Crooked Broadheads.

SpikeMaster · July 06, 2008, 02:19:00 PM

I have a device I got from 3RA about 15 years ago that I can use to check arrow straightness to a thousands of an inch. It's not a straightener, it just checks straightness. Anyway I've got a few different brands of some very popular broadheads (I won't mention any names) that I screwed onto a very straight aluminum arrow. The arrow is about .002 to .003 of an inch straight. Anyway after screwing on some of these broadheads they were anywhere from .025 to .035 of an inch straight. That doesn't seem very good to me. I have some cedar shafts that are between .005 and .015.

Has anyone else here checked broadheads for straightness? All these broadheads cost about $25 for 6. I always thought it was a waste of money to pay much more than this but now I'm starting to wonder if I would be better off paying more if I'm getting a better broadhead. Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this or what you all think.

SlowBowinMO · July 06, 2008, 03:35:00 PM

What you're seeing is the head still needs to be properly aligned for spin on the arrow. Arrow inserts are notorious culprits for being at the root of poor alignment.

You can put a Silver Flame on a straight arrow but if the alignment isn't correct it still won't spin right.

The broadhead can be the problem, especially those intended to be glue ons that have the inserts installed, but it's not generally the first place I look.

Onestringer · July 06, 2008, 03:49:00 PM

Dumb question is .025 to .002 going to make a bit of difference?

Earl E. Nov...mber · July 06, 2008, 05:07:00 PM

.025 will make a difference,, wobble like heck and the arrow will probably "Plane" That is why I still prefer glue on.. If they don't spin I can straighten them.. Several years ago I went thru the same exercise as Spike is doing now, and I would say about 1/3 of those I checked with machined ferrules were in the neighborhood of what he is seeing.. I quit using them then and haven't really checked lately.. Certainly no surprise here.

Tusker · July 06, 2008, 06:42:00 PM

YES what a problem.
I can do every possible thing to make a broadHead perfect from of the steel coil through the straighteners - press - spotwelding ect but if the heat treaters dont get there part right the blades can and will warp,twist and bend.
It is a ongoing problem and I have to check every blade for straightness.
Most hunters overcome any problems when they glue the head on the shaft, this is the most critical part of making a hunting arrow.

SpikeMaster · July 06, 2008, 08:02:00 PM

Thanks for the replies. Especially Tusker since he is in the business of making broadheads. These are glue on broadheads, I couldn't get them straight on either broadhead adapters on aluminum arrows or on tapered wood arrows. I turned them every which way and still couldn't get them straight. Just seemed to me the problem was with the broadheads. I know that .025 doesn't seem like much but with the rest of the arrow being much straighter, it seems like a broadhead on the front of the arrow being that crooked would make a difference in accuracy. I'll try again and see if I can get them mounted better.

Earl E. I thought maybe the machined ferrules would be better from your experience, I guess not.

Earl E. Nov...mber · July 06, 2008, 08:39:00 PM

As Tusker said, It's probably not the ferrule, it's the blade.. It's just that on a screw in there is little you can do about it..
When I align broad heads, I do not spin them.. I have a jig (Pair of V-blocks and an angle plate) But you could improvise with a shoe box with notches cut on either end and paper stuck to the wall. I slide the broad head forward till it touches the paper, Typically a two blade the blade is vertical.. Then I pull back and rotate it 180 degrees.. If it is aligned, they will touch in exactly the same place. If not, you will know which way the blade needs to move and how much, which is a big help as opposed to just twisting.. A couple of tries and they should be "Spot on" Twist them like a top and watch for wobble.
If the arrow is straight, the only things I have seen affect them negatively is misaligned head or knock.. Both are dissaterous

SlowBowinMO · July 06, 2008, 09:45:00 PM

Geez, I totally misunderstood you, I thought you were talking screw ins.

With glue ons ferrules are important, but heads that are so out of whack you can see the imperfections will still spin if you're stubborn (usually). I've had a couple that nothing would fix though. "[dntthnk]"

SpikeMaster · July 06, 2008, 10:31:00 PM

Thanks for the help. Earl, I'll give your method a try.

outbackbowhunter · July 07, 2008, 10:46:00 AM

John,
What is your method of straightening Tusker blades. I have the same problem with my heat treater.

I use an anvil, ball pein hammer and patience.

It is a tedious process.

ChuckC · July 07, 2008, 12:40:00 PM

I am guessing that it depends entirely in what manner it is out of straight. if the flat of the blade is not perfect it woud likely show up as the tip making circles like you are cutting out cookies. If the blade itself is not welded straight, then it would show up differently. If you havd the first option, maybe rebending them very slowly. If the second, maybe resharpending (re shaping) to bring the off side back in ?

Spike, I am a bit confused. how does your arrow meter measure straightness ? Using a gauge in the center of the arrow ? Or at the broadhead tip ?
ChuckC

Kingwouldbe · July 07, 2008, 01:05:00 PM

good info guys

SpikeMaster · July 07, 2008, 02:10:00 PM

With a broadhead installed, it's close to the broadhead. Without a broadhead or with a field point it's a little further down the shaft. The device is about a foot long with the gauge in the middle.

Bill Tell · August 03, 2008, 10:57:00 PM

Spike,

I don't know if you already know about the tool that G5 makes that squares up the end of your arrow shaft. When ever I have a problem with a head not spinning well I just work the arrow shaft with one of these and 90% of the time my problem is solved. It works with carbon or aluminum. I consider it my most important arrow tool.

Sharpster · August 04, 2008, 07:31:00 AM

I almost hate to bring it up but, here's something to think about guys:

Most glue-on heads are stamped, and stamping by it's very nature is not anywhere near as acurate a manufacturing process as machining is.

I have found that the point or tip of many stamped heads is often not in the true center of the broadhead.

Even sharpening can shift the postion of the tip off-center if one blade gets more attention than the other. The long and short of it is that spin testing a broadhead can sometimes have misleading results.

Ron

outbackbowhunter · August 04, 2008, 08:36:00 AM

Ron, you are right and wrong on stamped heads, it depends on the die stamp process.

Some press tools take a couple of presses, maybe one for the general outer shape, and another for the inner ferrule recess or blade vents.

If the strip shifts a little between stamps, you have a problem.

The soloution is a clever tool maker who can make a die press tool that punches the complete blade in one hit.

Orion · August 04, 2008, 11:08:00 AM

Spike: The one other thing you might consider is the amount of glue used, whether you're doing the gluing or if the heads came glued to the adapter that screws into the insert. Often, too much glue prevents proper alignment, and just reheading and squeezing out some of the glue will true them up.