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self bow building tools

Started by bigcountry, April 05, 2008, 08:31:00 AM

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bigcountry

Whats the minimum, I should have?  I know a draw knife, a hand planer, sanding block, sounds like rasps are handy for moving material, round files for nocks, tiller board.  What else?  I see some using band saws, and jigsaws, and very expensive sanders, but don't think I can go that far, right now.  

I am taking a class on building a bow in a month.  They are going to supply the tools.  I am going to take one step at a time and see where this leads me.   Me and wood has never gotten along, but I plan to remedy that.

George Tsoukalas

You could check the builalongs on my site. I basically use a hatchet, drawknife, Surform, Swedish pushkinife and 4 way rasp. I do use a belt sander a  it but beginners should not use power tools until they feel they are no longer beginners. 6 or so bows may be. Jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/

Shaun

Draw knife, farriers rasp or 4 way rasp, scraper, nock file. Vise with padded jaws.

wingnut

It does not take fancy big power tools to build bows.  They just make things happen faster. . .sometimes good things.  LOL

Drawknife, 4 in 1 rasp, cabinet scraper, chainsaw file, tiller board or tree will do everything you need.

Enjoy the journey!!

Mike
Mike Westvang

onemississipp

There are as many different ways to do it.
Depending on how hard you want to work!

I like a drawknife, rasp, and scraper.

Chainsaw file for nocks.

The last one I made, a friend and myself played the role of the tiller tree.

You really just need to find what works for you!

A tool that is a must is something to hold the stave in place while you work on it!

You can build a shavehorse, use a vise, or sit in the chair and put some of those old wrestling leg lock moves on it.
Dustin
_ _ _________________________________ _  _

jared s

I did a thread this week on how I do it with hand tools and limited space. Think it may have dropped down to the second page but look for the Po Boy buildalong.
"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."
Ferris Bueller

bigcountry

Are all drawknifes equal?  I was going to buy a few vintage ones on ****.  I am a vintage type of guy.  I know the new ones are pretty pricey.  

Thanks for all you help.  

I have been studying all the build alongs and reading bowyers TBB vol 1 and seems most have bandsaws and stuff.  I was just wondering if a newbie could get away without them for a few builds.  I will be sure to post some pictures.

tom sawyer

Look for a drawknife that isn't pitted.  8" is penty wide for chasing a ring, sometimes a 10-12" is nice for removing bark and sapwood off a big log.  You'll need an axe, a maul and some wedges if you're splitting your own wood.

I'd suggest a broad hatchet for shaping a blank out of a rough split, a Nicholson patternmakers rasp (#49) for shaping and tillering, and a cabinet scraper to smooth the rasp marks in between rasping sessions and for final tiller adjustment.  Those three tools will get you by nicely.
Lennie aka "Tom Thumbs"
"It is better to give than receive- especially advice."  Mark Twain

bigcountry

Ok, now here is where I don't understand.  I have used a hatchet before, and not really understanding how to use it to rough out a shape?  You would have to be surgical to do it wouldn't ya?  

Or are you guys taking a wack and hammering the hatchet thru a grain?

J.F. Miller

1. a good place to work with a wood vise or something else to hold the workpiece.

2. drawnknife. I wouldn't use a hatchet to make a bow unless my life depended on it.

3. the best rasp you can afford. farriers rasp is large, cumbersome and not very useful for making a bow. they're great if you shoe horses. I've used a pair of Nicholsons(#50, #49) for the last 10 years. great rasps for the money. I recently acquired a hand made rasp from Dean Torges. fellas, this is the only rasp you'll ever need. with a handle on both ends it offers the ultimate in control and comfort. the fine side cuts quickly and effortlessly and doesn't leave behind deep tool marks. the coarse side is vicious and makes quick work of heavy stock removal with minimal effort, and it simply does not clog. see them for yourself at  http://www.bowyersedge.com/stock.html

4. good second-cut file.
 
5. a four inch rattail rasp for nocks. chainsaw file is too long and was made to cut metal. a lousy substitute, imo.

6. cabinet scraper

a hand plane is practially useless for making wooden bows. a toothing plane, however, is quite handy. indispensible if you are preparing glue joints

a bandsaw is a great tool to have for making bows, but not a necessity. well, borderline necessary if you want to make alot of bows or work with board stock. a depth-controlled scraper such as the Bowyer's Edge is nearly indispensible for finessing tiller and precise stock removal. I've used a couple of the knock-offs, and they didn't measure up, imo.

I made my first bow with a chincy drawknife, a cheap 4in1 rasp, paint scraper(careully sharpened), chainsaw file and sandpaper. trust me, the work is much more enjoyable when you have good tools. :-)
"It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled." Mark Twain


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