HH bug got me ... Part One!

[normf]

I think I got the bug too. I'm thinking about a TD Redman. Do they shoot any differently than a regular handle? Does a TD have to be a straight grip? Thanks

[Looper]

Originally posted by normf:
I recently bought a used Redman 70in. 41# at my 30in. draw. Shooting 425 gr. arrow with a 2 blade broadhead. Is this enough bow for whitetail? It's so much fun to shoot I haven't picked up my ILF recurve since I bought it.  Thanks

Yep, you'll be fine. A long draw adds a lot of speed. Personally, if I were to hunt with that bow, I'd bump the arrow weight up some. Maybe as high as 550 grains. At your draw, you'll be shooting the equivalent of a 47@28 bow drawn to 28.

[WESTBROOK]

Yep, you'll be fine. A long draw adds a lot of speed. Personally, if I were to hunt with that bow, I'd bump the arrow weight up some. Maybe as high as 550 grains. At your draw, you'll be shooting the equivalent of a 47@28 bow drawn to 28.

Absolutely!

Originally posted by normf:
I recently bought a used Redman 70in. 41# at my 30in. draw. Shooting 425 gr. arrow with a 2 blade broadhead. Is this enough bow for whitetail? It's so much fun to shoot I haven't picked up my ILF recurve since I bought it.  Thanks

Whitetails are not that difficult to kill providing you place that arrow in the right spot.  I also agree that, all things being equal, you will have no problem with that set-up.

A heavier arrow will give better penetration but you will limit your effective range some....seems it could be a significant trade-off at a light draw weight....just guessing here.

I learned a few things here on this thread over the past year:

Two things come to mind; the first is that, as I understand it, the 70"er, having longer limbs will not as efficiently energize that arrow as a 68 or a 66.

The second thing is one that I had to come to grips a year ago and that is maintaining that 30" draw.  If you are rather new to shooting hills and (like I was) began with what I "knew" was my draw length, you (as I did) may find your actual draw is significantly less than what you thought.  I started with 30.5" and now truly draw a tad under 27" consistently...while shooting.

That's over 3" and that or any portion thereof could decrease your draw wt. as much as 2.5# per inch.  For me it killed about 7# of push that my arrow needed for efficient efficiency.

I am not an expert by any means but there are a few guys that haunt this place who can clarify.

Here is an option if you can or want to shoot a heavier weight....Craig at HHA can shorten and refinish your bow for around $100 plus shipping.  He told me that I could expect a minimum increase in draw weight of 6#.

[Mudd]

longbowben .... Hey buddy!  

I was just wondering what your thoughts are looking back?....I mean just look at what you started a life in...lol

It's pretty darned amazing if anyone were to ask me.

God bless,Mudd

[Overspined]

Originally posted by Macatawa:
 

Originally posted by normf:
I recently bought a used Redman 70in. 41# at my 30in. draw. Shooting 425 gr. arrow with a 2 blade broadhead. Is this enough bow for whitetail? It's so much fun to shoot I haven't picked up my ILF recurve since I bought it.  Thanks

Whitetails are not that difficult to kill providing you place that arrow in the right spot.  I also agree that, all things being equal, you will have no problem with that set-up.

A heavier arrow will give better penetration but you will limit your effective range some....seems it could be a significant trade-off at a light draw weight....just guessing here.

I learned a few things here on this thread over the past year:

Two things come to mind; the first is that, as I understand it, the 70"er, having longer limbs will not as efficiently energize that arrow as a 68 or a 66.

The second thing is one that I had to come to grips a year ago and that is maintaining that 30" draw.  If you are rather new to shooting hills and (like I was) began with what I "knew" was my draw length, you (as I did) may find your actual draw is significantly less than what you thought.  I started with 30.5" and now truly draw a tad under 27" consistently...while shooting.

That's over 3" and that or any portion thereof could decrease your draw wt. as much as 2.5# per inch.  For me it killed about 7# of push that my arrow needed for efficient efficiency.

I am not an expert by any means but there are a few guys that haunt this place who can clarify.

Here is an option if you can or want to shoot a heavier weight....Craig at HHA can shorten and refinish your bow for around $100 plus shipping.  He told me that I could expect a minimum increase in draw weight of 6#. [/b]

For 30" draw, 70" is a solid length, you'll be happy.  The shorter bows won't add anything but finger pinch and stack at that draw length IMO.  Run them through a chrono and you'll notice...probably almost nothing . Arrow weight over 500gr is always a good idea for hunting.

Hill T/D are always the sleeve system. 2 sizes.  I did a mod on one of mine, I posted it a page or two back.

There are other bowyers that make a T/D Hill style with other systems like the connection hinge, or bow bolt, etc.

[MikeM]

I have a 29" draw on Hill bows and have found the 70" length from Craig at HHA more to my liking than the 66" or the 68" having shot all three lengths.

[MikeNova]

Well screwed up amd made an stupid mistake opening day I thought it was getting about time to get down and I scanned real carefull making sure no deer were around about 30 secs latter as I'm lowering the bow to the ground the deer to my left let out an alarm scream and took off. I feel sure they were does and it wasnt doe day but where I screwed up was as i looked around it wasnt dark enough to get down had that been a buck I would have wasted an oppertunity.

[tg2nd]

Does anybody know what happened to Ron DiStefanos try to make a Takedown Hill with a Robertson Connexion Hinge?

Originally posted by tg2nd:
Does anybody know what happened to Ron DiStefanos try to make a Takedown Hill with a Robertson Connexion Hinge?

I believe he nixed the project.

Originally posted by Overspined:
 

Originally posted by Macatawa:



The second thing is one that I had to come to grips a year ago and that is maintaining that 30" draw.  If you are rather new to shooting hills and (like I was) began with what I "knew" was my draw length, you (as I did) may find your actual draw is significantly less than what you thought.  I started with 30.5" and now truly draw a tad under 27" consistently...while shooting.

That's over 3" and that or any portion thereof could decrease your draw wt. as much as 2.5# per inch.  For me it killed about 7# of push that my arrow needed for efficient efficiency.

For 30" draw, 70" is a solid length, you'll be happy.  
[/b]

Matt, I agree that a true and solid 30" draw would be great for a 70" longbow.  I guess I took too long to say "if your draw is not a true 30", you may be disappointed in performance.  Thinking I had a 31" draw, I ordered a 69" Half Breed from Craig.  When I found out, after settling into a good form that my draw was 27", I realized that I made a mistake.

I agree that, at 30" a short(er) bow will do nothing but add stack.  Just trying to help others' avoid my mistake.

[Owlmagnet]

I have been fooling around with brace height on my new Tembo and it occurred to me that measuring the brace height from the grip to the string, the long recommended procedure, fails to take in account the depth of the grip.

I have three 66" Hills, all of which have straight grips of different depths--from 1-7/8" to 2-3/8". (I continuously experiment in my search for a repeatable straight grip.) With that degree of variation, the recommended 6-1/4" brace height for a 66" Hill becomes essentially meaningless.

I have started measuring brace height from the back of the bow to the string, instead, and believe that 8" seems to be a pretty effective starting point for my 66" Hills. I am also wondering if "lower is better", in general, for Hill-style bow brace height, (at least, for me), particularly as risers become shorter. Any thoughts?

[khardrunner]

I go low for sure. Usually around 5 3/4 -6 1/4.

Originally posted by Owlmagnet:


I have three 66" Hills, all of which have straight grips of different depths--from 1-7/8" to 2-3/8". (I continuously experiment in my search for a repeatable straight grip.) With that degree of variation, the recommended 6-1/4" brace height for a 66" Hill becomes essentially meaningless.

I have started measuring brace height from the back of the bow to the string, instead, and believe that 8" seems to be a pretty effective starting point for my 66" Hills. I am also wondering if "lower is better", in general, for Hill-style bow brace height, (at least, for me), particularly as risers become shorter. Any thoughts?

Good point!   That is a lot of "noise" and I agree that it could be meaningless.  I also agree with "go lower" but that revelation took me many months to grasp.

Do you measure at the fadeout to the string now?

[Owlmagnet]

No sir, I measure brace height from the back of the bow at the arrow shelf, to the string.

[Owlmagnet]

By the way, if there is a "literacy test" for Trad Gang membership that hinges upon the ability to post photographs, y'all might as well kick me off, now. It looks like "Owlmagnet's Photo Album on Photobucket" is as close as I'm gonna get to posting photos of the new Tembo I received from Craig on Thursday....

Sorry. (I HATE being stupid.)

Bob...yep...got it.  
That works. I missed your very clear explanation - sorry.

[khardrunner]

email the pics to me and I will post them :-)

[Owlmagnet]

khardrunner: PM sent!

[SportHunter]

Originally posted by tg2nd:
Does anybody know what happened to Ron DiStefanos try to make a Takedown Hill with a Robertson Connexion Hinge?

Not sure about Rob's build but I bought a northern mist classic with the connexion hinge this year and it works out very nice. Steve said he found it to be the most stable and reliable of all the systems he's tried.  I'll try to take some pics.

I'm sure it has a lot to do with the bowyers skill as well with how well any TD system turns out.