Cedar arrows breaking. Aluminum Footing ?

[lpcjon2]

I have been stumping a lot lately and I have broken a few arrows just behind the head. I have never tried the aluminum(cut offs) footing. Does it give it that much more strength or will they still break behind the head? I am not looking to get crazy with my stumping arrows(No purple heart footings,ect)Just want to add a little strength.Thanks in advance.Tim

[Ragnarok Forge]

Your going to need to go to footings.  You can make a jig and do them yourself.  Aluminum footing woods has not worked for me.  It works great on carbons.

[ron w]

You can also try internal footing, I just made a few to see how durable they will be. 2" of coat hanger only added 25 gr to the shaft.Once the weather breaks I'm going to stump with them and see what happens.........

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Reparrows footing works great...

[lpcjon2]

Sal I have one from Fletcher(Rick) and it broke behind the head as well. The joint that is repaired is still rock solid. I wonder if I sand the shaft a little so the aluminum can fit inside the point Ferrel would make it a little stronger?

[Bjorn]

Reparrows are da bomb! The walnut reparrow seems to stand up better.

[Killdeer]

You might try a different head.
I stump with hex heads, and I won't say that I never break arrows anymore, but I don't break as many.

Since I started playing with carbons, I have found that aluminum footing is a necessity for stumping, and the arrows are close to indestructible once this is done.

Killdeer

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I agree, Try the Walnut.

[JimB]

The footings are mainly for frontal impacts on carbon arrows to keep the insert from acting like a wedge and mushrooming the end of the carbon shaft.I would think,if you "footed"the wooden arrows it would still break behind the footing.Ash or hickory shafts might make a difference?

[JRY309]

I agree I think you would just move the break point behind the footing.I liked ash or douglas fir for stumping.

[Bud B.]

Not a very popular wood but Ramin is god awful strong. I billiarded one arrow off of limbs, trunks, and fallen trees in one day and it is still a shootin'. No footings. Just glue-on regular field points. They aren't too bad to straighten. Once straight they only need occasional inspection.

[Orion]

The short of it is aluminum collars don't work behind the heads on wood arrows.  The shaft will still break right behind the point  Either switch to hardwoods for stumping or put a hardwood foot on the cedars.

[San Juan Slim]

If you don't break some arrows, you never get to make new ones.  That's what winter is for--making arrows.

I use reparrows as well and they seem to help.  I also make some ash and hickory arrows now and then and they are most definitely stronger.  But they are considerably heavier too, so if you don't hunt with arrows that heavy you may not want to practice with them.  Have fun!

Mike

[Arwin]

Chundoo shafts if you can find them.  They are tough!!

I second what Killdeer said. Carbons with aluminum footings are nearly bomb proof, esp if you put a collar on the nock end too.  :cool:  I've had the same CX 150 Heritage shaft for 2 yrs and hit many hard stumps.

[Stone Knife]

Reparrows are da bomb! The walnut reparrow seems to stand up better.  

I second that!
They are around a buck a piece just save your broken ones and fix them as you need to. I have extended the life of a woodie many times over with them.