Back quivers and Broadheads

[David Mitchell]

If you use 2 blade heads, a properly made quiver of the right weight of leather, and it hangs right and conforms to your back as it should, you will not need fur, oats, a second strap, or any of that business.  Neither I nor my hunting buddies who use back quivers extensively have any of the problems people imagine or often seem to be having.  Reason, reread the first sentence.      

[iowan]

Do u use something to cover the broadheads-wont they bang around and get dull??

[Red Beastmaster]

Dave Mitchell, you got it right. I make my own back quivers and always go with medium grade leather that forms to your back. No other items are needed to keep everything in place. I've tried out some custom quivers at various shoots. They were so hard it was like wearing a scuba tank. The arrows were all over the place and dumped out when bending over.

Broadheads really can't get dull inside a quiver either. Take a handfull of arrows and bunch them together, roll them in your hands. The sharp cutting edges can't possibly touch each other and get dull. I've never lost an edge while carrying my arrows in a back quiver.

[Knapper]

Sheep wool is the greatest.  I even use it in my Raptor Archery side quiver. It helps keep the broadheads separated, no bounce when you drop the arrow in, and helps keep the sound level down.

[joe skipp]

The key is a soft,pliable quiver that conforms to your back. Backquivers and multiple blade heads don't get along very well. The perfect marriage is a 2 blade head.

I shaped a large piece of soft foam and placed it in the bottom of my Creger quiver. This "opened" up the bottom while the rest of the quiver sits collapsed on my back. Makes for easy arrow removal and replacing an arrow.

A proper made quiver that collapses keeps the arrows from rattling and your broadheads should never move around and get dull. Forget the oatmeal theory of placing some your quiver bottom to keep the arrows quiet. First time you get caught in a rain storm, your gonna wish you had a spoon instead of your bow.

Catquiver or Bowquiver when using 160 gr 3 blade Snuffers. Below is a pic showing the bottom of my quiver a tad wider and you can see the collapsing start right above. The quiver is actually laying flat against my back.

For demo purposes only....LOL..if I had my hunting clothes on, the pack would be riding higher as would my quiver.

[V I Archer]

I hunted exclusivly with a back quiver for years.  Still prefer it for day hunts, rabbit hunging and stumping.  I buy a pair of cheap leather work gloves and cut the fingers off, slip them over the broadhead before dropping them into the qiver.  Cheaap, ready made braodhead sheath that drops off with no resistance when you draw the arrow out.

[bigbadjon]

Just throwing it out there that I disagree with the soft pliable leather for a hunting quiver. I believe that a quiver should be made out of heavy duty leather and then wet formed to your back. This will delelop the pinch in the middle to keep arrow in place but still tough enought that heads don't cut through if they snag.

[David Mitchell]

iowan, no broadhead sheaths needed.  Some guys are making this back quiver thing waaaaay harder than it needs to be--nothing more simple, functional, and trouble free than a good and proper back quiver.  Many of the gorgeous and artistic quivers I see for sale these days are totally useless as hunting quivers however and it's no wonder guys get frustrated trying to use them.

[Nate Steen .]

my .02 worth....

I use english bridle leather, 8 - 10 oz. which is thick enough to hold it's shape and not collapse when reaching for an arrow,  yet it is a very pliable leather.  It conforms very well to the back, yet won't stiffen into that position like latigo and veg or chrome tan leather.  I've seen veg & chrome tan quivers with a permanently molded bend in the middle of the quiver that makes it very hard to remove and insert arrows.  David said it all very well.  with a properly made and properly hanging quiver,  A TRUE HILL STYLE, you won't need foam, fur top, or anything.  I put a double layer of leather in the bottom 1/4" thick which stops broadheads, and a piece of shag carpet which doesn't soak up water and the points grip the carpet texture.  However, when all your arrows are grouped together in the side of a Properly Hanging quiver, the fletching interlocks and the arrows don't move, rotate, make noise or anything.  Guys with problem quivers aren't using a Properly made HILL STYLE QUIVER.  There IS a difference......

[speedbump]

Great thread, I have been wondering about this myself...