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>>>>---back to woodies----->

Started by buckeye_hunter, September 08, 2007, 11:28:00 PM

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buckeye_hunter

All right... need some advice.  I haven't shot wood arrows since I broke or lost all of the ones I started out with when
I originally got my bow. In my quest to be "more traditional" I'm thinking about going back to woodies.

1. I was wondering how difficult it is to tune them since you can't just screw in and out different heads.

2. Are they considerably more heavy than carbon or aluminum?

3.  I am concearned about the occasional "fliers", don't want that to happen when shooting at game.  

 I would appreciate any input, and suggestions.

Thanks,
Charlie(buckeye_hunter)

BamBooBender

Lot of ?'s but here's my take on it;
1. You can tune them in sorta the same way by length and gluing on (as opposed to screwing on) different weight points.Not to mention, there's a lot of folks on here that can get you in the ball park pretty quickly.

2. Depends on the species of wood

3. One simple way to find the best of the bunch when it comes to wood arrows is to mark them each with a number, weed out the "fliers" and use the consistent "groupers".

BTW you don't have to shoot woodies to be traditional imho
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Goodbye Shiner you were always a good dog.

Danny Rowan

send me a pm with your bow specs and draw length and I will get you in the ball park. I need to know the type of string on your bow and your actual draw weight at your draw length. I also kneed to know the type of bow, ie longbow or recurve and the weight of points you want to use.

Danny
"When shooting instinctivly,it matters not which eye is dominant"

Jay Kidwell and Glenn St. Charles

TGMM Family Of The Bow
NRA Life/Patron member
NAHC life member
Retired CPO US Navy 1972-1993
Retired USCBP Supervisory Officer 1999-2017

Orion

Very little tuning is required once you find the spine and weight that works for you.  Remember that wood comes in a wide range of spines.  Start with what you think you will need and then go up or down in spine from there.  

Even cedar, a lightweight wood, is heavier than carbon, and most aluminums, unless you add weight to the carbons and aluminums, of course.  I consider the heavier weight a plus.

You won't get fliers, at least not fliers caused by the shaft material, if the arrows are well matched to your bow and each other.  To do that, though, you will need a grain scale and spine tester.  Most shafts and arrows that you buy will not be matched within 5 pounds of spine and 10 grains, even though the suppliers say they are.

Good wood arrows fly as well as carbons and aluminums, but it requires good shaft selection, time, effort, and skill to make good wood arrows.  Lots of books provide detailed instruction about how to go about it.  Have fun.

Weekend Warrior


SuperK

You might want to consider a "test kit".  Several dealers offer them.  You can tell them your setup and they can put you a "kit" togeather so you can see what will work the best for you, your shooting style, bow setup, etc.  Twig archery, 3 Rivers, Kustom King and others would be a good place to start.  Oh yeah, welcome back!
They exchanged the truth of GOD for a lie,and worshiped and served created things rather than the Creator-who is forever praised.Amen Romans 1:25 NIV

buckeye_hunter

Super K,
Thanks for the welcome! I'll check out 3 rivers. I have bought quite a few things there and always with god results.


I bet it isn't quite as painful to lose a wood arrow as it is a carbon!  Well..each one is a work of art.

-Charlie

BamBooBender

SuperK, that's true, forgot about the test kits. I got one from Paula @ Rogue River Archery (under a new owners now ,I believe) just by posting a "what spine do I need" type of of question years ago on a different site. I know this is a little "OT", but I have never ceased to be impressed by the generosity of a lot of traditional archers.
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Goodbye Shiner you were always a good dog.

John3

You are getting great advice. Buy a "test" kit cut them to the correct length and see which ones are right for your bow. This is a small investment that will pay off for years and help with all your new bows.
In my experience a straight wood arrow spined correctly flies perfect. I understand about wanting to be more traditional shooting wood.
"There is no excellence in Archery without great labor".  Maurice Thompson 1879

Professional Bowhunters Society--Regular Member
United Bowhunters of Missouri
Compton Life Member #333

OzarkRamblr

Sitka Spruce for sure. Every batch I've gotten from Hildebrand's has been spot on a matched set. They do a great tapered shaft as well.
"A friend of mine said that I'm lucky, I told him luck has nothing to do with the life I chose, we choose the life we have and don't have, so choose wisely"...Kingwouldbe

Words to live by.

TGMM Family of the Bow

UK Bowman

I just got a set of tapered POC shafts from Kustom King, best shafts I have ever bought. Check them out, prices are good too.

Tuning is easy...once you get the right spine  :knothead:  I was shooting too stiff an arrow for a long time.

Enjoy

**DONOTDELETE**

IMO, you might want to try different shafts ( type of wood )if you can. Also I started out with POC and found that ASH (Heavy wood) flies better from my Shrew. I also like heavy head weight too.

buckeye_hunter

How many graing is a typical 28 inch wood arrow spined for a 40-45 lb longbow w/ fastflite string?

buckeye_hunter


Danny Rowan

Charles, a cedar arrow at that spine will probably be around 350/400 gr without points as a guestimate. add a 125 gr point at your arrow will be 475/525.

Danny
"When shooting instinctivly,it matters not which eye is dominant"

Jay Kidwell and Glenn St. Charles

TGMM Family Of The Bow
NRA Life/Patron member
NAHC life member
Retired CPO US Navy 1972-1993
Retired USCBP Supervisory Officer 1999-2017


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