught myself having some arrow flight variations recently, a variety of things, one time a porpose, next time a a half arc tail whip.   the problem was not a nocking point height, a brace height, or a draw length variation.  It was my release fingers and some off line muscle tension.   I went from wacky arrow flight to perfect arrow flight and I did not change a thing, except me.

[jono446]

Originally posted by pavan:
Over the years I have worked with a number of people that had confusing results with arrow spines.   i have seen guys come up with some wild things.  for myself when I am going to make arrows for someone else, it is more difficult to predict when there is a lot of extra shaft.  That extra long arrow will react differently for different bows and different people, although it is possible to find a sweet spot, it is difficult to declare it without experimenting.   I have also seen that often arrow flight flight confusions start with a variable release.   An over spined arrow, over length and with an extra heavy point can seem like the perfect answer for someone with a feathered weak release with a high nocking point.  Then down the road the release improves and everything goes wrong, the last thing they think of is that the release just got more balanced and stronger, or if it started out strong, it perhaps got weaker.   While everyone always looks for the mechanical variant, the human variant is at fault more often than not.   i caught myself having some arrow flight variations recently, a variety of things, one time a porpose, next time a a half arc tail whip.   the problem was not a nocking point height, a brace height, or a draw length variation.  It was my release fingers and some off line muscle tension.   I went from wacky arrow flight to perfect arrow flight and I did not change a thing, except me.

Yeah I definitely can't rule out a bad release. I'm constantly working on my shooting and release technique