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Tuning to broadheads....

Started by archer66, March 04, 2015, 04:34:00 PM

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archer66

Ok....

Black Widow SIW 56" 50 lb at 25"
Shooting Gold Tip 5575 27.5" long with 310 grains up front......110 grain insert and 200 grain field points and broadheads.  Bare shafts and fletched arrows group together with field points....bare shafts fly straight.

Got some VPA two blade 200 grain broadheads and they hit CLOSE to where I shoot but they aren't consistent and I see a bit of a "kick" here and there.  

What is my next step in tuning?  Nock point is not quite 1/2 inch above center, brace height is 7.5 inches. I've done nothing with broadhead alignment.  I haven't messed with the strike plate thickness.

If you're not familiar with the VPA it's a machined solid blade head.

I guess what I'm asking is what is your normal progression in correcting broadhead flight?  I'm a "make one change at a time" guy so I know what the effect of each change is.  I guess I could experiment and learn but I'm interested in hearing what your experiences say.
1966 Bear Kodiak Magnum
52"
40# @ 25"

Black Widow SIW
56"
51# @ 25.5"

archer66

Or....OR.....could my form....grip/torque...release be the more likely culprit?
1966 Bear Kodiak Magnum
52"
40# @ 25"

Black Widow SIW
56"
51# @ 25.5"

shreffler

I'm a total noob when it comes to broadhead tuning, but I'd say my first step would be aligning the broadheads so that they're horizontal (or the same direction as your cock feather if it's not horizontal).

At the same time however, with 310 grains up front I'm not sure how much of a difference it'll make, but I have to imagine it can't hurt anyways. I'll let someone else more knowledgeable take it from there  :D
"If you're not bowhunting, your spirit is on standby." - Uncle Ted

Fastltz

Measure the length of the broadhead vs length of field tip...if bh is longer it could weaken the spine some...if indeed the field points fine then it's not form. Try building the side plate out some...if that fix it then you where weaker...just my thoughts
1 Peter 3:15 ...always be ready to give a defense to anyone who asks you for a reason for the hope that is in you.

Caughtandhobble

If I am understanding you presently have 310 up front and you're trying a 200gr broadhead. If that is the case and your bare shafts at 310gr group with 310gr field points 200gr broadheads likely will not work with those arrows at that length. I would suggest trading the broadheads for some heavier ones. Good Luck   :archer:

archer66

QuoteOriginally posted by Caughtandhobble:
If I am understanding you presently have 310 up front and you're trying a 200gr broadhead. If that is the case and your bare shafts at 310gr group with 310gr field points 200gr broadheads likely will not work with those arrows at that length. I would suggest trading the broadheads for some heavier ones. Good Luck     :archer:  
No....I'm using 110 grains in the insert and my field points AND broadheads are 200 grains......all arrows are the same weight and same FOC.
1966 Bear Kodiak Magnum
52"
40# @ 25"

Black Widow SIW
56"
51# @ 25.5"

awbowman

As stated above, field points and broadheads should be as close as possible to the same weight when tuning a bow. A difference of 110 grains is way too much.  

BTW, not sure if you know, but NEVER shoot a broadhead with on an unfletched arrow.
62" Super D, 47#s @ 25-1/2"
58" TS Mag, 53#s @ 26"
56" Bighorn, 46#s @ 26.5"

archer66

QuoteOriginally posted by awbowman:
As stated above, field points and broadheads should be as close as possible to the same weight when tuning a bow. A difference of 110 grains is way too much.  

BTW, not sure if you know, but NEVER shoot a broadhead with on an unfletched arrow.
Oh gosh.....I wasn't nearly clear enough in my original post.  My inserts are 110 grains.  My field points are 200 grains.  My broadheads are 200 grains.  All of that is equal.  Yes....I realize you can't shoot broadheads with no vanes.  I DO thank you for mentioning that though because ya never know and clearly I wasn't clear enough in my original post.  SAFETY FIRST!!

Thanks!!!
1966 Bear Kodiak Magnum
52"
40# @ 25"

Black Widow SIW
56"
51# @ 25.5"

ARriverdog

I understand your arrows weigh the same.  Broad heads and field points may not fly exactly the same.  You may have to make some weight or length adjustments to the arrows and dedicate them as broad head arrows.

tracker12

Here and there occasional bad hits are usually form related from my experience.  I use that same VPA 200 gran broadhead with great results.
T ZZZZ

Friend

Please bring me up to speed on the specifics of what exactly is a Black Widow SIW?

Also, note: that any bare shafting tuning from 35 to 40 yards that I have completed has yielded excellent VPA BH flight from Penetrators, Terminators to Big 3's. Actually, all BH's I have used have tuned well when I extended my  bare shaft tuning range. If I experienced any issues, it was due to poor shot execution.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

Todd Cook

I think you need a 35/55 shaft.You said those 55/75's are cut 27.5. That's an pretty stiff arrow for 50 pounds.

archer66

QuoteOriginally posted by Friend:
Please bring me up to speed on the specifics of what exactly is a Black Widow SIW?

Also, note: that any bare shafting tuning from 35 to 40 yards that I have completed has yielded excellent VPA BH flight from Penetrators, Terminators to Big 3's. Actually, all BH's I have used have tuned well when I extended my  bare shaft tuning range. If I experienced any issues, it was due to poor shot execution.
The SIW...Short Iron Wood was the precursor to Black Widows current PSR short recurve.  It's got the same riser as their PL series.

All my shooting so far is at 15 yards......I bet I learn some more by extending that range a bit.  

According to stu's calculator I should be ok with these arrows with the 310 grains up front.  I'm open, however, to trying different arrows.....these arrows came with the bow so I wanted to try to make them work.

What do ya think....extend the bare shaft tuning a bit further then adjust if that tells me anything?
1966 Bear Kodiak Magnum
52"
40# @ 25"

Black Widow SIW
56"
51# @ 25.5"

Friend

Would believe that a 3555 @ ~28 1/4"s would have place you in the ball park.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

Skipmaster1

id see how your bare shafts fly at 20-25 yards. 15 is a little close.

onewhohasfun

You mentioned VANES in your post. I hope you mean feathers.
A 55/75 cut to 27.5" is one stiff arrow.  I shoot full length 55/75's , 400 grns. up front, 56lbs @ 29".
If you have not cut em all to 27.5" try a longer shaft.
Tom

archer66

Yes....feathers not vanes.  I've still got 16 arrows that are 30.5 inches long so I can easily try a longer arrow.

Stu millers calculator says I'm in the ballpark at 27.5 inches.   However I do realize that the calculator is only a guide and that in the real world it may be off.  

I'm going to go back to bare shafts and increase shooting distance and see if that changes anything.

Thanks all for the replies.
1966 Bear Kodiak Magnum
52"
40# @ 25"

Black Widow SIW
56"
51# @ 25.5"

JDunlap

I generally like my bare shafts showing slightly weak. They are usually right on when fletched. If your bare shafts are flying perfect...this might be the problem....; When you bare shaft your next ones you might try leaving them a little weak. Then you can always trim a little more off if that doesn't work.
Sandy Biles Scorpion TD RC; 54@28
RER XR Static Tip RC; 50@28
JC Optimus riser/Uukha EX1EVO2 52@29.5


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