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sharpening single bevel grizzlys...

Started by beaunaro, March 06, 2016, 02:58:00 PM

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beaunaro

I'm sure this has been asked before, so could someone direct me to the thread or just reiterate?

I've got my Grandson and his 17 year old buddies coming down for a hog hunt. I bought them some 150 grn Grizzly single bevel screw-in heads to use.

Not sure what they have but wanted them to use something good.

Forgot my KME at home, but do have the Simmons sharpener with me.

I'm thinking I need to start with the file, but just not certain.

These look a bit straighter than the ones I got earlier.

Thanks for the help.
Irv Eichorst

I could not figure out how to do it, but I am very sharpening challenged anyway!

Good luck to the kids on their hog hunt!

Bisch

ISP 5353

I am sure some guys here can do it, but I would overnight ship my KME and stones!  Good luck!

Sixgun

Here is the thread I used to instruct me on how to sharpen mine:  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000115

In your situation, without the KME, I'd probably use the sandpaper and a flat tile to lay it on and free hand the bevel. I've been starting at 100 grit and going up from there.

Hope that helps.

Ray
A hunt based only on trophies taken falls far short of what the ultimate goal should be . . . time to commune with your inner soul as you share the outdoors with the birds, animals, and fish that live there.

Fred Bear

newhouse114

If I am sharpening a lot of heads, I like to use a 6" disc sander with 320 grit paper. Then touch up the off side with a ceramic rod.

MnFn

I do most of it with a file then jewel stick
"By the looks of his footprint he must be a big fella"  Marge Gunderson (Fargo)

"Ain't no rock going to take my place". Luke 19:40

meatCKR

For me, consistent angle was the key. My congrats to those that could do that by hand, I never could. So I use the Lansky knife sharpening jig and stones.  Clamp the grizzly in the jaws of the jig all the way to the hosel. Then I check to see which angle will place the stone on the bevel the best - usually it's the 25 degree hole on the jig. Then I work my way through all 4 stones in the kit. I start with the course stone.  Oil up the stone and make 10 passes up and down the bevel. Flip the grizzly over and lay the stone flat against the blade and make a flat stroke up the blade to remove the burr.  Flip over and do another 10 passes and flip to the flat stroke to remove the burr.
I do this 4 times for each stone - Course, Med, Fine and Extra fine.  By the time you are done with that extra fine stone, it will be hair popin' sharp.  Then strop to a mirror shine and Watch out!  Your eyes might bleed just looking at that mirror edge.  Good luck to you.

Steve
"Leave it as it is. You can not improve on it. The ages have been
at work on it, and man can only mar it."
- Theodore Roosevelt upon seeing the Grand Canyon.

screamin

Quote

Forgot my KME at home, but do have the Simmons sharpener with me.

[/QB]
Put it in the Simmons clamp and make a couple swipes on the beveled side with the file. Then the fine hone. Flip it around and very lightly hit the flat side a couple times with the fine hone. Should shave hair after that. If not, repeat till it does but it shouldn't take to much.

J-dog

http://youtu.be/5umxVy7uhLM

Check this out, I'd just use a file but this is a little different twist
Always be stubborn.

Captain hindsight to the rescue!

WESTBROOK

If those are the new Grizzly's that Bill Dunn is making, they wont need much work. The bevels are ground to 25 deg. They will just need smoothed up some.

Tajue17

this is the way I do mine.

file then strop or file then lay edge on cardboard to use that as a strop.

lay the file on the bevel perfectly so its the same degrees as the bevel, you don't want to cut into that bevel.  

go from back to front on the head while its on an arrow, rest your hand that's holding the arrow on your  thigh at the right position so your file hand is perfectly matched to that bevel.  the file will feel like its not doing anything or filing you do not want to remove too much metal just "find the edge" which will happen as long as the file is perfect on that bevel and not digging the front or back of the edge.

do a few passes and check the edge and lightly feel with your thumb for the burrs you want the whole edge to have those burrs that have a slight serrated feel when your thumb checking.

when you feel that just go lighter and lighter with hand pressure on the file passes till your barely even holding the file,,,, the file will feel like its not even cutting anything anymore.

now strop in same direction as file was going,,,both sides. remember you want to just pop those burrs off and that's your edge...  I would take a ceramic rod to it at this point but its should be sharp enough here just check on your thumb finger nail.

also if you take a belt and noose it with the buckle around something that won't move then pull the other end with your left hand you can use that as a strop in a pinch,,,,,,,pullit tight then nailing the belt to a piece of 2x4 works too,, then pull the nails out and the belt is fine except for one new hole    :biglaugh:
"Us vs Them"

beaunaro

Thanks guys,

What I did was inspect the new heads closely and just as someone said, the new heads do not need much work.

Basically I put them in the Simmons jig and just used the ceramic sticks and they got very sharp.

I forgot about stropping them to a mirror finish.

I will try that next.

Thank you , one and all.
Irv Eichorst


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