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Footing skinny shafts like Axis

Started by toby, February 09, 2015, 10:02:00 AM

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toby

When applying an aluminum footing to the front end for the arrow, do you keep it short enough so it doesn't contact the shelf/side plate or long enough so it rests on the rest?
TOBY

DarkTimber

I cut mine 1" long so it rests just in front of the shelf at full draw.

Charlie3

What do you guys use to foot Axis arrows? I think I will foot the next batch I buy.

TradBrewSC

I don't tend to worry about the footing hitting my shelf, as it wont effect you arrow flight IMOP.

I cut mine to 2" and bevel the nock end.

I shoot 400's for both axis trads, and full metal jackets. For the trads I foot with 2016 legacy's, & for the FMJ's I foot with 1913 platinum's, and JB weld them on.

DarkTimber

I shoot the black Easton Axis 340s and foot them with 1914 X7 Easton Eclipse...I bevel the back end as well.



toby

S2

Thanks for the link, he has some great stuff.
Toby
TOBY

M60gunner

I use 1917 or 1916 alum to foot my Axis shafts. I do not worry about foot and shelf as I only have enough coved to hold arrow.

Orion

I know footing increases the durability of the shaft directly behind the point, but I've bounced Axis shafts off of live oaks and have and no damage to the arrow.  Just not needed for deer size critters.

Now, if you want to punch holes through engine blocks, that's another matter.  Good luck.

Iowabowhunter

How do you guys bevel the trailing edge of the footing?

Also w/the axis shafts using HIT inserts, do you install the insert before jb welding the footing on?
Associate PBS member NRA member DU and Pheasants Forever

DarkTimber

I use a Lyman outside chamfer tool for the bevel.  I JB weld my inserts in first, let them set up then JB weld my footing on.  Once it's set up I lightly grind the end of the arrow on an arrow squaring jig I built so the footing and carbon are perfectly square and both touching the ferrule exactly the same.  Maybe a little overboard but that's how I do it.

TradBrewSC

Another easy way to bevel the footing is by putting the footing in the chuck of a drill, then hold a mill bastard file to it.

very quick and makes a perfect bevel.

A friend came up with this recently, and much easier that i was doing it before

Gaff

anyone know what size footing for Beamon centershot 600s???
----------------->>>>>>>
Jamie

old_goat2

Orion, we don't foot them for when we hit deer size critters, we foot them for when we don't hit them!
David Achatz
CPO USN Ret.
Various bows, but if you see me shooting, it's probably a Toelke in my hand!

Iowabowhunter

Thanks for the tip guys. Im not exactly sure what point weight I need to tune, or if I am going to want the 75 or 50 gr brass insert, I'm a little hesitant to jb weld the inserts until I know for sure?

Going to have to borrow a drill, I do have a mb file however.

I also made up some footings for the nock end, about 1/8" or so. Should really help prevent the nock end from splitting as well.
Associate PBS member NRA member DU and Pheasants Forever

M60gunner

I use 1917 or 1916 for footing. I bevel the rear by using a tool I got from Harbor Frieght for doing copper tubing. I will also square up the footing to the shaft after the epoxy I use sets. I use the 100 grain inserts and found for me the 125 grain points fly straight when bareshaft. I also left them at 29 1/2 in which is a little longer than I usually do.

old_goat2

I've done it both ways and with a good taper on the back end you won't notice a problem pulling it onto the shelf, at least I didn't
David Achatz
CPO USN Ret.
Various bows, but if you see me shooting, it's probably a Toelke in my hand!


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