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Ashby's Straight Fletch A&A cut

Started by bagada, August 25, 2016, 08:08:00 PM

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Chris Pharr

I'm currently shooting some 4 fletch A & A cut 3" feathers. Arrows are Easton axis trads, 400 spine, footed with 1.5" of 2018 aluminum xx75s, 250 gr F.P.  not efoc, not really sure what the foc is. I do know they'll tame a big magnus 1 2-blade pretty well. Got some 250 gr cutthroats on the way for deer season, they look tough!
60% of the time,  it works every time

JimB

That's a lot of GPP!About 18.You don't need near .50 slug feet for deer.Upper 30's should be good.I've only chronographed up to 14 GPP and that's about 150-155 fps.I haven't a clue what speed 18 GPP would be.My guess would be app 125-130 fps.

Orion

Jason: The reason I was inquisitive about your FOC was that i thought the spine requirement would get so high with that much weight on the front of a wood shaft that they would be unshootable, i.e., wouldn't tune to the bow.  

You're saying they shoot well. Arrow spine weight vs draw weight is an important consideration.  You may have discovered something new here, at least new to me.  Mind sharing your arrow spine and bow draw weight?

Shadowhnter

I need.50 pound seconds of momentum, to break the opposite leg bone  on a quartering away shot from a tree stand, and to continue on through so I get an exit hole, since quartering away is the most lethal shot available. Under the throws of adrineline, I wish I could always put that arrow perfect on a quartering away shot,  but facts from my history says a tiny flench means accidental heavy bone hits. To my knowledge,  there is no material available that tells us exactly what we need for doing that consistently, so its a good safe starting point I feel.

Im a poor boy....I want 1 arrow to do all my needs. Im not going to work up 10 different arrows for 10 different game animals anyway. How many folks use their deer set ups for small game? Same difference  right?...Dont need as much for small game either but its common. Just because im doing something out of the norm, dont mean its a horrible idea does it? If so I guess I can back er down! This way if I want to hunt up to moose confidently with my lighter bow weight, I can do so with the same arrow, since moose will need .57 pound seconds of momentum to break that leg, give or take a bit. .57 does zebra, so im thinking moose is close...

Shadowhnter

Spine 60/65, 45lb bow, that is NOT cut to center, giving me the advantage of weaker spine needs.

Trust me fellas, this has been well thought out, studied, and planned,  on almost a year long pursuit of little else.

Ashby has said many times, center cut bows are not your friend with higher foc, because it increases spine needs so much and you run out before you get it. Light bows in 45lb range also have the advantage of also needing lighter spine needs in achieving it.

monterey

Shadowhunter, I'm in complete agreement with you.  My big game set up is also my small game, stumping, etc. Set up.  

I guess if I shot 3d or other competition with longer shots it might be different, but I don't do that.

My 26% arrow was about 750 grains and wasn't that far off of my usual 650s.  Gonna try the A&A Fletch and see how it works out.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

lone hunter


JimB

I like one arrow setup myself or at least setups that all have the same trajectory.I also shoot heavy arrows but am not willing to go higher than 14 GPP.That's plenty for me.

Shadowhnter

We all have our preference,  and thats great... but as you stated above,,,thats why youve never seen or shot a 30% wood arrow before...right? Just sayin...    :)

Doc Nock

GPP and EFOC are not necessarily the same thing or required to have heavy arrow to get heavier front weight.

Ashby and I once chuckled how we beat up the carbon arrow companies to give us heavier carbons for stick bows, and they have done so.

NOW, now we'd like lighter gpp of a stiff spine to  load up front weight without getting rebar weight arrows.

I've switched to the lighter target shafts (Lighter GPP) but stiffer spine and then add an aluminum overfoot of 2" BOPoint to stiffen/strengthen the thinner walls at that critical impact point where I used to ruin alum arrows constantly. That has allowed me to load the front, hit solid objects like rock walls and flatten a field point, with NO damage to the shafting...

As Shadow said... it's great to have options and I'm grateful we all don't want the same thing, or I couldn't afford much due to supply/demand!  :)
The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Sasquatch LB

Shadowhnter

Here is a link to me shooting my rebar weight like arrows at 14 yards, which I figure normal deer killing range. 866gr douglas fir arrow, 28% foc, 45lb maddog longbow. These are the heaviest arrows I own. My 30% arrows are 41gr lighter and smaller diameter. Im thinking all of them would benifit by using the AA fletching.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua1ixMcDcaU

Longtoke

While we are on the ashby topic, what is the most effective way of footing an arrow? From what I have seen there are 3 methods

1 single footing covering the shaft but not the insert
1 single footing covering the insert and the shaft
2 footings one up to the insert then another OVER the insert and OVER the other footing.

There is also the question or how long the footing should be. seems to me it needs to be a little longer than the insert is.

Sapcut

I think A. is the best between A. and B.  But the best being C. with double footing covering single footing and sliding up farther to back of broadhead, covering insert/adapter joint.
Black Widow PSAX 71@31
Faith is Life

JimB

My first ones butted up,behind the rim of the insert.What I didn't like,was that created a low spot,between the rear of the broadhead and the front of the footing.This low spot was the rim of the insert.

After that,I turned down the rim of the insert so the footing would cover it and butt right up to the rear of the broadhead.I just felt that the front of that footing might drag on tissue if the insert rim in front of it was lower.It seems more streamlined with the footing over the rim of the footing.

Later,I did a double footing,just to form a better transition from the Tuffhead's ferrule to footing and shaft.

bagada

Hi, where do you guys get your longer footings? I currently use the carbon collars from 3 rivers but I would prefer the longer ones that cover the insert and shaft.

J-dog

bagada you can get long ones form tuffhead. I did my axis 400s with #4. Was gonna do the second collar on them by it seems just a touch too big????? I mean it is just enough that it could go on not tight? little wobble.

The first long footings were so tight I had to tap them down with a hammer!

Course footing arrows to kill 80lb whitetails?? I do it for fun.

J
Always be stubborn.

Captain hindsight to the rescue!

J-dog

Shadowhunter, that looked good??? shooting masai warrior spears!
Always be stubborn.

Captain hindsight to the rescue!

Shadowhnter

Lol! I think for almost a 900gr arrow, the cast is pretty good at 14 yards!

oldgoat

Baganda, I use alum.arrows cut 1 1/2" about just look around for old ones and figure out the size you will need. Chuck up in drill and tire down the back,faceing the nock end,just taper a little.
TGMM Family of the Bow

tracker12

Not much on EFOC but I like 4 fletch.
T ZZZZ


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