Removing dried ea-40 from limb faces

[Watsonjay]

As far as the chisel. I was scared the first couple times but haven't had any problems.

[mmattockx]

Then I use a paddle bit I ground the point off as a mixing paddle with a drill motor for about 60 seconds to get a consistent color and viscosity.

I like this idea.

I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.

By far the easiest way to be consistent with your mixing ratios and overall amount of epoxy you mix is to weigh each part with a small scale. You get the correct amount of each every time and know exactly how much you mixed in total.


Mark

[Watsonjay]

Then I use a paddle bit I ground the point off as a mixing paddle with a drill motor for about 60 seconds to get a consistent color and viscosity.

I like this idea.

I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.

By far the easiest way to be consistent with your mixing ratios and overall amount of epoxy you mix is to weigh each part with a small scale. You get the correct amount of each every time and know exactly how much you mixed in total.


Mark

The real question is how much of a difference does it make if you're not exactly 2 to 1 or 1-1. I bought reusable caulking tube like kirkl uses but haven't purchased the guns yet. Honestly unless im using clear glass I try to use 1-1 on clear 2-1 for a lighter tint.

[mmattockx]

The real question is how much of a difference does it make if you're not exactly 2 to 1 or 1-1. I bought reusable caulking tube like kirkl uses but haven't purchased the guns yet. Honestly unless im using clear glass I try to use 1-1 on clear 2-1 for a lighter tint.

The ratio is flexible enough that it mostly affects curing time and may slightly affect strength. In this case weighing the resin is more to reduce waste and be consistent in your batch sizes. If you do a bow with 100g of resin and there is lots left over, then you could cut down to 90g the next time, and so on. It simply standardizes the process.

Kirk's method with the caulking tubes is more than accurate enough with EA-40 for our uses.


Mark

[simk]

i have had hard times too with dirty glass too after my glueups. I did rempve with scraper and sanding, which felt like total unneccesary pain. I had always used to use my super thin goto epoxy that I thickened with cotton fibres and the glue always creeped under the tape, no matter what type of tape I used. Now I bought a can of ea40 because my epoxy wasnt super clear under the glass. ....and I have no more problems with the glue creeping under the tape - and I have a clear glueline.

[Kirkll]

I have a mini hot box. I spoon out the resin and hardener into a paper bowl and throw it in the hot box while I tape and clean lams, veneers, and glass. I use a silicone bondo spreader cut in half. I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.

Try a flexible putty knife some time. It lays it down real thin with very little pressure. The bondo spreader might be your problem. They make hard plastic putty knives too, but I prefer the metal ones because I can sand off any I forget to wipe off the putty knife on occasion.  .02 cents worth.

[Watsonjay]

I have a mini hot box. I spoon out the resin and hardener into a paper bowl and throw it in the hot box while I tape and clean lams, veneers, and glass. I use a silicone bondo spreader cut in half. I am slowly getting better at using less. It is more of a trusting that little amount of glue is good enough. I am slowly getting better.

Try a flexible putty knife some time. It lays it down real thin with very little pressure. The bondo spreader might be your problem. They make hard plastic putty knives too, but I prefer the metal ones because I can sand off any I forget to wipe off the putty knife on occasion.  .02 cents worth.

Thats why I like the spreader. I dont bother cleaning it, just let it dry in the paper bowl with the ea40. After it dries you just flex it and the ea40 pops right off and you use it again.

[Jeb_N]

I tried watsons chisel trick. Super sharp chisel and light light pressure (hardly any) and the tape comes right off. The reason I used tape this time was on some carbon which I didn't want to have to sand at all to get glue off. Thanks for all the tips.

[Jeff tech]

The tape that I mentioned comes off no problem after being in the hot box. This particular green tape specifically the number that is shown is what we use in the body shop when cars went into the paint booth/ bake booth. This green tape is not the same as the other green tapes look at the numbers that I showed in my pictures. And you won't have any problem. Just keep everybody away from your tape so they don't waste it. I leave it on when I lay out my bow with a pattern grind on my Edge sander strike off the fuzzies until I reach my laid out pen marks.