Need tougher arrows

[3arrows]

I use 2114s on 35-55 GT trads

[Gdpolk]

I stump shoot and shoot small game in rocky country primarily.  I've never looked back from footed Gold Tip Trads.

[Thumper Dunker]

I chase ground squirrels all year . And the where I hunt them is full of rocks I think doug  fir is the best I used . I think they hold up better than my carbons did. Got my from Sure Wood     .

[Nativestranger]

Another alternative to using aluminum shaft footing is using a single strand of fast flight string material. I clean it of wax and use it to bind both the nock end and behind the point. Hold it down with CA glue. Several wind is enough on each end. The added weight is minimal with this method.

[Jakeemt]

Aside from footing carbons you can add a hard wood forging yo your cedars.. Carbons being much easier to foot.

[Okie man]

Western Larch hold up really well. I have had some direct hits on some pretty hard stuff and they have survived intact. Sometimes it will bounce the nock off but the shaft usually survives. Kootenai River Archery has them at a reasonable price. He also has ash shafts which are tough. I have never been able to break one but they are heavy and a little harder to keep straight.

[LoneWolf73]

carbon express heritage.  Can buy used at decent price. But even if you buy new they last, hold up great.

[Haydenj7]

I have shot Easton axis for years with a compound and now with my longbow. I am always breaking arrows. The compound had the front end mushrooming.

I am footing them now for my longbow, front on impacts are ok but angled impacts bend the insert every time. With a well performing bow angled impacts are always going to present a challenge in durability.

I am shooting about 54lbs Thunderchild and shooting 400spined axis trad with 250gr upfront plus a 20gr footing of 2016 alum, I am trying to source some 2018 alum footing so I get a thicker side wall for more strength. I have also been using hot melt, but struggled to get a good bond and fill. I will use JBweld when I settle on a final setup which I hope will add better cohesion in my setup.

[ChuckC]

Also try to use plain blunts.  My experience has been that if I use any blunt that is wider than the shaft, an edge hit on something hard supplies more torque ( or whatever that force is called) and tends to break the arrow right behind the head.  
ChuckC

[Bladepeek]

A recent post with a lot of helpful replies.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=148875

[Cavscout9753]

Douglas fir!

[Pryor]

I live here in Grand Junction.  I spend lots of time in the desert at the base of the Books chasing rabbits with my long bow.  Destroyed about 12 aluminum shafts  last season.  I recently bought some Gt Blems from Big Jim, and footed them with about an inch of aluminum.  I haven't put them through any hard impacts yet, but think they will hold up alot better than my aluminum shafts did.  If you end up getting 1535's I have some aluminum shafting that will work for footing that a fellow trad ganger sent me.  If you need some let me know.

Welcome to Western Colorado.  More public land with in 45 miles than one can explore in a life time.

[Bowjunkie]

Try hickory. They're tanks. Thank me later.

Put a rubber blunt on a straight grained hickory arrow for such roving and you'll likely get sick of looking at it before it breaks.

[Gdpolk]

Footed Gold Tips with 100gr brass inserts.  I've gone to this setup with durability as one of the primary reasons.

[Terry Green]

Your quote carbons are pricey unquote is relative .....

if they don't break they're not costly.

Not trying to be a smart alec but it's true cost is relative to durability you could also buy some hard wood shafts that are more durable than Cedar

[the rifleman]

Daniel gave you good advice above regarding the gold tip blems from Big Jim.  As he said--foot them with aluminum.  You do this and you will not break them--they are indestructible---ok as close to it as you can get.  I am very tough on arrows as I shoot stumps very often and am not selective--I'll shoot a hard stump if it looks at me wrong.  I use a field tip with a T-nut behind it.  My shafts are 1535 and I foot with 2017s.  I foot 1 1/4 inches up front and 3/8" at the nock end.  Very seldom will I break an arrow doing this--I usually have my arrows for a very long time often refletching, cresting, etc. before I lose one.  Now if I can figure out how to keep deer from breaking them I'd be in good shape.

[achigan]

Hey Mac! Good to see ou are getting out andflinging some arrows! I footed my last dozen of 1535s from Big Jim. I don't know how you can do much better. (Kim's Jim)

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I agree with footing Carbon shafts and Using Big Rubber Blunts.

I saw one guy who had these plunger looking things on the end of his arrow.  I dont remember how he made them but he didn't lose or break arrows. He was a darn fine shot but didn't have the luxury of pulling well placed arrows out of a soft stump either lol.